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Solving Voltage drop. Help


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Posted

Ok so i blew my previous amp due to the fact that my voltage had dropped significantly. (alt-14v and at the amp 9v)

Since then i bought a yellow top and removed my 4awg copper clad aluminum wire for 0/2pure copper welding cable and did the big 3. however i want to get my voltage drop as low as possible. i figured that having a cap would help keep my volts at 14.4... i was wrong. modding my alternator is impractical in my car and would cause more harm than good. I could add a second one but would need custom made mounting brackets and a deep wallet (which i don't).(my alt is 105amps)

I was thinking on adding a kinetik khc600 in the rear directly to the distribution block in the rear. would this solve my problem? and if i did that should i keep or remove my cap? i was told by one person to toss it lmao.

Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid

Posted

that little batt?

dude, if you are about to run at .5ohm again or even run that AP3000D @ 1ohm your about to buy you will blow up your stuff again. you need at least an Kinetik HC1800 x 2 (one starteer, one in the trunk) or anoy other quality batt (deka, stinger), big 3 in 1/0 or larger(which you have) and make sure your grounds are good. and that you use good wire such as Rockford or Knukonceptz for example.

and no capacitor. you will be lucky to hold 12volts with that electrical i just stated on 3k. if you want to keep a higher voltage a new alt from singer, DC power, ohio generators, mechman is in order. and most likely another batt such as a group 31 batt like the XSPower D3100 or KinetikHC2700 or whatever it is. then maybe you will hold high 13s. and after all that hard work to run 3k with minimal votage drop you will still be getting dirty power because it is an audiopipe amp.

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Posted

i am willing to be if you were not running that amp at .5 like in the other post you stated that you would have been golden and not had a amp fry from running that low of voltage. But as in your previous topic it seems you know everything and do not like to listen. Good luck

:ninja:

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Posted

audiopipe likes the juice. just so you knwo.

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Posted

what is a continuous duty solenoid?

where is your amp grounded to specifically? is the paint sanded off?

remove the capacitor if your voltage is dropping. all it is in your case, is another load on the electrical system.

Posted

*sigh* my other option was to run it underpowered with an Alpine MRX-M240 D which is 2400w rms. 300w rms under powered for each sub

http://www.ebay.com/itm/390435197634?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649

Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid

Posted

LOL you're gonna run an ap3000 at 1 ohm? or half ohm? thats too funny.

if you want your voltage to not drop as much, get a better amp that isn't cheap as fuck and power hungry

edit: you are aware that for anything like over 2500w, you're in high output alt territory, right?

Posted

what is a continuous duty solenoid?

where is your amp grounded to specifically? is the paint sanded off?

a continuous duty solenoid is also known as a relay isolator. It cuts power to my primary battery while the car is not on so i can listen to my radio. while my car is off and still drive away without being stranded.

The wire is running through a grommet in my wheel well under my car and bolted to my frame. however there is undercoating covering it all now.

The solenoid

i am willing to be if you were not running that amp at .5 like in the other post you stated that you would have been golden and not had a amp fry from running that low of voltage. But as in your previous topic it seems you know everything and do not like to listen. Good luck

:ninja:

i did not even have power to my amps at that time it was a sound storm evolution 5000 and it blew from the low voltage without a load and it was going to be run at 2ohms. i have not run at .5 ohms. it was an idea and wanted to get advice before i went out and bought a .5 ohm stable amp that would be useless if i decided not to run .5 ohm

i would be running the audiopipe at 2ohms as well

and i am trying to get all the info i can before i finish my build. (when i bought these subs i did not realize the amount of work this would be, now i wish i bought 2 kicker l7s and be running 1600w rms. it would be ALLOT cheaper and easier.

Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid

Posted

In my 2004 Chevrolet cavalier a high output alt would actually be detrimental (according to the local shops who say that it would lower the amperage output at idle and would put an even larger strain on my battery at low rpm's. i would need to add a second alt with custom mounting brackets)

Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid

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