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Found 30 results

  1. Im getting a new charger soon, the one i have now charger my batt at 2amps. The new charget would charge my battery at 3.5amps, i have a kinetik 2400 would the new charger with 3.5a be too much or will it be fine.
  2. Hello guys, I need your help. Maybe anyone of you has any experience with this issue or Bit One configs. The thing is that I have wired my Bit One and it does receive 12 volts from the battery, but it doesn't power up. What I've tried: - My friend has a Bit One, I tried replacing his with mine and it didn't work, while his does. - Tried a different DRC and manually powering it on - Hooking it up to the battery What I haven't done yet: - Connect it to a laptop with USB to see if it turns on (haven't tried because I am not ready to tune it yet as I've just only wired it) Things I'm unsure of: - Is it possible that a config causes this issue? (probably not as it should turn on when it's hooked up straight to the battery I'm guessing) - Is it possible that, because my Bit One hasn't been powered on for half a year, perhaps it needs to be 'charged' Anyone, please help me! Edit: could it be that it just turns on when it senses an audio signal?
  3. The purpose of this thread is to post the devices that allow you to adjust the engine rpm (for instance, to 2000-3000rpm for demos/competing). Also to discuss ways to adjust the low idle rpm (like from 690 to 800 for example). Also known as: Rev Limiters Idle Adjusters Idle adjustment (ECU programming) Throttle Position Settings *** Some reasons why you might want to do low or high adjustments? Its not just for audio: -journeyman weld trucks -to produce more heat in a cab during winter -demoing/competing -lopey camshaft or engine tuning So, other than using your foot, what electronic program or manual adjuster are you using to set your engine rpm? And/or what are you doing for adjusting daily low range idle?
  4. A while back, I posted a thread about ways to use an amp with a maximum of 2 volts gain amp with a modern 4v head unit. It occurred to me today that I could simply use one of the most basic electronic circuits ever: two resistors in series to drop the 4v RCA preout to a 2v one. Would this work in practice? I can't think of a reason it wouldn't, but I figured I'd ask anyway. The process I would use is detailed here: http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/How-to-reduce-voltage-with-resistors.php
  5. Hi, im new to this forum and i am from mexico so my english is no very good I have a jeep liberty 2004 3.7 v6 engine and i have a 1200 rms 15 inch sub wired to a 1500 rms amp and 2 re audio 4 channel amps the peak power of these is 1600 watts peak, under the hood i got a optima yellow top and i wanna put a xs power xp950 in the trunk but i have a stock alt i think is in the 130 . 140 amp range and i have the BIG 3 Is my stock alt good or should i upgrade it my voltage with the engine running is always between 14.4 and 13.7 Thanks to everyone
  6. Hi, I have a car in which I did a car audio install but I did not want to replace the factory nav/radio so I bought a Fiio e17k Alpen 2, a portable DAC/AMP. I'm using my phone as source connected via usb so it uses the fiio's DAC instead of the phones. The Fiio has a line in/out connection in which I used a 3.5mm splitter to connect an aux cable to the factory radio and another rca cable to connect to the amplifier. My sub has only rca inputs (Hifonics BE2500.1D) so I'm assuming it only takes low level signal and no speaker level signal. Is there any way to tell whether the line out on the fiio e17k is sending low level or high level signal? I tested it with the hifonics amp gains at 1,500 watts and it sounds very nice and clean but I have no way of knowing if the amp internals are being damaged. Any help would be appreciated.
  7. Electrical: 130 amp alt 4 gauge big 3 70ah agm under the hood 1 run of 2/0 welding wire to the back 110ah kinetic hc2400 in the back with 2/0 welding ground lead 1/0 KFC sky high wire to the amp System: Ct sounds 3000.1 4 Sundown SA 15 wired to 1 ohm So the first 2 weeks were fine going full tilt nothing weird then. About a week ago I noticed after full tilt the subs were a lil warm and seemed like they smelled a lil. At about the same time I noticed my voltage immediately dropping to 12.3 or lower from 14.7. Rarely dropping below 12.0. Could it be that I don't have enough voltage and it's causing the amp to heat the subs up faster than it should. I also notice when I'm driving that voltage doesn't drop as low of course but it's also a lot louder and they don't seem to get warm at all. Could it be that my alternator isn't enough or is going out and the voltage is being a bigger issue than it seems? Side note I have a 240amp on the way no matter what.
  8. I have voltage issues in my Altima. Tell me if this sounds familiar…. The voltage in my Altima varies whenever I'm driving…its drops to as low as 10.9V and only as high as 13.4V. It varies even when I'm not listening to music, just not as bad as when I'm listening full tilt. I have stock alternator (which I believe is 180 Amp) and stock battery and an RF R1200 and an RF R400 amp installed. The voltage jumps all over the place (computer controlled I guess) and doesn’t stay constant. Will a new higher output alternator fix that computer controlled nonsense as well as provide the power I need? Or can I "fix" this with new battery under hood and/or battery in trunk? Need suggestions before I spend !! $$$$
  9. I am hoping there is a simple answer for my question. I have 2 hds312's powered by 2 ct sounds 1400.1 at 2 ohms, 3 pairs of soundqubed pro audio mids powered by an 800.4 MB Quartz 2 pairs of crescendo ft1's powered by a MB Quartz 200.2. 3 odyssey pc1700 in the trunk a yellow top up front and 200 amp alternator. however when i am playing my music i am taking some serious voltage hits as bad as 1.8 at that point i let up on the knob. Any ideas as to why? Everything is ran with 0 gauge cable. I am at a wits end any assistance would be highly appreciated. i also tuned everything with a DD1 as well. not sure if it matters but i am running the Japanese version of a DEH80 prs as far as my head unit goes
  10. okay so ive done a few systems but never past 1200 watts. now im helping my friend put in a sundown audio SAZ-1500D amp to push a DC audio 1000 rms 2000 peak 1 ohm dvc 18. and i just feel like his stock alternator (07 jeep liberty not sure on its amps) isnt going too be able to power all that. so im wondering where i should go with it i also have a 1 farad digital cap to help as a second battery. but if i do but in a bigger alt in is there anything i should watch for, as in big 3, and keeping the voltage at the amp around i think its 13 or 14.5 volts so that the sub can reach its full rms from the amp. i hear that a bigger alt can mess things up too, i want to know what all i should take in account for.
  11. So I just got a SAZ-1200d and to go along with it (although possibly not needed) i was going to get a high output alternator to keep it going strong even at idle. Now i was going to go ahead and probably get the 240 amp alt from mechman. I know this is obviously more than needed for this amp but in a hobby drivin by upgrades i figure it will give me some room to expand. Now the question is, as of right now my big three is in 4 gauge sky high, is it okay to use a smaller amp fuse than what the alt is rated for (until i get a bigger amp later) since the 1200d only draws ~120 amps? Thanks in advance! Greg
  12. Specs are in my sig. When my bass hits at full tilt or a little below (any frequency), my voltage meter jumps around constantly, never staying at one reading for enough time to even read the numbers. This only happens when the bass hits. Heater, A/C, headlights, etc. all use a steady amount of voltage. I thought this was normal, but my friends does not do it nearly this bad. The meter is an XScorpion, I have seen these meters in several setups and have never seen one jump around this much. Someone said it had something to do with the amps unregulated power supply maybe? I seem to be maintaining around 13.8v as far as I can see, never dips into the 12's. Any ideas anyone? If necessary, I can probably post a video tomorrow.
  13. was wondering how accurate is reading voltage from a DMM ? its one of those autozone 20 bucks multimeter im still saving some money to get some good volt meters was wondering if i could connect a DMM to the amp and just use it as a volt meter for now
  14. hello everyone. I recently had a small short out under my hood. The fuse holder in-between my front and rear batteries came in contact with the battery tray. Shorting out. melted the fuse holder into a ball of goo. luckally it put itself out from all the melting rubber from the 0 gauage cable. Now, all i have done is.. cut off the section of burnt cable and replace the fuse holder. But now i have voltage problems. I used to only drop to 13.1v before the misshap. Now i have drops to 11.1v all the time. sometimes even drop to 10.5v whitch shuts my amp down putting it into protection mode. boo. this is what i have. DC power alt 320amp, 2 kinetik hc800 under hood, 2 kinetik hc2400b in the trunk. rockford fosgate 0 gauge cable(one run front to back + side) grounded to the uni-body. Amp is a MA Audio HK4000D pushing two 15" RE Audio XXX. So, My question is... Is my once burnt cable possibly the problem? Or maybe a cell went bad? or both? How and where can i get these batteries tested? Auto zone test is not accurate.
  15. Hey Guys, Before I start I want to thank everybody for taking the time to check this out. I hate resorting to populating a forum with my problems but in this case, I seem to be at a loss. I have searched both the forum and Google tirelessly with no reward so I decided to make this account strictly for this issue because I feel this place has the most educated users. I apologize in advance, I don't know how much I'll be able to contribute to this forum. Let it be known that I have found others with my problem that have participated in lengthy discussion about this issue with no results. However, I feel the host wasn't willing to go to the full extent that I am to solve this issue. I'll work with y'all if you work with me. THE PROBLEM: Whether I am idling or driving, my subwoofers (both) will briefly cut out on powerful bass notes. The problem can be fixed (sorta) if I lower the bass level on my LOC. While this may be a temporary fix, I feel it is just a band-aid to a bigger issue. The amplifier does not go into protect mode, nor does it turn off. The LOC does not display [MAX SIGNAL]. The bass from the speakers continues to play. The issue is isolated at the woofer setup. My gain on the amp is at 0 as well as my bass boost. The subwoofers play respectably but my old Type R's were more impressive (laughable, I know). The excursion of the woofers is not the least bit concerning so I know they aren't being overpowered. They should have a lot more power in them. *Also, I previously had a single 1 OHM DVC woofer in my vehicle that had the same issue. The subwoofers are not bad, I know that much. MY SETUP: Amplifier - Alpine MRP M2000 (Stable at 2 OHMS) / Woofers - 12" FI SSD 2 OHM DVC x2 / LOC - AudioControl LC2 / Wiring - 0 Gauge KnuKonceptz / Headunit - Stock / Speakers - Stock / Battery - Stock / Alternator - Stock / Big 3 - No I have it grounded to the trunk brace (not directly the frame but it's solid and sanded). I will not resort to a capacitor because I don't believe in them. A new battery and the Big 3 could help but others I've seen with this issue have tried both to no avail. I hope I haven't left anything out. I'm determined to kill this issue in this thread. Thanks again for all the help. If you guys need more info/pics/videos just let me know. Thank you.
  16. Hey guys, I have a question. Now, I am here to learn, so don't flame me please. If I did something wrong, just let me know. But, from what I've seen on YouTube and how to "clamp test" your amp for RMS power, I did everything correct, or at least I think I did. I clamped the + speaker wire with clamp meter and measured AC Volts, put my DMM leads into the other set of speaker terminals to measure load. I came up with 48.5 volts and around 13.5ohms. This comes out to around 645. Now, I know this isn't dead balls accurate, but we aren't even in the same ballpark as 2200 watts. I wasn't expecting to get that much, but 645? The other formula i used was to this: AC Volts/AC Current = Impendance then take AC Volts squared/Impedance and I get around 670 watts plus or minus a few. Why are my numbers so low? Is this normal? Just doesn't seem correct... I know I'm getting the power to my subs, as they are banging. There is no way i'm only giving my subs 325 watts each... My recorded impedance was 3.55 and I have my amp wired at 1ohm... What's up? Can someone explain this to me? I really would like to learn more about this. I'm also about the strap another 2200.1D and I want to make sure my electrical is on the up and up. Any help/advise is always appreciated.
  17. Hey guys, I'm a noob on the rise (at least I like to think), but I've never run over 2K watts RMS in any of my systems, until now. I currently am running a Q2200.1 and a Kenwood Excelon XR400-4. I just bought and received a SoundQubed Q4-120, 4 AudioQue 6x9's, and a set of SQ's SuperTweets. I haven't installed any of the new gear yet, but I would like to install a set of the 6x9's for a little added mid bass and the SuperTweets for sure. As far as installed speakers, I have (2) SoundQubed HDS3 12's, Pair of Infinity Kappa 6.5 components, and a pair of Kappa 6x9's. My goal is to buy another Q2200.1 and strap it to my existing. I want to run a pair of HDC3 12's and push them to their max. I know I will need availability to 400amps just for those two amps. Now add in my Kenwood (which is probably another 70amps) and if I install the SoundQubed Q4-120 which is 80amps, I will definitely need a second run of 1/0. Sorry for the long post, but I want to be thorough upfront... As far as electrical is concerned now, I have a MechMan 240amp HO alt and (3) H6 AutoZone Platinum's with around 210amp hours, that are holding up excellent so far. I have one run of 1/0 from the front battery to the (2) rear batteries. My question is, would it be best to fabricate some sort of bus bar out of 1/4"x2" flat bar and make all connections there with a second run of 1/0 from front to back? Or just do another run of 1/0 from front to rear battery bank and call it good? Also, do I need to do second runs of 1/0 on the batteries to keep them in a parallel configuration (run another set of 1/0 wires from + to + and - to - ?) Any help with my wiring will be greatly appreciated! I need my wiring to be spot on as all you guys know. If I do this, I will have over 5500RMS and I would like to know if everything is safe. Thanks and once again, sorry for the long ass post!
  18. has any one ever used regular solid stranded 1/0 or 2/0 electrical wire as power or ground instead of Multi-strand wire i know regular wire is harder to mold into shape and terminate but could it be use for jumping battery to battery or frame to batt / alt to batt what would be the neg/pos less current and amperage? bad connections? btw im a electrician so i have alot of 2/0 a laying a round. i was thinking about beefing up my grounds frame to rear batt any ideas thanks
  19. Good morning everyone. I'm posting this because I was up until 2am diagnosing a voltage drop problem, after installing my additional battery bank (2 Advanced AutoParts Platinum AGM's, 2 in rear, 1 up front). After installing the bank, I went from 13.8 volts at idle, to 13.4. I was scratching my head saying WTF??? Now, my voltage drop steadied out drastically, but I still lost a critical .4 volts somewhere. I want it back! What happened??? Well, I checked all my grounds in the rear. One from negative battery post of one battery straight to amp. Another from same negative battery post to chassis. All good! Move to the front of my car to check what I thought was my Big 3, or 4 in my case. Checked the Chassis to Negative battery post, Good. Checked Alt to Bat Positive, Good. Checked Alt casing to battery negative, Good. I thought this would suffice as an Engine to Chassis ground, as it was tied into the same ground wire that came from my chassis. MAN WAS I WRONG!!!! I FINALLY located the braided wire that went from the top of my engine block to the chassis. I added a 12" piece of 1/0 OFC from engine block ground, straight to the strut tower. BAM!!! SOCK!!! BOOM!!! (Remember the old Batman episodes? Some may be to young to remember. Anyway, off point now. Damn ADHD!), my voltage immediately came up from 13.45 to 13.9! I gained .45 volts with the addition of that one wire! HELL TO THE YEAH!!!! Now, I will be adding a second ground in the rear from the second battery in the bank, to the chassis. That battery has no grounds coming off it, so I will give it a dedicated ground as well. Maybe I can gain another 1/10th or .2 and finally get my voltage over 14? I will be back later to confirm my results... Just thought I would post this to reiterate the IMPORTANCE of proper grounding. Everyone, myself included, is always concerned about POWER POWER POWER, while proper grounding always takes a backseat in our heads. At least it does in mine, and I am being brutally honest right now. I have now learned that your grounds are just as, if not more important than the actual positive runs in the car. I can't stress enough how important is to ground properly people. If this helps at least one person out there, then I'm glad I took the time to post this. Good luck out there!
  20. Hey guys, i bought a h/o alt from ebay cause it was $220 shipped to my door and it did 250 amps, I want it to charge 15.5 volts, so i can have better wattage at my amps, and not mess up my stock electrical. Any ideas? i drive a 07 gmc 2500hd classic body with the 6.0L (gas) http://www.ebay.com/itm/HIGH-OUTPUT-250AMP-ALTERNATOR-CHEVROLET-AVALANCHE-5-3L-03-04-/280918910989?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2007%7CMake%3AGMC%7CModel%3ASierra+2500+HD%7CSubmodel%3AClassic+SLE%7CEngine+-+Liter_Display%3A6.0L&hash=item416812680d&vxp=mtr
  21. We just did a huge production run of our popular adjustable voltage boost module so that we could run a 25% off SALE !! Now you can have control over your charging voltage for just $75 !! For those of you who don't know, the AVBM is a simple module that installs in 5 minutes, plugs in between the alternator and OEM alternator harness. It has a dial in it, so that you can easily adjust your vehicle's charging voltage from 14.0 to 19.5 volts by simply turning a dial !! This unit will work on stock or aftermarket alternators, as long as an OEM type internal regulator is in the alternator. Compatible with 12V, 14V or 16v batteries. (Make sure you check with your vehicle manufacturer and equipment providers to determine what a safe charging voltage is for your vehicle)We currently offer 3 different models: AVBMOVAL - Fits Most 1996-2004 GM vehicles with oval 4 pin plug on the alternator (CS130D, AD244, AD237, Bosche, Valeo, etc...) AVBMRECT - Fits Most 1986-1995 GM vehicles with rectangular 4 pin plug on the alternator (CS130, CS121, CS144, etc...) AVBM6G - Fits most Ford Powerstrokes and other Ford Vehicles with non-PCM controlled 6G alternator (call for application details) For $75, this is a really cool part, and can immediately improve the state of charge on your batteries, amplifier performance, power window speed, headlight brightness, etc... Just give us a call to get one on the way! 1-888-MECHMAN 865-522-6166 [email protected] The AVBMOVAL is currently listed on E-bay here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Adjustable-voltage-boost-module-regulator-AVBM-02-03-04-Suburban-Tahoe-5-3-6-0-/221178819593?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item337f48f409&vxp=mtr Video of how it works here:
  22. So I have been trouble shooting reasons my amp shuts off on some songs and I have been looking at everything wondering why I keeps going off. I started looking at my voltage and have stumbled on a voltage "loss" between the battery/alternator and the amplifiers so this might be my problem with the amp. My electrical: All wire is KnuKonceptz KCA Kable -200 amp high output alternator with a 14.5 volt set point. -1/0 gauge to the battery with 200 amp inline fuse holder (1ft.). -Duralast Gold 780 cold cranking amps battery. -1/0 gauge with 200 amp inline fuse holder to the rear of the car (12ft.). -Distribution block (1/0 gauge to 4 gauge) with 150 amp fuse. -4 gauge to amp (1.5ft.). -(3) 1/0 gauge ground runs from the battery to chassis, engine block, and alternator (All about 2-3ft.). -1/0 gauge ground to distribution block (1/0 gauge to 4 gauge) -4 gauge to amp (1.5ft.) *The voltage at the alternator and battery was identical no matter the circumstance so that connection is fine. * I have triple checked all my connections including grounds, fuses, and at the amp. I played a 60Hz tone all the way up at idle and the voltage at the battery/alt was 13.95, at the amp it was 12.65. I have loss somehow but I have no idea how of were it could be. I want to get a kinetic HC 600 battery with high quality fuse holders to put next to the amp but will this fix the voltage loss? Any information would be great!!
  23. I think we all can agree that car audio, or anything to do with audio or electronics, can be the most frustrating things to discuss with other people due to the difficulty of understanding and conceptualizing electricity and electronics. In short, there are a lot of ignorant and arrogant people out there who claim a lot of bulls**t to be true yet there are also people who really do know what they are talking about. The trouble is going through all the trolling and blabbering to decipher who really is speaking the truth. To me, the best way to approach this is to first take a step back, and then look at the science, or math. I am a student majoring in Electrical Engineering and I do not know everything. I do though know enough to ask some questions. (Sorry for the monologue introduction. I am venting from the hours of scouring the internet for answers and only finding ignorant arrogant trolls.) SOOOOO, my question for this topic: What is the true electrical limit for a system? I know that the alternator supplies most of the electrical power to the car, while the car is running. When the car is not running, the electrical power is coming from the battery. So: If the car is running wouldn't the only electrical limit be the amount of amps that the alternator can produce? I am asking because there are quite a few people who say just to upgrade the battery or add a battery. How would that help if the car is running? For example: I have a 2007 Ford Fusion. The battery is a Die Hard Gold. The stock alternator is 150 Amps. I am assuming that is peak amps at a high rpm (not sure specifically what rpm). I am also guessing and figured that the car's basic electronic needs (like the computer, fuel injector, and other important electrical components) will need about have of the alternator's rating, so about 75 amps which is about 1100W while the car is running (14.5V). Let me know if this sounds flat out wrong. I want to get 2 SA 8 v.2's and push them with an amp that can deliver 1500W RMS @ 1 Ohm (750W to each sub) safely, efficiently, and cleanly. Now, if the car's basic needs take up 75 Amps of the alternator and even if I could get all of the other 75 Amps from the alternator (which would be at its peak at a high rpm), I still wouldn't have enough power for to get to my amp to give to my subs. The ultimate best I could do is 550W to each sub and but is still in a perfect world of amplifiers with 100% efficiency. If I included a realistic 85% efficiency, each sub would only be getting about 460W. So, the problem: I don't have enough power to supply my amp. Solution: Get more power! How do I get more power? By increasing the power supply's power output. What is the power supply? BING BING BING BING BING!!!!! That is the $1,000,000 question of this topic!!! So many people say just get a bigger or better or more batteries, which would work it the car is off. But for me, I am in my car to drive. When I am driving the car is running. When the car is running, most of the electricity is coming from the alternator. SO WHY DO THEY SAY TO USE BIGGER OR BETTER OR MORE BATTERIES?!?!? Do they only listen to their system with the car off? And even then, how could a stock alternator handle charging a battery bigger than it was designed to charge AND also power the essential functions of the car AND power the sound system?!?!! If anyone is going to answer my questions, at least answer the last few. AND PLEASE!! Don't answer if you don't know. I don't want to become a false informed ignorant douche. I am not looking to pick fights, neither do I enjoy others fighting, so please: RESPECT EVERYONE'S POST and if you think they are wrong, then spend the time to KNOW they are wrong, otherwise, if you KNOW they are wrong, please RESPECTFULLY LET THEM KNOW WHAT THEY GOT WRONG AND CORRECT THEM and explain if necessary. Just because the other person is not in front of you in person doesn't mean you can insult them. NOW, let's talk ELECTRICITY!!!!!!!!!!! PS: This is my first post, so be please be extra nice...... if possible.
  24. I am looking for a high output gm alternator for my 01 yukon because i got a damaged power supply on my amp and had to get it fixed because of voltage drop. i am not sure that this will help my voltage issues if anyone has a better idea that would help me prevent voltage drop. thanks
  25. I installed the big 3 and I also installed the jl battery terminals and my deck still reads 13.2 volts when Idle and 13.6 volts when at 2,000 rpm on highway. Could my battery or alternator be dying even though they are both only a year old?