Ryan_Kao Posted August 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2013 Well here's a little update. Busted out the multimeter for some more accurate readings. Just as a thought to. Idling at about 950RPM (still warming up some) And this is what my little voltmeter in car said. I think simply my little voltmeter that is spliced into my cigarette lighter area isnt reading out very accurate. When my car idled down to the regular zone. 600ish RPM. On the MULTIMETER, i was reading out 13.1-13.2. On the voltmeter, 12.8. Build in progress: -Pioneer Premiere DEH-P49OIB _Kenwood Excelon KFCX173 6.75" -Kenwood KFC-1094PS 4" -DB Link 4AWG -Soundstream DTR1.900D -Obsidian Audio v2 12" D2 @1ohm -L-Port, 2.5cubes @32hz CHECK ME OUT ON YOUTUBE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyuunosukePanda Posted August 31, 2013 Report Share Posted August 31, 2013 What style is your meter in dash? 2 wire or 3 wire? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan_Kao Posted August 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2013 What style is your meter in dash? 2 wire or 3 wire? 3 Wire. Black white red Build in progress: -Pioneer Premiere DEH-P49OIB _Kenwood Excelon KFCX173 6.75" -Kenwood KFC-1094PS 4" -DB Link 4AWG -Soundstream DTR1.900D -Obsidian Audio v2 12" D2 @1ohm -L-Port, 2.5cubes @32hz CHECK ME OUT ON YOUTUBE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyuunosukePanda Posted August 31, 2013 Report Share Posted August 31, 2013 Run the remote wire of it to your head units remote out (if equipped) the power draw should be very small so you shouldn't need a relay. Run the ground to another ground then red to your head units power (constant 12v) it should be more accurate that way. the cigarette light has a large voltage drop in it. Usually caused by a resistor or diode. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan_Kao Posted August 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2013 An update! http://youtu.be/EWM3r8arAWw?t=44s Build in progress: -Pioneer Premiere DEH-P49OIB _Kenwood Excelon KFCX173 6.75" -Kenwood KFC-1094PS 4" -DB Link 4AWG -Soundstream DTR1.900D -Obsidian Audio v2 12" D2 @1ohm -L-Port, 2.5cubes @32hz CHECK ME OUT ON YOUTUBE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyuunosukePanda Posted August 31, 2013 Report Share Posted August 31, 2013 I'm glad you're figuring it out. If you've got any questions at all feel free to PM me. Also I work at a battery store and have been working with low voltage electronics since I was about 10, and car audio since I was 14, so I do have a good background on electrical. Happy to help out. I did sub to your YouTube! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan_Kao Posted September 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2013 Well guys. Its coming down to it. Put $200 towards a "not so high output" 150Amp Alternator, or add a second battery and put more money toward the box and sub? Opinions? My voltage isnt that bad anymore now that I know my true read outs. I'm not bumping full tilt 24/7. In fact most the time when im driving i turn the gain down to less than 1/4 because rattles get annoying. I only go past 1/2 on the gain when I do little demos. So really, I dont even use much amperage from my alternator. I'd say right now my battery is holding things up just fine. I may be wrong? Build in progress: -Pioneer Premiere DEH-P49OIB _Kenwood Excelon KFCX173 6.75" -Kenwood KFC-1094PS 4" -DB Link 4AWG -Soundstream DTR1.900D -Obsidian Audio v2 12" D2 @1ohm -L-Port, 2.5cubes @32hz CHECK ME OUT ON YOUTUBE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyuunosukePanda Posted September 1, 2013 Report Share Posted September 1, 2013 Usually a second battery is sufficient, thats what I'm doing. One thing you ABSOLUTELY need to be sure of when doing dual battery setups, if putting the battery in the cab or trunk make sure it is a sealed Pb + HSO4 (standard Lead-Acid). The normal non-sealed version can leak, or put off gasses, Hydrogen and Oxygen. You will also have to use a relay, this one is 100A, http://www.ebay.com/itm/151045851522?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649 Run a heavy gauge wire, I'm running two runs of 4Ga back to the truck into a distribution block, then running 1/0Ga from there to the battery. Two runs of 4Ga is only equivalent to 1Ga. Usually a little cheaper I'm doing this first then upgrading the alternator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kranny Posted September 1, 2013 Report Share Posted September 1, 2013 Well guys. Its coming down to it. Put $200 towards a "not so high output" 150Amp Alternator, or add a second battery and put more money toward the box and sub? Opinions? My voltage isnt that bad anymore now that I know my true read outs. I'm not bumping full tilt 24/7. In fact most the time when im driving i turn the gain down to less than 1/4 because rattles get annoying. I only go past 1/2 on the gain when I do little demos. So really, I dont even use much amperage from my alternator. I'd say right now my battery is holding things up just fine. I may be wrong? who makes a 150 amp alt for $200? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kranny Posted September 1, 2013 Report Share Posted September 1, 2013 that eBay alt you listed will likely do absolutely 0 at idle. meaning it won't even be turned on. that's what both my eBay alts did when I was idling. plus the voltage was all over the place because of the shitty Chinese regulators and overall build quality Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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