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Fi Q 12" Box Design


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Ok, i just ordered my 12" Fi Q sub (Dual 2 ohm) and im lookin to design a box, i'm willing to do anything in ways of box design to get the most out of my sub (i just might need some help in the initial design) and i am curious if i should go with a t-line box or just a regular ported box and what would be the best tuning frequency? Mu max dimensions are 34" wide, 18" long and 16" Tall. Fi suggests a 1.8-2.5 CuFt and tuned to 28-33Hz, should you stick to these numbers and does a larger box mean a lower tuning frequency or does the frequency have to do mainly with the port design. I'm lookin for an accurate boc that will give me good sound qualty but also be able to hit had and low, yeah i know thats askin alot but i wanna get as close to that as possible haha. Thanks a ton for any assistance. :rolleyes:

EDIT: i forgot to add that this is gonna be going in a 1996 Mercury Sable Wagon

Edited by MusicJunkie

1996 Mercury Sable Stationwagon

- Infinity Kappa 682.7 cf's front and back

- Alpine Pdx-4.100

- Hifonics Txi 1008D

- Fi 12" Q, ported at 33Hz

- Kicker distribution hardware

- (1) Kicker 4 gauge run

Plans....

- Sound Processor (Rockford 3sixty.2 or MTX)

- Dynamat

- another Fi Q 12

- H/O alternator

- Aftermarket Headunit

- Component set for upfront

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T-Line's are awesome, have yet to hear one but I've seen what they can do to some Audiobahn 6" 1/2's Mid's. I can't find the video but they sounded like 15's.

Only downside is they take up more space than a traditional ported.

I'm going to make my T-Line as soon as I can get my hands on the building materials.

Usually a Larger box means lower frequency tuning, but don't quote me on that because I'm a noob.

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Ok, i just ordered my 12" Fi Q sub (Dual 2 ohm) Congrats and im lookin to design a box, i'm willing to do anything in ways of box design to get the most out of my sub (i just might need some help in the initial design) and i am curious if i should go with a t-line box or just a regular ported box and what would be the best tuning frequency? Ported box, t-lines are hard to make and dont always sound like you anticipated. Many people on this forum have experience with 12" fi q's in ported boxes, thus u should do 2.5cuft after displacement tuned to 32hz. My max dimensions are 34" wide, 18" long and 16" Tall. Fi suggests a 1.8-2.5 CuFt and tuned to 28-33Hz, should you stick to these numbers Yes, most of the time and does a larger box mean a lower tuning frequency No, not neccessarily or does the frequency have to do mainly with the port design. Exactly, the port diameter and length I'm lookin for an accurate boc that will give me good sound qualty but also be able to hit had and low (SQL), yeah i know thats askin alot but i wanna get as close to that as possible haha. Its not that much to ask alot of us want really loud daily drivers Thanks a ton for any assistance. :rolleyes:

EDIT: i forgot to add that this is gonna be going in a 1996 Mercury Sable Wagon

http://www.subwoofertools.com/forum/ported...mp;Fs=&CE=0

this box is pretty much going to be as loud as ur going to get the q without loosing sound quality. I would tune anywhere from 30-33 hz with that sub

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Ok this is a really noob question but what does tuning your box do for ur sound, i'm guessing it allows you to go lower and it ive read that it has to do with pressure on the outside and inside of the box. to build this box should i cut the hole for the sub before or after it is built and how should i run the wires to the amp (cant u just use bolts as terminals). And what type of screws and glue should i use? im planning on using 3/4" MDF.

1996 Mercury Sable Stationwagon

- Infinity Kappa 682.7 cf's front and back

- Alpine Pdx-4.100

- Hifonics Txi 1008D

- Fi 12" Q, ported at 33Hz

- Kicker distribution hardware

- (1) Kicker 4 gauge run

Plans....

- Sound Processor (Rockford 3sixty.2 or MTX)

- Dynamat

- another Fi Q 12

- H/O alternator

- Aftermarket Headunit

- Component set for upfront

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Ok this is a really noob question but what does tuning your box do for ur sound, example: if you tune to 30hz, you can hit alot of notes well, if you tune to 50 you can hit notes 50 and higher well i'm guessing it allows you to go lower and it ive read that it has to do with pressure on the outside and inside of the box. the ports diameter and length determine its tune frequency to build this box should i cut the hole for the sub before or after it is built depends on if its mounted on the same side as port or different, if same side id wait til its made and how should i run the wires to the amp (cant u just use bolts as terminals). yes, or run the wires thru the port, or drill holes the size of the wire and caulk around it And what type of screws and glue should i use? 2" coarse thread drywall screws, titebond original/II im planning on using 3/4" MDF. you should always use 3/4 unless your dealing with woofers smaller than 8"
Edited by decafcappucino

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wow i should have paid attention to the tips on the forum, i went to lowes to get the wood today and i thought what the hell might as well have em cut it. well the proceeded to cut it and when i later measured it they were all off by at least a quarter of an inch....fuck

1996 Mercury Sable Stationwagon

- Infinity Kappa 682.7 cf's front and back

- Alpine Pdx-4.100

- Hifonics Txi 1008D

- Fi 12" Q, ported at 33Hz

- Kicker distribution hardware

- (1) Kicker 4 gauge run

Plans....

- Sound Processor (Rockford 3sixty.2 or MTX)

- Dynamat

- another Fi Q 12

- H/O alternator

- Aftermarket Headunit

- Component set for upfront

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