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Casparado

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Casparado last won the day on August 12 2019

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About Casparado

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    125db

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    Male
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    Mendocino, CA
  • Interests
    Fitness, Home theater, Car Audio SQL, Mutant Vehicles

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  1. Chamfered will look the cleanest and be the easiest to work with if you're gonna wrap it. If you're going to leave it wood, then round over might look the cleanest IMHO.
  2. Man I had the same problem with my sub and 1/4-20 machine screws. It's annoying as shit that the mounting holes aren't large enough to accommodate them. For the meantime I have it mounted with normal T25 stainless wood screws. I'm really glad I didn't install the threaded inserts before testing them! Anyway the only way I see to get around it is to either buy smaller machine screws and threaded inserts or to bore out the screw holes on the subwoofer flange. .... I'm actually leaning to the latter so I can have decent thread size holding them in place, but I haven't done the deed yet. I'm going
  3. I had an "oops" when building mine, too. When I did the math for the part of the vent that wraps around the back, I measured wrong by 3/4" (forgot to add the thickness of the wood) so the port was almost wider for half of it... but fortunately I caught it and it was an easy fix. It's definitely easy to make simple mistakes, especially if you're excited or in a hurry. It's looking good, man! Do you plan on carpeting it or just painting it? If you're carpeting it, you might want to add channels to stuff the carpet into for a clean look.
  4. That looks like a tight fit. Have you made sure you will be able to rotate it into place once it's fully built? Might save you another headache...
  5. I just finished building my box. Only used a skill saw and it took about 2 hours to cut the pieces and another 6 to 8 to assemble them and install. Everything fit great (but I did have to shave one panel down 1/32”... otherwise no issues) and if you have a large enough table saw, that would make it even easier yet. Plus you get the satisfaction of saying you designed and built it fully yourself. Two friends came over to check it out yesterday and they were blown away! So ya... I wouldn’t pay a shop to cut the panels unless you’re all thumbs with a saw
  6. I have the blue/black sky high wire. Great stuff... no complaints at all and worth every penny. Never used the clear/smoked twisted stuff from KnuKonceptz. Kinda curious to see what you think of it.
  7. Just be careful. Baltic Birch is different from regular Birch, and has different grading standards and sizes. Baltic birch is graded B/BB at the highest,to BB/CP (includes patches) and C/C at the lowest. Standard Birch is graded A/B down to C/D. Baltic also tends to come in 5 foot increments as opposed to standard Birch that's in our usual 4x8 sheets. (grades are for front/back faces) The Baltic stuff tends to be nicer, with no holes in the core, marine grade glue between the veneers, etc... however there's nothing wrong with good A/B grade standard Birch. I can not get the Baltic s
  8. The new version of Google Sketchup. I've never wanted to choke my monitor with it's own cords and then throw it out the window so badly as when using that torture device of a program. FAAAAACK!
  9. Hey Triticum... could use a little more help for a second. Here's a quick and dirty hand drawn sketch of a T-Line to scale, and I am wondering how you would calculate the overall length of the line with a sub blocking the line in this way. Basically the sub needs almost 8 inches of mounting depth, but the port is only 4 inches wide, so to get a nearly flush mount, the sub blocks two levels of line, and creates an opening 3 times the size of the line. Where do I start measuring the line? Do I basically consider the area the sub takes up an enclosure, and only measure pure transmission lin
  10. ^^^ That method by BareVids is awesome. I use a tone generator on my phone and it is louder than any recording I have. You can get a 3.3mfd cap on amazon for under 5 bucks, and if you have a spare small speaker lying around, I suggest trying it... if even just for shits and giggles.
  11. Snowdrifter, that's exactly the kind of answer I was hoping for! Thank you!!
  12. Hey everyone, I'm trying to set my crossovers but I don't have a CC-1 or an RTA... Is there a trick for doing it "by ear"? My head unit is a Sony MEX-XB120BT and has settings for 1st, 2nd, and 3rd order at multiple set points all 20hz apart (though I don't know if it uses Linkwitz or Butterworth crossovers... if anyone knows please chime in), and my amp is a Kenwood Excelon 501, and has a continuously variable x-over knob. I'm not trying to match frequencies perfectly like when you're running multiple bass amps... I just want my lows and highs to blend nicely at the selected freque
  13. Holy cow I finally got a little time to watch some tutorial videos on HornResp, and WOW is it powerful! I just modeled my sealed box to compare the output chart to the T-line, and holy cow I can't wait to build one now! Thank you SO MUCH for all your help! Another quick question. According to the driver displacement chart, it's going to exceed the Xmax around 25Hz, and at 20 Hz and below it's exceeding it drastically. I have some music with extremely low frequency sweeps in it... How worried do I need to be about bottoming out the woofer and damaging it? Also the excursion
  14. Thanks, man! That looks mighty peaky... Based on that graph, do you think it will sound good?
  15. Jesus... that thing makes my BMW M5 look like a slouch! Those cars are practically standing still as you pass!
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