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Triticum Agricolam

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Triticum Agricolam last won the day on October 9

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About Triticum Agricolam

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Eastern Washington State
  • Interests
    Speaker enclosure design & construction

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  1. No problem with having the ports sticking out of the box. As long as you don't mind how it looks it will help preserve some of your internal volume.
  2. You will see an increase from making the front chamber larger. Will it be noticeable to the ear? Probably not. Will it be measurable on the dB meter, probably yes.
  3. I would use two 4" ports, they are going to have to be about 30" long each, they are going to take up about .5 cubes of internal space and that's still not going to get you quite to 27 Hz. Making them any longer to try to get to a 27 hz tuning is just going to take up even more box space. For future reference, you REALLY need to know how you are going to do your ports before you start cutting wood. Adding ports after the box has already been built almost always results in difficulties.
  4. How much power are you going to be running?
  5. Lowering the tuning frequency will give you better low frequency output, at the expense of higher frequency output. Its hard to say if that is going to be what you want without hearing the system first. My suggestion would be to make the port removable or otherwise adjustable so you can play with the tuning frequency once you get the system playing. What you are describing for using 1/2" material for the port and sliding it into the box would be considered a slot port. It would be a 2 common wall slot port. While you can use 1/2 material for the top and bottom of the port, I would strongly suggest using 3/4" material for the sides of the port since they will be unsupported.
  6. The subs he has don't have huge Xmax, if he runs any more power than the amp he has is likely to put out, he will probably have issues with over-excursion.
  7. As far as your box specs go, those look pretty good. The subs you have should perform well in a 4th order bandpass box. The only change I would make would be to increase your port area. I would shoot for 200 sq in of port area. Since all the output comes out the port on a bandpass box, they are very sensitive to port noise and port compression. As far as meeting your goal of getting loud and low, things get more iffy. The box will certainly get loud, however like most ported boxes, you are likely to get your max output around the tuning frequency and bandpass boxes are tuned higher. Here is a graph showing the raw output from both your intended bandpass box (in red) and a 8 cu ft ported box tuned to 32 hz (in green). Please note this graph does not include the effects of cabin gain, which will boost low frequency output significantly. Cabin gain should boost both enclosure's output roughly the same so the comparison is still valid. The ported box is probably going to have more output between 35 Hz down to around 25 Hz. The bandpass will do better above and below that range.
  8. Yeah, I do. But I'm really slow these days. I looked at your box specs, in my opinion you are low on port area, but not hugely so. How loud do you think you should be getting?
  9. What are the specs of your current slot ported box? There is nothing aero ports can do that slot ports can't, so there is absolutely no guarantee that going to an aero port box is going to do a damn thing for you. It may just be that you have a poorly designed box.
  10. If you don't know anything about them, why do you want a 4th order bandpass box?
  11. A ported enclosure will give you the most low frequency output 99% of the time.
  12. How wide are your ports? As long as you have at least one port width of space it shouldn't impact performance much, it may lower tuning a bit though.
  13. How much space do you have between your tailgate and the box?
  14. Who told you to reduce the box size to 2.7 cu ft with a single 6" port for two 12 subs? That's really small and that low of port area is going to really choke output. Sundown recommends at least 32 sq in of port area per sub for a reason. A single 6" aero port doesn't even get you that much. I can't really give you any specific advice on what to do with your truck car, what I have seen most other people do and has worked well is to fire your subs and port forward and seal off the trunk of the car from the cabin as much as possible. Tuning at a higher frequency where you are likely to be getting more cabin gain will almost certainly get you a higher dB number. The trade off is you won't be able to play as low, you have to decide if that is a worthwhile trade or not. If you want to post the design Ray did for you I would certainly like to take a look at it.
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