Cybermanlonnie Posted November 7, 2013 Report Share Posted November 7, 2013 Ok, so I'm not new to the forum but I'm still new in the car audio world and am learning as i go. I have a 2002 Lincoln Navigator with a Mechman 270 and an xs d6500 under the hood with one run of knuconcepts 0 guage positive and negative to the back. I'm gonna be running an aq 120.4 and 2 aq 2200s om 4 aq hdc3 15s. My question is would my one run be good enough with an xp 2000 to power them with minimal voltage drop? Do i need to add another run of positive; and if so do i need to run another ground back? Do i need another xp2000? I don't know a lot about the electrical aspect and i would appreciate any and all help in this subject as well as any other tips or tricks anyone would like to share. Thank you to all in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted November 7, 2013 Report Share Posted November 7, 2013 You will need more than one run. Probably 2 more positive front to back. You can save yourself some cash and just ground to the frame in the rear. If it was me (I've got an 03 expedition) I would convert the wire used for your negative run from front to back to a positive run. Then you just need one more positive run for a total of 3. 2 is probably enough, well I know it is but 3 will keep things cooler because those are LONG runs.Ground your batteries, and alt case to the frame on the passengers side and you should be pretty stout electrical wise. Well, about as good as we can get with the space we have.Check out this wattage guide from XS power. The XS series isn't listed but it can be used as a guideline. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted November 7, 2013 Report Share Posted November 7, 2013 In further detail: One run 1/0 from alt + to front battery + Three runs 1/0 from front battery + to rear battery + One run 1/0 from alt case to frame (front passenger side near strut location has a few good spots, take your pick) One run 1/0 from front battery to same location as above One run from rear battery - to frame (on the passenger side of the spare tire there are a few good spots) add a second if you have extra wire since this run is a little longer than ideal. Fuse properly and be safe! Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cybermanlonnie Posted November 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2013 thank you very much, the secondary batt is actually in a custom center console me and my dad are building so the runs arent going all the way back. also i always thought that you had to match the number of positive runs and negative runs? also can i use the strut mounting point as a ground as long as i grind it down and what could i use to spray and seal it back up after i bolt the ground down to keep it from rusting over. im sorry if im asking too many questions i just want to do this right the first time around. also would a 300 amp fuse on each positive run be alright or should i do something different. thank you very much for your input Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cybermanlonnie Posted November 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2013 also would additional run from the alt to the front battery help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted November 7, 2013 Report Share Posted November 7, 2013 thank you very much, the secondary batt is actually in a custom center console me and my dad are building so the runs arent going all the way back. also i always thought that you had to match the number of positive runs and negative runs? also can i use the strut mounting point as a ground as long as i grind it down and what could i use to spray and seal it back up after i bolt the ground down to keep it from rusting over. im sorry if im asking too many questions i just want to do this right the first time around. also would a 300 amp fuse on each positive run be alright or should i do something different. thank you very much for your input also would additional run from the alt to the front battery help? One of the benefits of a second battery is to have it as close to what is drawing power as possible. Not mandatory, but beneficial. Just saying. No you don't have to match the amount of negative and positive runs from front to back. In your truck, with the current you're running, the frame is a better option than front to back runs. This is because dc current flows like a circle and the negative, or ground, is just a return path to the power source. Picture lets say 3 runs of 1/0 from front to back for ground and the amount of current that coper can carry (you are running OFC right?), now compare that to what the frame of a your vehicle can carry. See where I'm going? In your vehicle the strut mounts are welded really well to the frame and there is lots of direct contact so that location is fine. Is it real humid where you live and do you get lots of rain or snow? You can use spray on electrical tape (Google it if you don't know what it is) or dielectric grease to prevent rust and corrosion. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted November 7, 2013 Report Share Posted November 7, 2013 also would additional run from the alt to the front battery help? Positive or negative? Positive wouldn't be necessary since that alt won't put out more than 270A and (true OFC full spec AWG) 1/0 is rated at 300 A depending on the length of the run. That's a really short run so I would say no. A negative run wouldn't hurt, but again not necessary. Electricity always follows the path of least resistance. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cybermanlonnie Posted November 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2013 Ok, the batteries will be just a foot from the amps, I'm trying to keep the runs as close as possible. Also the knu wire is ofc. It does rain quite a bit so ill try that spray on electrical tape. Also just to clarify 3 runs positive back to second battery 1 run from second battery to ground 1 run from alt case to frame and the big 3 has already been done do i got that about right? also looking for some suggestions on a box for the hdc3s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted November 9, 2013 Report Share Posted November 9, 2013 Ok, the batteries will be just a foot from the amps, I'm trying to keep the runs as close as possible. Also the knu wire is ofc. It does rain quite a bit so ill try that spray on electrical tape. Also just to clarify 3 runs positive back to second battery 1 run from second battery to ground 1 run from alt case to frame and the big 3 has already been done do i got that about right? also looking for some suggestions on a box for the hdc3s That will work. Depending on the length of the rear ground from the battery, you could even run 2. When it comes to electrical I see it like this; there is a lot you can't control but the amount and quality of wire you run is totally up to you, so don't let that be the weak link in your set up. Wire everything so that it can work to its full potential. As far as the box goes, I will defer to some of the other guys on here. Particularly, AMi Customs. He's the SondQubed guru. He will know those subs as well as anyone. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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