Mobileaudio25 Posted April 16, 2013 Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 I dont run full tilt at idle for the sake of my amplifiers, so I'm talking strictly competition. This past Sunday I went to a local comp and competed in the trunk 1 class. Came in second place in SPL with a 145.0 Im running 4k rms on my 2 DD3512's and after about 5 seconds of play at full tilt i can drop to about 11.8v. That score was also at bottom idle, I dont have a tach so i couldnt run my rpms to 2k.... Do you think upgrading from a 180 amp to a 220 amp alt would make a difference in my score? Im also going to be adding a cheap sunpro tach for competition purposes... thanks, Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
337Kerweezy51 Posted April 16, 2013 Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 most definetly. My stock 105 alternator couldn't handle my t-1000. I upgraded to the 150 and it was night and day. I had a DD M3 on it with an upgraded battery and the big 3 done and I dropped to 13 volts at the most. Vehicle: 2001 Chevy 1500 Radio: Pioneer Coaxials: Rockford punch 6.5"s and 4x6's Subs:Skar VVX 10's (dual 2) Sub Amp: DD M3A Wire:Raptor 4 Gauge Electrical:150 amp alt, big 3, reg. batt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mobileaudio25 Posted April 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 Have any idea what I could gain? You think it would be less than 1 db? I'm assuming its going to be a significant about of power loss being a voltage drop of almost 3v? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
337Kerweezy51 Posted April 16, 2013 Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 Have any idea what I could gain? You think it would be less than 1 db? I'm assuming its going to be a significant about of power loss being a voltage drop of almost 3v? You lose almost a 3rd of your amps power when you drop that low. if you upgrade to the bigger alternator, I don't see why you couldn't gain a db or a db and a half. Vehicle: 2001 Chevy 1500 Radio: Pioneer Coaxials: Rockford punch 6.5"s and 4x6's Subs:Skar VVX 10's (dual 2) Sub Amp: DD M3A Wire:Raptor 4 Gauge Electrical:150 amp alt, big 3, reg. batt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carbon Posted April 16, 2013 Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 Honestly man. You cant go wrong when your beefing up electrical Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrClean636 Posted April 16, 2013 Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 If you are worried about idle amperage, getting a larger alternator might not fix that problem. Many alternators, the bigger you go, allow you to achieve higher amperage outputs at about 2k rpm. However, the larger alts are MAINLY focused on achieving just that. The smaller amperage alternators (even from the same company) are generally rated for more power at lower rpm speeds, such as idle, when compared to the higher amperage units. So no, getting a larger alternator will not indefinitely fix your amperage/voltage problem at idle. Car: 2011 Ford Taurus SEL / Alt: DC Power 270XP (Will be here 7/17!!!) Deck: Pioneer AVIC-Z140BH / Amps: (1) DC 5.0k, (1) RF T400-2 Speaks: RF T2652-S 6.5" and RF T1692 6x9" Subs: (2) DC XLm2 15's / Batts: (2) XS XP3000's Wiring: Kolossus Fleks Kable 1/0 (2 runs) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mobileaudio25 Posted April 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 I'm running one xs power 1200, and 2 group 34 Dekas with 0ga knu wiring with the big 3 upgrade. What do you think the chances are going from a 180alt to a 220 alt and being around 14.0 at 2k rpm? On 4krms and a small 200w 4ch. Keep in mind that 11.8 drop was at dead idle with a smaller pulley and a 180 amp alt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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