Adding midbass driver

[blake1886]

So when it comes to adding misbass speakers in the doors, how do you set them up correctly? I am trying to understand higher quality audio better. i have seen videos on the internet where people have some tweeters on the A-pillars and then in their custom door panels they have some 6inch and 8inch speakers. how to they get these speakers to correctly play the riight frequency? Many times you see people having one amp to run the tweeters, amps for door speakers, and then amps for subs. but how do they run the 6inch and 8inch speakers off the same amp if they would need different crossover points because they would hit different frequencies better or worse than the other speakers. I would appreciate any help on this subject.

[Kevin M]

Setting up midbass speakers is different for every car. It can get pretty technical too. Some people choose to do active x-overs(at the HU or the Amp) while others do passive (similar to what you see with component sets.) These x-overs can have varying slopes 6 to 48 db depending on driver used and diameter. This means the loudness of the sneaker will drop off a certain amount at the point where the x-over is set at. When you get a midbass driver you will want to choose one that complements your other speakers and provide the output you need. All the speakers need to work in harmony with each other with none overpowering the others. The doors are a good location to mount the speakers as are the kick panels and floor boards. Where you place them and what drivers you choose will help decide what freq. range they play. If you have a 3 way setup you may choose a midbass that is bandpassed and only plays from 80-up to 750hz. A two way midbass/midrange will typically play a much larger freq. range from 80hz to to 2500hz or even higher.

That's a crash course and there is more to it than that. If you have any more questions put em up and we will try our best to answer them.

[Bass Teen]

I don't know much about mids in doors

What I do know is that over here we build separate boxes for our mids and highs.

Not hating on your traditional ways.

We really like heavy mid bass. Mids that hit your ears .......Check out eminence or 18 sound if you really want some serious heavy duty mids .

Eminence 10's on decent power ..(300 watts) should make your ears rattle from the vocals alone

But they are some 8'' that may fit in your doors since putting 10''s in the doors probably wont fit ........

[Kevin M]

I don't know much about mids in doors

What I do know is that over here we build separate boxes for our mids and highs.

Not hating on your traditional ways.

We really like heavy mid bass. Mids that hit your ears .......Check out eminence or 18 sound if you really want some serious heavy duty mids .

Eminence 10's on decent power ..(300 watts) should make your ears rattle from the vocals alone

But they are some 8'' that may fit in your doors since putting 10''s in the doors probably wont fit ........

<--- Likes lots of midbass. 12" eminence in my doors. Poly and paper non PA work great for midbass too. I had a 10" in the doors before and they were monsters. They would play to 30 hz! lol Building enclosures for them to go in the rear seat area now. As far as enclosures for the driver it depends on the drivers T/S specs.

[blake1886]

Thanks for your information but how do people power these speakers. Run components with the tweeter passive x-over off two channels of an amp and then the other two channels of the amp for the midbass driver

[Kevin M]

If you have a two way or three way with the supplied x-over you would use the manufacture's recommendation on power.With a small amount of loss through a passive x-over it will go to the speakers. If you are building your own 2 or three way you would want to go off of the drivers recommendation. When you pick a tweeter to go with a midbass or vice versa you will want to look at the drivers sensitivity as in bold below. Let's do a 2 way set as an example...

This is taken from Dayton's DC28F-8 Tweeter. One of my all time favorites. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=275-070

Power handling: 50 watts RMS/100 watts max • VCdia: 1.14" • Le: 0.09 mH • Impedance: 8 ohms • Re: 5.5 ohms • Frequency range: 1,300-20,000 Hz • Fs: 637 Hz • SPL: 89 dB 1W/1m • Qms: 0.82 • Qes: 0.9 • Qts: 0.43 • Dimensions: Overall diameter: 4.33", Cutout diameter: 2.72", Depth: 1.54" • Replacement diaphragm 275-072.

Now we'll choose a midbass/midrange to go with it. This is from the Dayton RS180-8. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-355

Notice the sensitivity and power handling. It is very close to the tweeter. This speaker would work well with the tweeter. Both speakers being 8 ohms would allow your amps to run cooler. So an amp that is 120 watts per channel at 4 ohms would send 60 watts to the tweeters and the mids since they are 8 ohms.

Power Handling (RMS) 60 Watts Power Handling (max) 120 Watts Impedance 8 ohms Frequency Response 42 to 3,500 Hz Sensitivity 87 dB 1W/1m

Keeping the sensitivity within the 1-3 db range is important in creating a balanced system. If you don't a driver may only need 15 watts to reach the same volume level as another that needs 250 watts. The speakers I use in my car are a perfect example. My horns have a sensitivity of 111db 1W/1M while my 12" are only 97db 1W/1M. It's a huge difference right? My horns are on 30 watts while the 12" need 4 times the wattage to reach the same output.

[Eroc3k]

Does anyone have any recommendations for a passive crossover or how to make them? I too have the same question. I’ll be running 4-Crescendo 6.5” Mid-bass drivers (150RMS) and 2-Crescendo Super Tweets (80RMS). My thought was to have the 4 channel run both tweets and 2-6.5’s for the front channel and a set of the 6.5 in the back. But I’ll need a passive x-over to do that for the front.

Also the power will be around 230 watts RMS so if I was running a DC 175.4 do you think that would be an issue being underpowered???

[Kevin M]

You can call partsexpress and they will build you a custom set of passive x-overs designed for your drivers. I think you could run active with that dc 4 channel though. You would want to use another amplifier for the rear speakers or they will play the same as the front. Not a true rear channel. If that doesn't bother you run the 4 6.5 in series for 8 ohms at the amp. Or,...you could get a pair of custom passive x-overs built and run pair of the 6.5" and supertweeters on those on two channels and run the rear 6.5" on the other 2 channels.

[Bass Teen]

@ scottish bear ........Awesome never heard of eminence 12's in doors before....Nice to see that there are other people that like pro drivers out there.

good to know that you like loud mids ..

I do myself ......I have a flared box with 2 10'' eminence

Man these things just slam ...

Do you have a picture of them? or a video would really like to see those 12's in the doors. It may give me some ideas.....I wanna clear my trunk and take out the mids ....probably add more bass

[Bass Teen]

oh never mind .........Silly me ......the links are in your sig