Lance Iiames Posted July 10, 2014 Report Posted July 10, 2014 First off let me say im Sorry, im sure you all get these types of questions often. I have tried looking around for answers but cant find anything that makes since to me. Im new to the Sound system world and decided to dive in head first. I have replaced every stock speaker in my Tahoe and am adding (2) 12" subs, now im worried that I may stress my electrical system. im planning on doing "The Big Three" but was wondering if there is a way to figure out how much power my truck needs to produce to meet all the demands im putting on it. I am currently deployed so I cant tell you how the truck acts with all this installed and the subs are waiting to be installed. If anyone could give me any advice on what type of electrical upgrades I should be looking at doing/buying for this set up I would appreciate it. What I currently have: Head unit - Pioneer AVH-X2500BT RMS output - 14 watts (50Peak) Preamp Voltage - 2 Volts Amp's - Massive audio D2400 (for my speakers) RMS power - 1200W X1 (2400W Peak) max voltage 15V -Massive audio D3600 (for my subs) RMS power - 1800W X1 (3600W peak) Max voltage - 15V Speakers - (2) sets massive audio CK6X W/28MM tweeters in the centers RMS power - 200 watts (500Watts Peak) Tweeters - (2) sets Massive audio CT1 25mm (ran off head unit) RMS power - 2-60 Watts (110 Peak) Subs - (2) 12" Massive audio KILO 124's Watts - 1000 RMS - 600
SlamminBeats Posted July 10, 2014 Report Posted July 10, 2014 Welcome man, if you are running 1500 rms an upgraded AGM battery up front and maybe one in the back will be the easiest upgrade. OR you could just get a High output alternator and be done.
csshakka Posted July 10, 2014 Report Posted July 10, 2014 You probably don't want a mono block to run your speakers and should look at a 4 channel amp instead. With that, only consider the RMS ratings of amps. I would guess massive audio doesn't put out rated (rms rating is higher than it actually does), but you can't know without testing. If you are looking to put 1800W to subs and like 3-400W rms between the speakers, you'll likely be fine with only a second battery. If you notice lights still dimming after second battery, you can either make a larger battery bank (add batteries) or get a high output alternator and be done like he said.
SlamminBeats Posted July 10, 2014 Report Posted July 10, 2014 You probably don't want a mono block to run your speakers and should look at a 4 channel amp instead. With that, only consider the RMS ratings of amps. I would guess massive audio doesn't put out rated (rms rating is higher than it actually does), but you can't know without testing. If you are looking to put 1800W to subs and like 3-400W rms between the speakers, you'll likely be fine with only a second battery. If you notice lights still dimming after second battery, you can either make a larger battery bank (add batteries) or get a high output alternator and be done like he said. thread jack where in Detroit area are you lol
csshakka Posted July 10, 2014 Report Posted July 10, 2014 You probably don't want a mono block to run your speakers and should look at a 4 channel amp instead. With that, only consider the RMS ratings of amps. I would guess massive audio doesn't put out rated (rms rating is higher than it actually does), but you can't know without testing. If you are looking to put 1800W to subs and like 3-400W rms between the speakers, you'll likely be fine with only a second battery. If you notice lights still dimming after second battery, you can either make a larger battery bank (add batteries) or get a high output alternator and be done like he said.thread jack where in Detroit area are you lol I'm actually in Dearborn heights during the week for work and then st. Clair shores over weekends lol. Why do you ask?
SlamminBeats Posted July 10, 2014 Report Posted July 10, 2014 You probably don't want a mono block to run your speakers and should look at a 4 channel amp instead. With that, only consider the RMS ratings of amps. I would guess massive audio doesn't put out rated (rms rating is higher than it actually does), but you can't know without testing. If you are looking to put 1800W to subs and like 3-400W rms between the speakers, you'll likely be fine with only a second battery. If you notice lights still dimming after second battery, you can either make a larger battery bank (add batteries) or get a high output alternator and be done like he said.thread jack where in Detroit area are you lol I'm actually in Dearborn heights during the week for work and then st. Clair shores over weekends lol. Why do you ask? cause thats where im from. i work in southfield and live in the shelby area.
csshakka Posted July 10, 2014 Report Posted July 10, 2014 You probably don't want a mono block to run your speakers and should look at a 4 channel amp instead. With that, only consider the RMS ratings of amps. I would guess massive audio doesn't put out rated (rms rating is higher than it actually does), but you can't know without testing. If you are looking to put 1800W to subs and like 3-400W rms between the speakers, you'll likely be fine with only a second battery. If you notice lights still dimming after second battery, you can either make a larger battery bank (add batteries) or get a high output alternator and be done like he said.thread jack where in Detroit area are you lol I'm actually in Dearborn heights during the week for work and then st. Clair shores over weekends lol. Why do you ask? cause thats where im from. i work in southfield and live in the shelby area. Hah that's pretty close. Working in Livonia here.
Lance Iiames Posted July 10, 2014 Author Report Posted July 10, 2014 My apologies I listed the wrong Amp im running for my speakers correct one is Massive audio D800.4 RMS power 120W X4 I imagine that the advice is still the same. when looking at batteries should I have Aftermarket running the truck and the spare one in the back as well? and sorry for the Noob questions but are you saying I should run them Parallel or series? And if I was to just go straight for an Alt upgrade what amps should I be looking at?
Cj Kumz Posted July 10, 2014 Report Posted July 10, 2014 You wire them in parallel to keep voltage the same but total the amps, series would double voltage to 24 volts blowing your car . Just get a good AGM battery at the the front and another behind then see how bad your voltage drop is. If you wanna get an alt get a 200amp or 250amp alt so in future depending on the upgrade in power you would be already set Vw Polo Pioneer Deh-6050UB Sundown Saz-3500d DD Audio 9500 15'' 5.5 cubic feet box with 10 inch port @ 38hz I live to hear the Bass drop!!!
csshakka Posted July 11, 2014 Report Posted July 11, 2014 My apologies I listed the wrong Amp im running for my speakers correct one is Massive audio D800.4 RMS power 120W X4 I imagine that the advice is still the same. when looking at batteries should I have Aftermarket running the truck and the spare one in the back as well? and sorry for the Noob questions but are you saying I should run them Parallel or series? And if I was to just go straight for an Alt upgrade what amps should I be looking at? That makes more sense haha. You wire them in parallel to keep voltage the same but total the amps, series would double voltage to 24 volts blowing your car . Just get a good AGM battery at the the front and another behind then see how bad your voltage drop is. If you wanna get an alt get a 200amp or 250amp alt so in future depending on the upgrade in power you would be already setThis. If you go the 2nd battery route, make sure you get an AGM battery for inside the vehicle and not a standard sealed lead acid. SLAs produce fumes and are supposed to be vented.
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