cuetip Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 did you do the big 3 correctly, i have done it on pretty much every car i have had, and i have never seen a decrease in voltage like you are seeing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getgcs Posted July 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 did you do the big 3 correctly, i have done it on pretty much every car i have had, and i have never seen a decrease in voltage like you are seeing I hope so.. did you read my posts? with a history like that it would be greatly appreciated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getgcs Posted July 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 I'm not fusing alt to battery.. I just care about the one fuse i have right now which protects the system. Now thanks very much for your help and I have 2 last questions. 1. what exactly will happen if I add my stock non gel type battery to my system when I have a yellow top gel type already installed? 2. how much voltage drop prevention could there possibly be gained from hammering versus soldering? right now at idle its at 13.5-13.4 and when I crank it it can drop to 12.6v. At 2k rpm it is at 13.6v and can drop to 12.8v Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walwalka Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 First you shouldn't put a wet cell battery inside the cabin of the vehicle, the battery omits toxic fumes. Honestly when you have more than one battery they should be of the same type so they charge the same way. You could be losing voltage to start with a hammered on connector, could also be causing shorts between the terminal and the wire which can kill anything that is connected to that piece of wire. Thus is why you need to fuse that alt pos to battery pos, among other reasons like fire because of your poor connections. 2010 Honda Civic LX / Deck: Kenwood DDX371 / Front Highs: Crescendo RTS-1 / Front Mids: Silver Flute 6.5's / 4 channel: DC Audio 90.4 / Sub: Fi 15in SP4v2 / Sub amp: Taramps HD 5000 / Power wire: Knukonceptz OFC 1/0 / Deadener: Audio Technix 60 mil / Batteries: XS Power D5100R / Rear bank: TBD / Alternator: Singer 240a hairpin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getgcs Posted July 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 First you shouldn't put a wet cell battery inside the cabin of the vehicle, the battery omits toxic fumes. Honestly when you have more than one battery they should be of the same type so they charge the same way. You could be losing voltage to start with a hammered on connector, could also be causing shorts between the terminal and the wire which can kill anything that is connected to that piece of wire. Thus is why you need to fuse that alt pos to battery pos, among other reasons like fire because of your poor connections. I didn't realize hammered on connections would cause these issues thanks so much.. and what if I put the battery under the hood.. even though they charge differently what problems will happen? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walwalka Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 What battery is the gel cell? 2010 Honda Civic LX / Deck: Kenwood DDX371 / Front Highs: Crescendo RTS-1 / Front Mids: Silver Flute 6.5's / 4 channel: DC Audio 90.4 / Sub: Fi 15in SP4v2 / Sub amp: Taramps HD 5000 / Power wire: Knukonceptz OFC 1/0 / Deadener: Audio Technix 60 mil / Batteries: XS Power D5100R / Rear bank: TBD / Alternator: Singer 240a hairpin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getgcs Posted July 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 What battery is the gel cell? optima yellow top why? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walwalka Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 Yes you could run that in the trunk with the other battery, with running a battery in the cabin certain things have to done just right. Like your termination on the power wires and the ground need to be solid. Terminals either need to be soldered on properly or crimped with a hydraulic crimper. Ground should either be bolted to a solid part of the unibody/frame, or a separate ground ran back to the front battery. 2010 Honda Civic LX / Deck: Kenwood DDX371 / Front Highs: Crescendo RTS-1 / Front Mids: Silver Flute 6.5's / 4 channel: DC Audio 90.4 / Sub: Fi 15in SP4v2 / Sub amp: Taramps HD 5000 / Power wire: Knukonceptz OFC 1/0 / Deadener: Audio Technix 60 mil / Batteries: XS Power D5100R / Rear bank: TBD / Alternator: Singer 240a hairpin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trey_Dog650 Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 I didn't read it all but saw you hammered your terminals on the wire? And spliced factory wires? That's probably your problem right there 13 Kia Forte Build! 07 Hyundai Accent Build ***Super Seller*** N8ball2013 And then he gets to say ok all you guys were right. im sorry for being a dummy poo poo head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getgcs Posted July 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 Yes you could run that in the trunk with the other battery, with running a battery in the cabin certain things have to done just right. Like your termination on the power wires and the ground need to be solid. Terminals either need to be soldered on properly or crimped with a hydraulic crimper. Ground should either be bolted to a solid part of the unibody/frame, or a separate ground ran back to the front battery. I am going to take this in consideration nd change all of the terminals but one last thing.. why would a hydraulic crimper suffice but hammering them on like crazy wouldn't? I can understand the soldering method working much better but...Thanks very much Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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