Brad Majors Posted April 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2016 Well Soundqubed recommended 4.5 sealed for the pair so I figured shrinking down to 4 would help slightly. I suppose I could always build it 4 and if needed to go lower I could shrink it. When I laid it out on winisd with 4 sealed 9 ported it showed a fairly smooth roll. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Majors Posted April 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2016 Do you agree that I should only single wall the whole box and double baffle then just all thread brace it? Or dowels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted April 4, 2016 Report Share Posted April 4, 2016 I think single thickness walls with a double baffle will be fine with good bracing. I don't really like all thread for bracing though. Its heavy, ugly, only braces in one dimension, and only works in tension and not compression unless you get really large diameter rod. As an alternative I prefer hardwood dowels 1.25" or larger, though they only brace in one dimension as well. Even better would be window braces. Here is a thread with some good ideas on bracing: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/202148-best-way-to-brace-a-box/ "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Majors Posted April 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2016 I think single thickness walls with a double baffle will be fine with good bracing. I don't really like all thread for bracing though. Its heavy, ugly, only braces in one dimension, and only works in tension and not compression unless you get really large diameter rod. As an alternative I prefer hardwood dowels 1.25" or larger, though they only brace in one dimension as well. Even better would be window braces. Here is a thread with some good ideas on bracing: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/202148-best-way-to-brace-a-box/ okay well ill re-design the box tonight single layer double baffle and throw in dowels post up the picture and see what you think. thanks man for all ur help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted April 4, 2016 Report Share Posted April 4, 2016 Sounds good. I look forward to see what you come up with! "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Majors Posted April 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2016 This was the the first one i designed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Majors Posted April 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 Okay went back t the drawing board. Went 40w x 30h x 27d outside diameter. Shortened by 3 inches to compensate for the single walls and should free up some rear space for batts and amp rack. Not in the drawing but will do it due to a serviceable wall the rear will be doubled upback wall full size inside wall 3/4 smaller all 4 sides so it can make a perfect seal. SO down to the numbers. I have sealed section 38.5 x 28.5 x 6.5 so 4.1 ft before braces and such so will come under 4 by a little which is perfect i think. then on the ported side i have 38.5 x 28.5 x 17.5 which is 11.1 gross then 9.6 net WITHOUT braces which I need to determine how ima do them but ima try to get .5 or a tad more bracing to make right at 9 cubes. the port according to my calculators will be 12 x 12 x 10 now to get a 45-46hz. I have designed it to where the port will be removable so that i can play with it but for now i think it should be good. What do you think and do you think it will pan out? Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted April 5, 2016 Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 I think that looks pretty good. I'd be sure to brace from the front panel to the baffle and brace the top, bottom, and sides of the ported chamber. Other than that looks like it should work well. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Majors Posted April 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 Yea I figure I will do 2 dowels from baffle to front panel then probably just do those 45 windows you had linked me earlier. Plus that will help cut down on air space in the ported area which I need. Thanks man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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