Guest Posted February 9, 2014 Report Posted February 9, 2014 A3-1050.1D http://dbdrive.net/product/a3-1050-1d and that amp haS 2x40A fuses so 80A X 12v = 960Watts 80A X 14V = 1120watts this is the MAXIMUM power output and i am not certain if this brand does rated so i would say like kranny said apx 800-850watts rms (i have learnt the hard way every time you don't follow his advice it bites you in the ass) 2^1x800 = 29v. So set your gain on a multi-meter to 29v if you go to your shop you may be able to squeeze a couple extra watts out. manual says 2 35's. idk where you got 40's from.
GueroZ28 Posted February 9, 2014 Author Report Posted February 9, 2014 amp has two 35 amp fuses. will do like 800 watts. you'll be underpowering the speakers a bit. edit: i found the amp for $158 on amazon. thats not pricey Which amp is that?But it wont damage them or anything right yours....no it wont damage anything. unless you have improper settings on the amp/headunit and clip/distort the fuck out of the woofers. Oh im buying that amp from my dad cuz i have an A3 series but mine is only 850watts I meant the sound qubed 1200watt amp is pricey
CodyLucente Posted February 9, 2014 Report Posted February 9, 2014 I got the 2x40 from the fuse colour. Each colour has a specific amperage rating for that blade fuse but I never looked at the specs and seen the 35a Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid
CodyLucente Posted February 9, 2014 Report Posted February 9, 2014 As long as you don't crank up the gain in an attempt to put out more power then you will be fine. Those are some of the best subs you can buy so that's about the only way you can fry them with that amp. But it will pound, not comp ready but still pound How is DB drive? i know there a newer product but it looks sweet, i have been curious about their quality? edit* I am about to buy a pair of 312's or 212's from soundqubed (AQ) for my CT sounds 1200 similar setup to your just a little more powerful amp and a custom box. i've heard their only good amps are the a7 series. no idea if thats fact or not, but yeah. Thanks, and I didn't refresh before I posted that second post I didn't se your other post, didn't mean to seem like I was contradicting you on the 35A Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid
GueroZ28 Posted February 9, 2014 Author Report Posted February 9, 2014 As long as you don't crank up the gain in an attempt to put out more power then you will be fine. Those are some of the best subs you can buy so that's about the only way you can fry them with that amp. But it will pound, not comp ready but still pound How is DB drive? i know there a newer product but it looks sweet, i have been curious about their quality? edit* I am about to buy a pair of 312's or 212's from soundqubed (AQ) for my CT sounds 1200 similar setup to your just a little more powerful amp and a custom box. Well riggt now i have an A3 850watt and 2 db drive k012s 500watt single 4ohm and sound pretty badass but i want something alot stronger.. but db drive is kinda expensive at the store where its mainly carried
CodyLucente Posted February 9, 2014 Report Posted February 9, 2014 Everything online is cheaper. I got my CT Sounds direct from manufacturer for 199$ because they cancelled that line and replaced it with the 1400. Just have to know when an where to look. Best bang for buck I've seen is AQ, and alpine M240 Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid
GueroZ28 Posted February 9, 2014 Author Report Posted February 9, 2014 Everything online is cheaper. I got my CT Sounds direct from manufacturer for 199$ because they cancelled that line and replaced it with the 1400. Just have to know when an where to look. Best bang for buck I've seen is AQ, and alpine M240 Would you say soundqubed is better than db drive??
CodyLucente Posted February 9, 2014 Report Posted February 9, 2014 Hell yes Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid
GueroZ28 Posted February 9, 2014 Author Report Posted February 9, 2014 Hell yes Cool then soundqubed it is
CodyLucente Posted February 9, 2014 Report Posted February 9, 2014 the difference is DB - 1000w will do 800w AQ - 1200w will do 1410w Subs= SoundQubed HDC3.112 Amps= Audio Technix1200.1, Sony XM4x40 & Clarion XC1410 Rear= Pioneer 6"x9" coaxial Front= Polk 6 1/4 componants Trunk Lid= Pioneer 6 1/4 coaxil Battery= Optima Yellow-top (front) Shrunken 35AH Wire= 0/2 AWG welding Cable! Alternator= 125amps Extra= Continuous duty solenoid
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