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6.5" MIDS & 4" COMPS Advise or Opinions


CUT BUDDY

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3.5cbft isn't alot of airspace for a 18" woofer, I'd mini. build 4.5 per sub even if you're going to run the 15's, plus a smaller box requires less power, so you'll be pushes the BTL's to the fullest,  ;), that's how we do it, I do recommend a bit more air space for the beasts though. And like me and you talked about eariler you can tune the enclosure to a bit lower freq. trust me it want hurt the BTL's to a bit lower Freq. more like 29-30 Hz. Hell just my L5 setup I build this year just to demo a single sub system hits a 22Hz tone without getting smokey. But good luck CUT.

I have this dream of this underground culture in mind, coming to life through the Audio that I build, Deep Perfection.YUKON'S SITEhttp://www.cardomain.com/ride/2397609

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I feel ya. Scott told me for a 15" daily to 3.5ft3 with 50in2 of port x 24-28" long and it would be tuned 30-33Hz. For the 18" daily he gave me 2 enclosures. A 7.0ft3 with 100in2 port x 25" which would be tuned to 33hz and I could set my filter at 28hz. Then he said if space was an issue that I could go as small 5.0ft3 with 60in2 of port x 20" or 80in2 x 29" and those would still be tuned in the same range. He said the smaller enclosure wouldnt get as much of a smooth response as the bigger one but with about 3k rms on each the power would make up for it. I wanted subs up port back. Thats y I was going with the 15s instead of the 18s. I could fit the 18s but I would have to do subs up/port with one long slot port in the middle of the enclosure between the subs. I know subs up port back would be louder but even then I extra cone surface from the 18s might would make up for that even though its sub up/port up. What do yall think would be the loudest. 4-BTL 15s sub up/port back with 3k each or 4-BTL 18s subs up/port up with 3k each?

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weaksauce hummer....j/p

with all that bass no need for midbass

So what ur saying is I could get all comps and use um for fronts and rears. So I could get about 4 or 6 sets of comps and set all of em at 80Hz cuz those rainbows recommend no lower than 80Hz. Front and rear all on the same start off freq in the eq on the HU?
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Guest MegaloManiac

So what ur saying is I could get all comps and use um for fronts and rears. So I could get about 4 or 6 sets of comps and set all of em at 80Hz cuz those rainbows recommend no lower than 80Hz. Front and rear all on the same start off freq in the eq on the HU?

well then your components will be playing midrange and midbass. If you cross them over at 150-250 you can give them more power without damaging them if you really want to bring out the midrange. but in the end there will be a hole in your midbass range(if you were to place it on a graph) but i dont think you will be able to notice it lol.

its up to you man. if it were me i would just invest on the front stage instead of getting a pair for the rear as well. use that xtra dough and get some mibass drivers and a sick little processor or crossover (active)

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Yea I was looking into a Audiocontrol DQS graphic equalizer with a DDC Controller to go with it. I only need to use 2 channels one it cuz I'll just be using it for my small amps (front and rear staging). My radio already has 5v outputs anyway. So I was just gonna control the subs with the HU and the settings on the amps.

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So what ur saying is I could get all comps and use um for fronts and rears. So I could get about 4 or 6 sets of comps and set all of em at 80Hz cuz those rainbows recommend no lower than 80Hz. Front and rear all on the same start off freq in the eq on the HU?

well then your components will be playing midrange and midbass. If you cross them over at 150-250 you can give them more power without damaging them if you really want to bring out the midrange. but in the end there will be a hole in your midbass range(if you were to place it on a graph) but i dont think you will be able to notice it lol.

its up to you man. if it were me i would just invest on the front stage instead of getting a pair for the rear as well. use that xtra dough and get some mibass drivers and a sick little processor or crossover (active)

Im still trying to figure out what u mean by just work on the front stage. Are u talking about the placement of the midbass driver or are u talking about just using the front outputs and not the rear outputs on the ?
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