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Need some help please


BYTizzle

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I made a thread a couple weeks ago trying to fit a ported box in my spare tire area of my C63.  Turned out, after much tinkering with the dimensions, that it would have to be too tall to make it work out well.  So Ive decided to redo the whole damn trunk setup to make a ported box work.  In order to maximize my space (without going to fiberglass) I can make a wedge (hatchback style box) but use the wedged side along the back of the seats to maximize box volume while taking up the least amount of trunk space.  I would then mount the sub on the flat face with the port opening also on the flat face.  Then I can mount my air compressors, air manifold and amp under the floor in the spare tire well.

Here's the issue:
When I use the various box designing programs they seem to configure it as mounting the sub and port opening on the "wedged" portion with no way to flip it around.  Im curious if I build it and place the port opening and sub on the flat side with the slot running along the wedged back (180* from the drawing), while maintaining the same port width and length, if it is now going to change the port tuning/net volume?  Or is the port volume and length still going to be the port volume and length and net volume still the same?  I will admit, I was a terrible Geometry student and Im failing to figure out the answer myself when I draw it up.  Im hoping someone has built a ported box this way and can offer up some advice!  This is the best solution Ive come up with so far to have some trunk space left while swapping to a ported box.

 

Equipment: SSA Icon 12D4 Sub, NVX 1700.1 Amp, 1.75 Net Volume, 34hz Tuning, 31.625 Port Area.

 

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If my math is right I would drop from 1.75 net to 1.49ish net switching the port to run along the wedged side.  If I increase the top and bottom depth by 1" and then drop the port width to 2.5" I get about 1.72 cubes net.  Can anyone please double check if Im getting the correct numbers here?

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So, I'm guessing what you're asking is, if you run your port across the angled side of the box, is there more volume in the port itself. The short answer is, yes, but very minimal. Just make sure to use the center of the hypotenuse for you distance measurements. 

Now, from a builder's standpoint.... creating a solid port at the same angle as the wedge side of the box is going to be a serious PITA!  At that point I would wonder if it's easier to sacrifice the wedge and jsut make the box all 90's and a little bit bigger, since that's the side you want your port on. Either that or maybe move the port to the center (2 common walls) and with a flare at the back? 

I'm (once again) curious what you decide on. 

 

(edit) FWIW I'm looking at designing something very similar for my ext cab truck.... except for me, both subs and port on the hypotenuse (wedge) side, (just like your pic except port in the middle) to maximize area behind the seat. I would prefer to have everything firing up but I need to be able to throw tools back there occasionally... so... yeah. I feel your pain on having to deal with constraints. ... But at the same time, that's what makes the journey fun, right?! 

 

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As sad as I am to admit this, you are completely correct.  Instead of sneaking an inch here and there, if I just make it 30w, 13h, 15d its the same damn thing without the headaches of angles lol... I figured if I had made it a wedge I could squeak some extra volume in and make it a tight fit, it literally saved .5" when all said and done.  Not worth that added headache!

I guess I just way overcomplicated this!  Im building something for my wife's Mini (a Turbo convertible).  Hers is a simple rectangle, took me all of 5 minutes to design up, of course I complicate this one to death tho! lol...

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Last thing, does it matter where I mount the sub?  For example, does it have to be as far left as possible (nearest to slot port)?  Or, can I mount it in the center and it doesn't matter? 

I know this is a super-noob question but this is still my first time building something like this.

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