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tboorn

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About tboorn

  • Birthday 04/30/1992

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    San Antonio, TX
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    Math is always the answer
    My Sibe Husky
    Fi Enthusiast

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  1. not to be blunt but ummmm....... to the frame, as short of a run from the battery and the alt as possible
  2. lithium is definitely where its at if long term demoing is your goal, for SPL its not the best but will work because the voltage does stay in the 12's, with continuous output, rather than caps which have output at a higher voltage but voltage drops off quicker. as for your other questions, lithiums are fine paired with AGM batteries, they just have mildly different floating voltages so when your vehicle is off the lithium will be drained down to battery level, but its not a problem as long as you have a good alternator. also you can charge lithium with a regular battery charger, but unlike AGM, you cannot leave it to "maintain" the battery, they need to be charged then taken off the charger since they can be over charged and become volatile. you just have the watch the voltage and take it off once it reaches peak charge voltage, a lithium battery charger will simply know when to stop so you dont have to watch it, along with cycle the battery for you to keep it alive longer
  3. update looks sweet but why are the notifications set to send only to email and not actually on SMD, it says the admin has it blocked so theres no way to stop getting emails for every topic youre subscribed too?
  4. thats pretty awesome. although when it comes to larger amounts of power i would be a little skeptical because neo magnets are made of ceramic, and coated in nickel. and only the nickel coating is conductive, not the magnet itself. but being such a small connection id think it wouldnt be too bad with small power, since the electrons dont have to travel very far, now stack 50 magnets together and do the same thing and resistance would definitely play a part. i also think about the heat created by having a current pass though the magnet, and the build up over time potentially affecting the magnetization, and the resistance the heat increase causes. i also just read that when you pass a current through a magnet, the flow of electrons in one direction, affects the poles on the magnets since they flow in both directions, and can negatively affect the magnetic bond. something to think about, seems like an awesone idea though.
  5. they can spin in reverse but you will see... i think its ....around 25% less output because of the fans not spinning properly. its been done before though
  6. glad everything is on the path to getting better, the audio community would be at a loss without your knowledge
  7. thank you for the incredibly detailed explanation of how the crossover works. That puts fact to what i assumed to be true i just had no justification. but as stated in my example/question i had the AMM-1 hooked up to the speaker wire that is coming directly from the amp, into the 2-way passive crossover. From your explanation it seems that since the amp is seeing a constant 4 ohm load, the AMM-1 should also register a 4ohm load when calculating its figures. Yet i have been unable to get a proper live, or dyno, power reading from the AMM-1 with this configuration. So if i am trying to measure the complete output from the amplifier to the component set, what have i done wrong?
  8. but that was one of things i felt could cause trouble with the AMM-1, since the speaker wire goes into the crossover im not sure if the impedance rise is facilitated back to the amp, or just stays at the crossover and the crossover sends a constant impedance to the amp.
  9. im not quite sure what youre referencing. I agree that is correct but im not using an EQ in this scenario. ah i think you mistook me saying "crossover" for an EQ, i mean the crossover that is used/came with my component set, which consists of a tweeter, a mid-bass, and a crossover to separate the signal for the two. Its purely analog and has no signal changing capabilities. heres a link if yourne not getting it. http://www.focal.com/usa/en/expert-archives/332-p-165-v30-3544053750156.html
  10. So as stated i was curious as to how much power my Rockford Fosgate T400.4 was putting out to my set of Focal P165v30 door speakers. Let me start by saying how everything is hooked up because i feel like that may have something to do with it, although another part of me feels like it shouldnt. I have a prs80, RCA's coming from the Front Left & Right output on the h/u, and into channel 1 & 2 on the amplifier. It is a 4-channel but has a switch for 2-chan or 4-chan input. The switch is on 2-chan, which the owners manual says is the way to do it if you are using all 4 channels, but only 2 inputs. Next, since im only running one set of component speakers, i have the right components bridged on chan-1 + and chan-2 -, and the left components bridged on chan-3 + and chan-4 -. The speaker wire coming out of the amp goes into my crossover, and then to the woofer and tweeter via the crossover outputs. Both speakers do work perfectly and so does the amp. I used the speaker wire coming out of the amp that goes into the crossover through the AMM-1 for testing, and hooked the probes up to the right speaker +/-. Upon powering up the system and the AMM-1 i was able to see readings for AC VA & Power Factor, AC Freq & Impedance, AC voltage and AC current. But once i reached either dyno mode or live power mode, i got no reading whatsoever. I played music, and a 400hz test tone at near full tilt. I will also add the AMM-1 was only registering around 3-5 volts of AC while the tone was playing, which by my math guestaments wouldnt add up to what should be outputted from the amp. any insight is well appreciated, thanks! also ive ran the amp using only chan 1 & 2 for the speakers, and obviously, its not nearly loud enough, so bridging is the best way for me to go, i havent tried dynoing it that way to see if it works, but it wouldnt do me much good because i want to see how much power the speakers are seeing bridged.
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