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Mazdawgs /proffessa's New Build


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dude that was 4 10"s! jamesy's cab in his pug i did is a BR loaded transmission line. roughly it has a shorter line length than a normal TL for each 10" with a restricted vent at half the length of the line. this allows reinforcement of notes much longer than the line. we moved the tuning up a bit the other day so now she peaks in the low 30's. she gained 0.2 db and also sounds alot more musical. before she wouldn't cleanly push much more than 47hz before sounding muddy if u know what i mean. now she goes to 50 with no problems. damn flat still goes to 20hz @ 145+. Henry B)

And this is where I want to be.

So, it's just a simple U-Turn T-Line, with a vent of half what is normal?

Example.

|____| Normal height

,____, Half Height.

Whats the BR stand for in "BR Loaded Transmission Line?"

Looks like I'm going to need to round up $25 for a new sheet of MDF.

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And this is where I want to be.

So, it's just a simple U-Turn T-Line, with a vent of half what is normal?

Example.

|____| Normal height

,____, Half Height.

Whats the BR stand for in "BR Loaded Transmission Line?"

Looks like I'm going to need to round up $25 for a new sheet of MDF.

yes chap. BR stands for bass reflex. it is a narrowing of the line with a smooth taper into a parallel sided restriction of a given length. the restriction poses an increased load on the cone and subsequently reduces excursion like a port would at a given note. due to the restriction, this occurs at a lower note than the line length would suggest (26hz). if the cab were a straight forward single fold transmission line then the line length would tune it in around 35hz. unfortunately, TL's are predominantly designed to be the ultimate in colouration free sound and great efficiency due to minimum loads on the cone, they don't damp excursion much at all (hence being efficient). this allow the cones to xmax very quickly on too much power. i loaded down the line to cancel this over excursion effect, allowing me to force a bass reflex style, acoustically loaded bottom end with more power. it plays smooth as a TL with the drive ability of a bass reflex design around tuning. the Q on the port is so so low. she'll still play 20hz at full tilt without getting any where near to xmax. hope that helps dude. Henry ;)

Live, eat, breath low frequency reproduction. Friend of all the creatures in the sea!

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If you guys wanna do 4th or some sort of 6th order you may wanna start researching lol, I like using this when I'm messing around with designs, mazdawg and proffessa what do you think of this?

http://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=newdriver

don't worry chap i've been working on designs like this in particular for the last three years now. paul and i just decided to build a large one for a change if u know what i mean geeze. lots of power in an extreme chassis! thanks for the link we have many calculators that are available to us and i shall put this one to the bank too, cheers chap. Henry :)

Live, eat, breath low frequency reproduction. Friend of all the creatures in the sea!

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don't worry chap i've been working on designs like this in particular for the last three years now. paul and i just decided to build a large one for a change if u know what i mean geeze. lots of power in an extreme chassis! thanks for the link we have many calculators that are available to us and i shall put this one to the bank too, cheers chap. Henry :)

Woops, I didn't mean to direct that to you, I was meaning to say that to the other guys asking about your design and wanting to do 150.xx @ 23hz. I see you got your shit together! I was wondering if in your opinion the calculator was any good? Accurate? I'm sure you have more experience with bandpasses than I do. Minding sending other calculator links my way?

btw the build looks awesome, really high build quality!

crxsilogozz5.gif

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Would it be a waste of wood to take the T-Line I have now and block off half the port?

Assuming I get it smoothed correctly.

Or just build a new one.

I can't believe I forgot what BR stood for.

I kinda figured what the smaller port was for and your post confirmed it.

The smaller port allows the sub something to "play off of", essentially, a limiter while still retaining the T-Line characteristics.

Is there an exact formula for making the port or do you make it 1/2 SD?

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The design for this box is something me Henry (professa) have talked about for a few years Henry did a bit of research between ratios in chambers and came up with a pattern which was very similar in cars the had tunnels or bass cubes which had a good response,this aint been built to be the loudest on the termlab but more of a flat response from 20-44hz at a fairly high level,most of or research as been done with mainly 4th order bandpasses,but smaller version of this design as been built and surpasses ,bass refless and 4th order bandpass in the 20 -50hz region.

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Internal brace for front chamber

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Internal brace fitted

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This is how it will be mounted in the van!!

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The uk,s first 170db

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Wow that is some nice woodwork... are the subs gonna be visible? You gonna wrap the port around the top after the rear chamber? Thats kinda what I'm seeing here

Yes Dude all the woofers will be inverted and the port fires through the back it may seem a bit strange but believe me it works real well for streetbass,we should also get good gains from having a extreme windsheild dont no what sort of numbers this will hit,for me its how loud it will be with both doors open this why we chose this design.

The uk,s first 170db

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