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Solving Voltage drop. Help


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Posted

all the power your amp(s) use, has to run through that solenoid. every single amp. its probably acting as a bottleneck. maybe, maybe not. food for thought.

Posted

In my 2004 Chevrolet cavalier a high output alt would actually be detrimental (according to the local shops who say that it would lower the amperage output at idle and would put an even larger strain on my battery at low rpm's. i would need to add a second alt with custom mounting brackets)

from what brand? call mechman, im sure he has an alt for your car that outputs decent power.

and there is something pretty wrong if you're dropping into the 9's with that 1200w amp of yours. it didnt even have any woofers hooked up to it, you said.

im thinking there is a/some loose connection somewhere.

Posted

like i said earlier i found out that my local shop sold me cca (copper clad aluminum) which is aluminum wire that looks like copper which added allot of resistance to my circuit and my battery was fried. I drained it to manny times and it would no longer hold a charge so it was also only outputting apriximetly between 10.5-11v

I bought an optima yellow top to replace my fried battery and 0/2 awg wire for my car. I understand a yellow-top is not as good as a kinetik or xs but those audio batt's have poor cca (cold cranking amps) and i live in Canada so.... it was a good alternative

If you have it i would love some contact info for mechman or any other way to get a good alt. i have been hearing about raptor alts also. The local mechanics made it seem like it was impossible to do.

Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid

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