Jump to content
 
 

rockFord_Expedition

SMD Gold Member
  • Content Count

    3763
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

rockFord_Expedition last won the day on February 26 2015

rockFord_Expedition had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1335 Excellent

About rockFord_Expedition

  • Rank
    165db
  • Birthday 06/08/1978

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/195321-rockford-expeditions-rebuild-old-school-rf-smddamore-dc-power-xs-power-shca-lots-of-pics-inside/

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Arizona
  • Interests
    Family - Bass/Car Audio - DJ'ing - Riding Quads - RC Monster Trucks

Recent Profile Visitors

11959 profile views
  1. Sorry Kyle.

    1. Kyblack76

      Kyblack76

      Thanks bro. Sad day....  Sad day...

    2. audiofanaticz

      audiofanaticz

      Sorry for your loss!

  2. Thanks for bringing this back guys! This is my 2005 F-350 Super Duty. I have upgraded the OEM HU to a Pioneer AVH-4200 NEX Good luck to everyone.
  3. Youre talking about the 1/0 pulling out of the reducer right? I am not an expert in soldering but what are those reducers made of, aluminum? Just curious. And are you sure they aren't over sized or the wire is undersized? Another option could be a distro block with 18" or so of 4 ga
  4. It really depends on how much power you are running to begin with, and what your electrical is like. I have the RF cap and love it. It works well in my situation. I cant speak on the other, but I know some are better than others. I have a DC 270xp alt, and am pulling right around 2k rms in an 03 Expedition and I rarely drop below 13.5V regardless of the song, or other conditions (heat etc). In my situation, 10 farads is enough to make a difference and I never dip down into battery voltage. A healthy 12v battery will sit around 12.6 give or take a tenth or 2. If you aren't dropping to or below that, then you have enough supply to where you aren't really touching your reserve, and the cap will most likely help. Extra reserve will only help you hold that 12.6ish longer. Where, when, how and with what are you measuring your voltage when you say you stay at 12.8 or better? What is the rest of your electrical like?
  5. Where to start. Ok so one thing at a time. First, the most important thing is, running on stock electrical is asking for problems. Before any audio goes into your car, you should maximize the return path to your alt. So do the big 3 yesterday. An amp can be rated for whatever but it cant put out rated unless it gets the voltage and current it needs. On music, to put out 2500W its going to need between 100 and 120A all to it's self to run at full potential about double that if you're burping for numbers. So to do rated you probably need a new alt. That extra battery is only going to help so much. In an ideal environment that amp will do roughly 1800w at 1.3 but as mentioned already, impedance is nominal. How loud will you be? Thats alot of cone so it should move some air. How much usable volume is your "half wall box" going to have? On the low side those subs want about 10.5 cubes.
  6. Depends on port tuning, and several other things. Ts specs, environment etc.
×
×
  • Create New...