89 C1500 Build log. 144 @ 28hz, loudest single cab w/o blowthru?

[ChrispyShimp]

I forgot to mention the video that got me started on sketch-up, by CAF(Car Audio Fabrication) on you tube.

Here's the link, it really helps, he does a fantastic job explaining how to use the program.

[Rck'nRF]

Cory,

Any reason you didn't go with MDF board for your box?

I was thinking to myself, which would hold screws better? Every MDF box I've seen had horrible messes after you put a screw through it, it just crumbled, I didn't want that.

Also, Oak is more dense than MDF, I knew my box would have to be very durable for me to be happy with it. In my eyes, the 11 ply oak hardwood was just more solid than the MDF.

Great hindsight,never even crossed my mind about screws getting screwy!

..

[ChrispyShimp]

To be fair, all the MDF enclosures I've touched also just used wood screws over and over, I use T-nuts for the subs, unless the customer wants to be really cheap. T-nuts are kind of a PITA to install, but once they're in, it's just convenience from then on. (I use size 8-32 T-nuts and 1.5" #8-32 screws)

The MDF is 30-40% cheaper while weighing just a little less, it's not a poor choice for a box, I just wanted a box that was as tough as possible.

I might make a sloppy T-nut tutorial sometime. One last thing, MDF turns to mush if it gets wet, potentially ruining a whole box, whereas the 11 ply is small overlapped straps of oak, won't dissolve nearly as much or fast as MDF. MDF has a smoother surface though, easier to paint and sand.

[Brett84]

Awesome thanks man! I had a box a few years back, it you'd seen it, you'd think if was built from that design...

[ChrispyShimp]

Here's a pic of the interior with the box in.

How much do you think i paid for these few tools here? Check out those hole saws, super strong and still sharp teeth and bits!

The tool I wanted the most is the old-school round-over bit, it's brand new, never used, just been sitting in some one's tool box till they sold it.

A few more DIY experiments, I have like 5 bucks to my name, so I take something and make it into something else I need or want.

Made some crimps out of these old snips, they didn't cut right anymore, so I clamped it by the handle, used a file to flatten the cutting edge, and snapped a chainsaw file to fit it in the drill press, set the belt to the highest speed, and 'grabbed' the spinning file until there was a nicely sized hole in the snips. did it again further up, but didn't cut all the way in, for the blue and red terminals. I just realized, I might use this crimp for the next 20 years. Big Fat win if it works.

While I was at it, I popped a wire brush into the chuck and started removing the rust from some tools, here's a before and after of my line'smen pliers.

I'm really liking the drill press, it's useful for so much more.

Anyone have a guess as to what I paid for the tools in the 2nd pic down? And no, they weren't free.

[Rck'nRF]

To be fair, all the MDF enclosures I've touched also just used wood screws over and over, I use T-nuts for the subs, unless the customer wants to be really cheap. T-nuts are kind of a PITA to install, but once they're in, it's just convenience from then on. (I use size 8-32 T-nuts and 1.5" #8-32 screws)

The MDF is 30-40% cheaper while weighing just a little less, it's not a poor choice for a box, I just wanted a box that was as tough as possible.

I might make a sloppy T-nut tutorial sometime. One last thing, MDF turns to mush if it gets wet, potentially ruining a whole box, whereas the 11 ply is small overlapped straps of oak, won't dissolve nearly as much or fast as MDF. MDF has a smoother surface though, easier to paint and sand.

Thanks so much Cory!!Getting wet is another thing that really makes me not want to use this mushy stuff..wish i knew which wood style to use now..

Your modified 'side cutters'>'crimper' is absolute geniuse..whodathought some so simple out of complexity!I may now infringe on this behaviour courtesy of you on mine!

[ChrispyShimp]

To be fair, all the MDF enclosures I've touched also just used wood screws over and over, I use T-nuts for the subs, unless the customer wants to be really cheap. T-nuts are kind of a PITA to install, but once they're in, it's just convenience from then on. (I use size 8-32 T-nuts and 1.5" #8-32 screws)

The MDF is 30-40% cheaper while weighing just a little less, it's not a poor choice for a box, I just wanted a box that was as tough as possible.

I might make a sloppy T-nut tutorial sometime. One last thing, MDF turns to mush if it gets wet, potentially ruining a whole box, whereas the 11 ply is small overlapped straps of oak, won't dissolve nearly as much or fast as MDF. MDF has a smoother surface though, easier to paint and sand.

Thanks so much Cory!!Getting wet is another thing that really makes me not want to use this mushy stuff..wish i knew which wood style to use now..

Your modified 'side cutters'>'crimper' is absolute geniuse..whodathought some so simple out of complexity!I may now infringe on this behaviour courtesy of you on mine!

Hey man, that's why I posted this, to help the other guys out there who would like some really strong and durable crimps, but just don't have that 20 bucks for it.

I'm happy to share my knowledge and tips, and I hope to learn from those who know more. I'm all about learning, it's in my signature. And if I can help a few guys get the job done with less headaches and the pride of the DIY way, it makes me feel good inside. Make all the snip-to-crimps you want, I want to try these out and see how well it works.

Hell, I'll do that right now. OFF TO THE GARAGE!

[ChrispyShimp]

Did a quick test of the crimper I made, it didn't work out with the yellow terminals (never passed a pull test), but it works very well with the blue, very promising pull test.

Test subjects.

The jaw is fully closed, the width of the hole (It's not perfectly round btw) is just over 1/16th" while the larger is close to 1/8th".

test fit on larger wire (Supposedly 8ga, really not much wire inside the jacket tho)

Test fit on 12-14ga wire, the type I use the most often.

stripped

uncrimped terminal

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It barely fits in the crimper.

results of pull test #1: fail.

results of pull test #2: fail. tried using the smaller crimp hole and squeezed so hard my hands hurt. same results.

It doesn't put enough pressure in the center, doesn't crimp it really. just crushes the outside and some of the terminal. (Hole's too big)

Second test, 12-14-16 ga wire terminals, dun remember exactly which size blue is for.

I strip the wire and twist it, then fold it in half, get the most wire in the terminal to connect and crimp.

Uncrimped

The squeeze

Did a pull test, it was pretty loose, so I didn't pull it all the way out, and crimped it with the smaller hole.

after second crimp, looks good, very impressive on the pull test, afraid the wire would pull apart first.

Test conclusion- it works for smaller terminals.

Lesson learned- DON'T MAKE THE HOLE TOO BIG! if you try this, you can always file more metal away, but from the start, make it too small, and test it, if it doesn't work, file just a little metal away. I jumped the gun and filled it too much. Next time, I'll know what to do, and make one that will work even better, for free too.

[ChrispyShimp]

Forgot a pic, this is what the terminal looked like after a great pull test, kinda surprised me.

[cj92]

looks good man