new head unit noob need help with eq

[briang77]

I installed an alpine cde-bt148 in my car 2 days ago to replace an old 2006 kenwood I had. This head unit has a 9 band parametric eq. You can boost or cut just a whole shitload of frequencies. Pretty much you can effect every frequency from 20hz-20k hz. My mids and highs sound really good but all of a sudden my bass just is not what It was. I need some advice as to what frequencies I should boost or cut ? and what xover frequency and slope I should use for the subs? Any one know any tricks with these new alpines? The car is a 2003 Subaru outback wagon. I am running 2 sets of polk mm 61/2 components in the front and rear doors off a polk PAD 4000.4 and I have 2 12 (don't laugh but you can I don't care ) kicker comp s (the newer ones) in a 4.6 cubic ft box tuned to 35hz running off a kicker cx 1200.1. I did a big 3 and have a fosgate digital 1 farad cap. I'm gonna get a punch 1000bd soon and ditch the kicker stuff. I know without actually being in my car and listening it may be hard to help. My whole system overall is much,much clearer sounding but the mirror rockin bass just isn't there yet. It was there with the old kenwood and this head unit is a huge upgrade from that one. Also the kenwood had 5v preouts the alpine has 4v preouts. I know I'm going to have to bump the gains up a lil bit but would 1v make that much of a difference really ? Also I've gone over the whole system and everything is functioning and hooked up correctly so that rules out any mechanical or electrical stuff.

[Weigel21]

Yes, the preamp voltage difference can make that much difference, reset your gains. Then let us know if it's still lacking.

[briang77]

cool man thanks I will do that but, I'm not sure how to set up this eq or the xovers. it's got a shitload of choices. it's pretty crazy. the frequencies they choose to boost that are preset in it are weird I know that has a lot to do with it. And it can be changed. I will def reset the gains.

[Weigel21]

I take it the manual is a bit difficult to understand, or is it that you haven't yet popped the CD into your computer to view it?

I haven't messed with an Alpine since the CDE-124SXM I installed in my Brother-in-laws Explorer, but I do own an Alpine CDA-117 (hated it) and CDA-9833 (loved it). Used to have a CDA-9815, it was the first Alpine I owned and it got me hooked on Alpine, unit the CDA-117 put a bitter taste in my mouth.

[briang77]

I totally understand the manual. I got the tune it app also . I'm just looking for some suggestions, Help or what settings the other members here, That have alpines, Or any other head unit with a parametric eq, Are using that have worked well for them. Also, is it better to keep the q settings to affect the widest bands ? or should they be narrow for certain frequencies ? Or am I a dumbass and I am asking questions that can't be really answered without listening in person ? I know every car sounds different even the same make and model. I've just never had a head unit with this level of adjustment. I know how to actually go in and change the settings and have no problem using the head unit itself just the eq and xover has so many choices I'm not sure where to begin ?

[Weigel21]

There in lies the problem, we don't have the same car, speakers, amplifers, HU, hearing, or preferences. So, it's going to be quite difficult to say what will or won't sound better/best.

The newer models have the tuneit app, which is kind of cool, but IMO pretty worthless, no one is going to have the same exact car with the same exact system, not to mention the same hearing and preferences as you.

With the Parametric EQ, there are likely thousands of possible EQ curves that can be made. My advice, play some tracks geared for SQ and use them to bump and cut frequencies. Try to cut frequencies that are over bearing more so than boost those that are lacking, as boosting tends to dramatically increase power needed and the possibility of distortion. One can often cut dominant/overbearing frequencies quite a bit and then cut frequencies that seem good and end up with an EQ cure similar to that as one might get by boosting the weaker frequencies. The EQ curve won't the the exact same, but at least you will know that there was no boosting done to increase distortion.

Good speakers tend to require little EQ to get them to sound good, the better the speakers you you have, the less tailoring you're likely find you need.

Crossover point are yet another personal preference, but there is a range of what would be considered normal crossover points (which I'm sure you know. I mean you're not about to go running an active 3-way system and have tweeters crossed over at 500Hz and have the mids playing 50-1000Hz then the sub for some odd reason allowed to play unattenuated all the way up until it naturally rolls off.

Some may not find it so, but ever since I got my CDA-9815 and really messed around with tuning it (had a four people over the coarse of a year assist me with getting it tuned), I found that time alignment was practically a godsend and haven't used a HU without it since. So, I recommend getting that set at well, and before really messing with the EQ. Sure, it can cause the system to sound somewhat worse to other in the vehicle, but who cares, you're the driver, it's your ride, you are going to be the one listening to it all the time, it needs to be setup to YOUR tastes, not Jerry across the street that you hang with on the weekends or Bob from work.

[briang77]

Thank you that helps a lot

[Weigel21]

I sure hope it did.

I'd really love to be able to tell you or anyone who ever asks, exactly what to set every setting to for the best sound possible, but there's just way too many variables and personal preferences as well as individually different hearing are a couple major factors.