REH Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 I put this together in Torres, trying to design up my own box. I think that what I have entered is a slot port (on face side) for 2 12's giving them 1.8ish net each after displacements. I'm not sure if I have everything right in there or not, especially port configuration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 What subs is this for? How much power? "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REH Posted March 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 Type R's, swr-1222D models on 1.2kw.I built a box and had misjudged the ability to maneuver it into the trunk of my jetta, I thought I'd be able to build it to 36w 20.5d and 16h and go I sideways and turn, and it was about an inch too long to make the turn.. So I'm trying to adjust the dimensions a little bit to make it work... Without having to build in the trunk. The box I built before was 4cu.ft.after displacements, and I don't think I can build that large without building inside the trunk...Do you think that 1.7ish each is sufficient space for them? The other box I had them in had a 4" slot port @32 and I was pleased with the sound of it. Is reducing to 3.5 too small? Would going from 32 to 34/35hz tune be noticable? I'd love to be able to give them a full 2 cubes each again, and would be willing to do a aero to make that possible if it would happen but I don't know enough to know how large it'd have to be, if it's even possible? So I'm trying to design a slot port for it. I'm trying to have subs and port forward and seal off the trunk. I listen to rap and trying to be tuned around 32hz and trying to make this happen with however it'll work. If you have any suggestion or any tip that could help I'd love any input you have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REH Posted March 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 I tried another run at Torres, this time with a 4" slot port. I'm not sure if the 4" is needed with the Type R's or not. How does this attempt look? This one is for a 4" port at the side of the baffle also. If I did this right, gives right at 3.8cu. ft. after displacements and shows high 32hz tune. Does this look like it would work? I'm so new at this but giving it my best shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REH Posted March 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2015 ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted March 5, 2015 Report Share Posted March 5, 2015 Honestly either box design should work out just fine, I doubt you would be able to hear any difference between them so use which ever one will fit your space better. You should have plenty of port area with either design. I would suggest you try building the box in SketchUp or at least drawing it out on paper before you build it, just so you can get a feel for how everything is going to go together. If you post pictures of the layout I can give you ideas on how to brace it well. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REH Posted March 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2015 Honestly either box design should work out just fine, I doubt you would be able to hear any difference between them so use which ever one will fit your space better. You should have plenty of port area with either design. I would suggest you try building the box in SketchUp or at least drawing it out on paper before you build it, just so you can get a feel for how everything is going to go together. If you post pictures of the layout I can give you ideas on how to brace it well. If I go with 16-34-19 I'm positive that I can get it built outside and then squeezed into the trunk. I was just unsure if the port area would be sufficient because all of the other boxes for these that I can find, people are using 4" ports on. Will it be a noticeable difference going from the same subs/power/tuning in a 4 cube box, to a 3.6? What I've done in my head, after reducing the size down to this.. If I did a center port as I had before, I would have to have a second bend in it which I'm trying to avoid by going with the port on the side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REH Posted March 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2015 Honestly either box design should work out just fine, I doubt you would be able to hear any difference between them so use which ever one will fit your space better. You should have plenty of port area with either design. I would suggest you try building the box in SketchUp or at least drawing it out on paper before you build it, just so you can get a feel for how everything is going to go together. If you post pictures of the layout I can give you ideas on how to brace it well. Okay, I've made my decision on which I'm going to go with!!! I'll post the screenshot right below. As long as I get a thumbs up that it'll work then it's set in stone. I believe it'll be good. I have absolutely ZERO knowledge of how to use sketchup, so I'll post a random image showing the design of the box that I plan to make with it (random from internet) to show you what I'm talking about. And I picked up a 1 1/8" dowel rod that I assumed would brace front to back baffle between subs with? If you have a better way to brace in mind, feel free to share. If you, or anybody else has the free time and wants to use one of these programs that you guys use that will take these dimensions from torres and put them into something that shows exact cut sheets and assembly for everything (Including port cuts) that would be absolutely awesome. Sketchup would be fantastic also for anyone who has the time and wouldn't mind. So yeah, like I said if you can throw something together in sketchup showing this and the bracing you'd suggest that'd be awesome. A true cut sheet including the port... I would love you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted March 5, 2015 Report Share Posted March 5, 2015 Alright here ya go: When you put in the braces, the best way to do them is to have them go all the way through the panels and then cut them off flush with the outside of the box. This give you the most amount of surface area to glue to. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REH Posted March 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2015 Alright here ya go: When you put in the braces, the best way to do them is to have them go all the way through the panels and then cut them off flush with the outside of the box. This give you the most amount of surface area to glue to. You're the man, exactly what I needed. I didn't think of securing the bracing that way until I read that. What I had assumed was that you'd cut them to size, glue and run a screw into the center of them but since your way is better I'll give that a shot instead. I do have a question for you, how is it that when you calculate port length in Torres it then gives the shorter "Physical port length" which in this case is 4.5" shorter? Just curious of how that is done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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