MotorCityFats13

the amp has dual inputs to make wiring options more simple but they are connected because its a mono amp..... wire it the way you said and you end with .5ohm

its a coyote V8 so its 2011 or newer and he did a big 6 upgrade also not the stock alt

do you have the electrical to back up a 7k amp.... if you dont then this could make more sense

its sucking more juice and this will cause power loss / clipping .... unless you already upgraded all your electrical

I am still dreaming of a little plug doo dad like this for my 2007 explorer ..... damn shit acts the same way and when It charges at 13.5 its killing my resting voltages.... 12.1vdc vs the day i left a float charger on it and it rested at 13.2vdc

77vac X 77vac / .5 = 11858 watts for the win! yeah that's too high.... remember you are wired to .5 ohm now but even at 2 ohm that's still close to 3k..... but remember this math is just theoretical ohms law max power with out figuring in efficiency, power factor or impedance rise

none of the links you shared are working for me... when your port shares a wall of the box you use end correction to dial in a more accurate tune.... more correction is needed if your port shares more then 1 wall.... but to my understanding the port gets shorter after correction so if you don't use end correction the tune will be lower and its not the end of the world unless you are into competitions looking at the link titles it looks like you plan on making a slot port with multiple bends and reading multiple threads from some of the most famous box designers on the smd forums I think they said to avoid more than 2 or 3 bends and not to exceed 32" port I cant hear a difference between a 31hz and a 32hz tune

looks like the cooling fins are still clear so it should still perform as well as it looks..... powder coating an inter-cooler can have some bad results but it looks like your guy knows his sh1t...... the lexus is going to be jealous in a straight line ..... I can always count on you posting things I can only dream about doing!!!!!!!

one coil is either damaged or when they were building the coil they did something wrong either way one coil is getting more power than the other making the cone not move in a linear fashion possibly causing the coil to rub and destroy its self one day..... ive seen this on 2 subs in my time.... one was an American bass 15" where one coil read 2 and the other jumped all over the place "1-8 ohm" and the other was a dc XL where one read 2 ohm and the other was 4 ohm needless to say neither sub made it over 3 months of constant abuse so be careful if you cant get it replaced.... since seeing this the first thing I do before hooking up a new sub is check the coils with a DMM

lowpass at 35hz? why do you want to limit the output at that low of a note? most people are very happy with LP set at 80hz and subsonic at 20hz..... you are really cutting most of your usable bandwidth because im sure your door speakers/midbass cant make up for this

I will agree with that one...... just tell people you use the seat belt bolt as all of your grounds

oh..... crap!

you know what you have to do then.... set it all up and make a youtube video and be the 1st! I know ill be waiting in line to see what the lvl 1's can do

rusty told me on one of my posts that as long as I dont seriously over power my level 3 12" I can go 1.75 vs the 1.25 factory recomended so the 15" should follow suit..... start a new thread on the dc section and ask him since he knows what his subs can handle..... but I opted for the AR cone and surround so apples to apples might not compare the same

a wall can be sealed, ported, 4th order or 6th order.... it just has to be a box that uses enough space to be built directly into a whole section of a car/truck....... 4x 15" should move enough air to make hair move but its no guarantee