6.5" MIDS & 4" COMPS Advise or Opinions

[CUT BUDDY]

Im getting (4)sets of 4" Rainbow SLC comps and (4) 6.5" Rainbow SLC Kick midbass drivers. My question is the 6.5" will be set at 80hz and my kicks at about 150hz. Going in a 98' Tahoe the mids will be in the factory door openings. For the comps I was going to have 2 sets for the front passengers and 2 sets for the back passengers. 2 sets fiberglassed into pillars where the front window is....I think they call it the A pillar...like Meade has his fabbed but I wanted 2 tweets and 2-4" woofers on each side facing right at ur face. The other 2 sets would be fabbed into the same pillar as the front passengers seatbelts but faced towards the rear passengers at head level as well. All driven by 2-MM50.4D amps for the comps and 1-MM100.4 for the midbass. Sound like a winner?

[Ray]

placment is very tricky..

I would not pick the same places for drivers, nor the same freq.

you will learn alot from this project though..

get some picks up.

[Guest MegaloManiac]

tune your mid range to 250 not 150....wait are you goin passive or active?

your mids at 80 like you said.

what kinda bangin system you have that requires so many speakers?

Also where did you get your Rainbow 4" comps? Pics? Link?

[CUT BUDDY]

WWW.PREMIER-AUDIO.COM & WWW.AUDIOJUNKIES.COM  are both Rainbow and CDT dealers. What do u mean by "passive or active" Maniac? The 6.5" mids dont have a crossover so I would be using the eq on my radio (Excelon KVT-817) if that tells u anything. Sooooo u say 6.5" would be set at 80Hz and the comps at 250hz? Oh and Ray the comps would be fabricated into the pillars at head level and all the 6.5" mids would be in the factory door panels. I wanted 2 comp sets in the A pillars like Meade has up front and 2 comp sets in the panel where the seatbelt goes into facing the rear passengers. But the reason y I need so many is because I "want" to run 4-fully loaded BTL18s but due to space issues I may be limited to just 4-BTL 15s (tuned to 33Hz, just a daily groundpound setup no intrest in competing). I havent decided If I want to go all out and run (4) MM4000.1Ds or just keep it modest with (2) MM4000.1Ds. But I was looking at the Autotek forum yesterday and the are comming out with a MM3000.1D and the msrp price is only $1700 so I now I could probably get them each for around $700 but I might as well get the MM4000.1's and I can get them for $1k. Either way thats alot of power so Im gonna have to have some hell of highs and mids to keep up with the bass.

[Guest MegaloManiac]

ok so you are goin Active since you are using your HU to equilize and not an passive crossover(where the speaker wires passes through a box and physcally crossover signal using diodes, caps, & resistors).

midbass 80hz    (place in doors)

midrange 250hz (place in the kicks)

tweets 2500 - 3500hz ( A-pillars, not to high, id say a bit higher from the dash line but lower from the middle of pillar.

is what i would recomend

[CUT BUDDY]

I know it probably sounds like alot for just a daily but I want something that is extremely loud to the point that it scrambles the brains of the people in the car "next to me"...lol. Even though I wont be competing my goal is to hit that 150+ mark. Do u think I can do it with just 2-MM4000.1Ds or 4-MM3000.1Ds, cuz Im sure I would be satisfied with 8krms or 12krms going to 4-BTLs. Really those Autoteks are underated. They are rated at 12.5v I believe, so I cant even imagine what it will do at 14.4volts. Plus they are very efficient with a 85% rating. The box will be a sub up port back set up; 18.3ft³with a 200in² port tuned to 33Hz So each sub will have 3.5ft3 each. The slot port will be back firing about 5" off the rear door right in the middle on the enclosure so I have room for the air to bounce off the door and come over the enclosure between the subs like Meades port in but mine will be about 20" tall and 10" wide. But anyway yea...those websites up top are authorized dealers. Check em out they have some nice prices and they negotiate prices if u are buying a good amount of speakers.

[CUT BUDDY]

ok so you are goin Active since you are using your HU to equilize and not an passive crossover(where the speaker wires passes through a box and physcally crossover signal using diodes, caps, & resistors).

midbass 80hz    (place in doors)

midrange 250hz (place in the kicks)

tweets 2500 - 3500hz ( A-pillars, not to high, id say a bit higher from the dash line but lower from the middle of pillar.

is what i would recomend

cool, do u think I could reach that 150+ mark with just 2-MM4000.1Ds? with that enclosure set up?

[Guest MegaloManiac]

with batteries and alts to back it up im sure you can

[CUT BUDDY]

with batteries and alts to back it up im sure you can

Yea Im not sure if I wanna spend that kinda bread on 4-bigass amps like that. I was gonna run 2-260amp Iraggi alts with a Kinetik HC1400 under the hood, 2+ and 2- runs of 2/0 with 2-500amp fuses ran back to 3-Kinetik HC2400s in the trunk right beside the amps. The fuses on all the amps add up to 1000amps worth of fuses, thats why I was just gonna have 2-runs of 2/0 with 2-500amp fuses.

[CUT BUDDY]

I have another question. What if I had 6.5" comps. Would I be able to play them at a lower freq to help blend in with the 6.5" mids better. Cuz I know ur not suppose to have 2 different size drivers playing the same freq but what if the kick was the same size as the mid, could it be done then? Im more worried about vocals than anything.