mmacleod1983 Posted November 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2015 Yes I believe clipping will pull more current. May I ask what amp you are running? rockford punch p500x2 running 6 1/2" components in kick panels on floor and one pair of 6x9's in front door as well as the 6 1/2's in the rear door Kenwood touch screen in dash pushes two 3 1/2" speakers in dash rockford punch p1000x2 pushing two 10" CT sounds strato V2's Fox acoustics ported box 1.35 cu ft tuned to 35hz #2 welding cable used for big three and to distribution blocks, stinger 4 ga from distribution blocks to amps and grounds Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tboorn Posted November 30, 2015 Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 sounds like a faulty ground problem. not necessarily under the hood but it seems like it could be your amplifiers ground, in relation to your alternator and battery. make sure whatever your amp is grounded to, is also connected to wherever your battery, and alternator are grounded to. not necessarily the same exact spot, just the same common piece of metal (e.i. why most people use the frame, 1 long huge piece of metal) Fidelity Built to Last Team Sound Asleep 24Runner Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/196657-24runner-sleeper-system-lots-of-fi-neo-dd-focal-new-video-w-juicebox-lithium/ 2 x 12" Fi BTL N2 / 2 x 12" Fi BTL N3 2 DD M3b Maxwell 2.7V 3000F Supercapacitors Pioneer DEH-80prs Focal P165 V30 components Rockford Fosgate T-400.4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmacleod1983 Posted November 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 I've grounded front amp to metal that holds dash. Rear amp is grounded to bolt under rear seat Are you suggesting drill holes in floor pan and ground directly to frame? Could I run one ground from frame to a distribution block and two grounds from there to my amps? What's the maximum length of ground wire you would suggest? I always thought as short as possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MotorCityFats13 Posted November 30, 2015 Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 shorter is better .....but a short ground that is bad is much worse than a longer ground that is good.... in reality the ground path is already as long or longer than your + run so just make sure its clean and runs through as little metal transitions as possible... IE pinch welds on a unit body car is going to add resistance over a full frame truck.... when all else fails add another ground path and run another cable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tboorn Posted November 30, 2015 Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 I've grounded front amp to metal that holds dash. Rear amp is grounded to bolt under rear seat Are you suggesting drill holes in floor pan and ground directly to frame? Could I run one ground from frame to a distribution block and two grounds from there to my amps? What's the maximum length of ground wire you would suggest? I always thought as short as possible. a lot of people do drill holes in the floor and add grommets in order to secure the +/- connections to the frame. but for most installs you can usually find a grommet or some spot factory that has wires going outside of the cabin. you definitely could run, and as im typing this realizing its the better option, one long run of 0 gauge from your battery negative to the interior of the car, and then have a distro block for your 2 amps. since you already have a way to bring the + into the car from under the hood, you should easily be able to add a negative run next to it. and id be willing to bet itll help. just make sure your battery is also grounded to the alternator. and good way to testif your negative run is suddicient is you should be able to put your finger on any ground wire, and trace it all the way to the alternator, battery, and amplifier without lifting it. Fidelity Built to Last Team Sound Asleep 24Runner Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/196657-24runner-sleeper-system-lots-of-fi-neo-dd-focal-new-video-w-juicebox-lithium/ 2 x 12" Fi BTL N2 / 2 x 12" Fi BTL N3 2 DD M3b Maxwell 2.7V 3000F Supercapacitors Pioneer DEH-80prs Focal P165 V30 components Rockford Fosgate T-400.4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmacleod1983 Posted November 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 I've grounded front amp to metal that holds dash. Rear amp is grounded to bolt under rear seat Are you suggesting drill holes in floor pan and ground directly to frame? Could I run one ground from frame to a distribution block and two grounds from there to my amps? What's the maximum length of ground wire you would suggest? I always thought as short as possible. a lot of people do drill holes in the floor and add grommets in order to secure the +/- connections to the frame. but for most installs you can usually find a grommet or some spot factory that has wires going outside of the cabin. you definitely could run, and as im typing this realizing its the better option, one long run of 0 gauge from your battery negative to the interior of the car, and then have a distro block for your 2 amps. since you already have a way to bring the + into the car from under the hood, you should easily be able to add a negative run next to it. and id be willing to bet itll help. just make sure your battery is also grounded to the alternator. and good way to testif your negative run is suddicient is you should be able to put your finger on any ground wire, and trace it all the way to the alternator, battery, and amplifier without lifting it. I live near san antonio whats the chances I rip out what I have and could pay a nominal fee to have you help me install this system correctly? I just ordered a new alternator, new battery, new wiring, new amp and subs. I know car audio but only the basics. I am looking to get more DB's and I know this system is capable. It is far more than I have ever had and its not nearly as loud as the two kicker CVR 12's I had years ago. So something isnt right. Either I am not getting the volts to make the power needed or my current alternator, battery and wiring upgrades are completely done wrong. Im guessing its gotta be a voltage drop because this should be louder based on my knowledge and previous 15 years experience in car audio Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tboorn Posted November 30, 2015 Report Share Posted November 30, 2015 shoot me a pm im sure we can work something out Fidelity Built to Last Team Sound Asleep 24Runner Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/196657-24runner-sleeper-system-lots-of-fi-neo-dd-focal-new-video-w-juicebox-lithium/ 2 x 12" Fi BTL N2 / 2 x 12" Fi BTL N3 2 DD M3b Maxwell 2.7V 3000F Supercapacitors Pioneer DEH-80prs Focal P165 V30 components Rockford Fosgate T-400.4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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