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How does this enclosure look? First time torres build. 10 cubes


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Posted

First box build so i'm trying to make sure i got everything right.

Just an experiment box but if all goes good i'll use it or modify it and test until results are achieved!

Yes i'm trying to go for lows with some good air flow ;)

10 cubes net made it a bit bigger because i don't know how to calculate bracing for 45's.

Torres says to cut the front and back both to 45 inches? Do i just cut off 9 inches for the ports width?

is 9 inches too wide? It's pretty big but with an l shape i'm sure the woofers air closest to the port would hit the "L" board.

157.5 sq in of port? ^_^

Is it ok to use the slot port length? It would be just one board 23.25 inches long.

For two fifteen type r's. I'll adjust my filters carefully and gain down to lose some power for the amount of cubic feet.

Just want to know if it'll work.

Don't bash on me, Please. toresultimate.png

Everyone has to start somewhere.

Thank you!

Posted

With the front baffle being 1.5 inches thick that brings the cubes right around 10.

Add 3/4 inch 45's just put 0.3 bracing displacement, Not sure..

Only problem i can see if the port length not being long enough.. 24 inches of port, 1.5 inch baffle, around 9 inches from the back of the box? Should this gap be smaller around 4.5? Half the width of the port? Or doesn't it really matter? Ugh i'm getting a headache :D

Posted

your port is going to suffer on efficiency the way it is now. try to get your port as close to a square volume as possible. this will give the port less contact area to the building material of the enclosure, therefore decreasing air resistance on the box material and increasing the port efficiency, therefore increasing the overall efficiency of the port and positively impacting the performance and efficiency of your sub stage.

Owner of BigAss Ports

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Posted

Trying to figure this out. The girlfriends father is being kind enough to let me use his table saw and everything else i'll need this weekend.

The box is going to be coated with a smooth layer of fiberglass resin, 45's in the corners, Rounded port, Titebond 3 wood glue and drywall screws pre-drilled and countersunk.

It's being built right.

it's just my first box build and with this one i'm looking to hit some lows,

Current prefabs hit lows and flex everything to hell but it sounds like they are being choked to death and it's not really sound coming from the woofers it's just like they are moving and moving the van with them and in the current seperate prefabs the subs and port are facing the side of the van and the subs have like 2" on each side before the sidewall but the ports have 9" of room.

So a no go on that wide of a port? Trying to figure out what is considered too wide for a slot port.

I've been searching and studying everything i can and people are saying smaller port for lows? I've tried so many different options..

Smaller port width but add to the length i'm afraid the L part of the length will get in the way of the type r's and any smaller width i'll lose a lot SQ in of port and i'd like around 15 per CF.

If i do just the slot port without the L would it be ok to have subs up port back facing the rear of the van? With the subs mounted on the top torwards the same side as the port face?

So they are furthest away from the port. UGH this is terrible..

Just need someone who can tell me that 10 cubes isn't too big and it'll make them wang.

Alpine recommends like 3 cubes max ported per 15 and everyone says 5-6 cubes per sub for BOOM BOOM..

Posted

Or he's a box longer port length 10 cubes net after displacements which will raise tuning to 29-30hz subs up port back enough sq inch of port area.

Subs up port back ok with L slots? ( I don't know how subwoofers affect the port if it's just put um in and all is well or will the L shape port block air waves? FML..

reaudio.png

Posted

Sure as hell don't know how i would build a 10 cubes box tuned around 26-34 with around 15 sq inch of port with the port facing the hatch on the bottom side of the box.. Heard that's good i just don't know a program that could give me a picture for a mental image of what it'll look like and inside the box also if someone could sketch one up for me with cut sheet? Would you just cut out (For example) 5 inches wide 22 inches long on the sheet of mdf then make the port outside the box (Glue and nails??) then assemble it to the sheet of mdf where the kinda rectangle shape cut is with glue and nails or whatever? Brad nailer. It looks more complicated then an l port.

Can someone sketch something up for me or something? I'll never get it right :(

Posted

Think i might go with this design and be done with it... Width over depth port width 8 inches plus the length of the L 10 inches that's 18 inches into the box width wise leaving me with 30 inches and i'll mount the subwoofers side by side in the corner where i have the two black dots... If you see a potential problem let me know if not i guess it's build and test and commit suicide if all goes wrong! Haha!

newreaudio.png

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