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if he says hes blowing the dome light fuse.. wouldnt that have something to do with his radio wiring??

I missed that part!!! Trying to work and type of SMD ain't working out to well!! LOL

Member since 25 Jun 2006

2011 Yukon DenaliCustomLightz 4300K HID RetrofitEsky TailsEsky Third BrakeEsky 22sEsky Appliques

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first of all i have a 1996 cadillac deville that i just upgraded the big three and put an aftermarket alternator got all my rcas and 2 runs of 0 awg and speaker wire ran. keep in mind that there are no amps hooked up just all the wires ran to the trunk. i have pulled EVERY fuse out the car and i still get like 2 volts with a muti meter from my negative on the battery to the ground wire. what could possibly be the problem.

I say start from scratch. Explain your big three upgrades and also are your 2 run of 0awg and RCAs currently connected to anything (ie. Battery, head unit, etc). Also measure your voltage on the ground side with the ground connected to the battery. In other words measure in parallel, not in series and let us know what you get. Make sure the meter is on DC Volts!!!

Member since 25 Jun 2006

2011 Yukon DenaliCustomLightz 4300K HID RetrofitEsky TailsEsky Third BrakeEsky 22sEsky Appliques

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Well I did what you said with it on amps and nothing came up with the alternator but here's the twist I left the alt power wire in pluged and tested neg to neg and got a .27 then I plugged the alternator power wire in and test it again on negatives and got a .60

If your meter was set to amps, it is telling you that your alternator is drawing .6 amps with the car shut off. This is what i was talking about, the alternator is being excited when the key is in the off position, and that is what is killing your battery.

Try charging up the battery completely and disconecting the alternator. Let is sit overnight and see if the battery gets run down with the alternator disconnected.

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Yea its .27 and .60 and on the positive.

The dome light was blown before this drain on the battery and the headunit installed I installed the head unit after couldn't figure out the drain.

The two runs of zero awg are not pluged in to nothing and the rcas are just plugged in to my headunit. no amps or subs are in the car

The big 3 is positive battery to to positive on alternator, negative battery to engine block, negative battery to frame

Edited by caddylac
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How would I fix an excited alternator but I will try that tonight

It could be that it has the wrong regulator in it and it is putting constant power to the L terminal of the alternator plug, or it could be a faulty alternator. No way to know untill you perform that test.

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bought me a new charger think my old one went to shit. i need to go get a optima to put up top then im gonna do some more testing this might be as stupid as a bad battery. i was gonna get a new battery anyways. cuse now my battery wont even hold the charge un plugged. i cant get charged up enough to start the car. dont trip you guys im gonna keep you posted just been busy.

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a little update, got tired of messin with it so i took it to are mechanic and told him about the upgrades. he said he put a fuse in the fuses that kept blown and the lights worked when i picked up the car he said he think i pinked a wire that it my go out later and it did. then he said the alternator was no good he said he tested it and put loads on it several times and some time it did find others it didnt he said it would say that it had bad diodes then next time it wouldnt so i had him put back the og alternator to get me rollin i guess i will have to take my BRAND new alternator in to a speacilty shop and see if its a quick fix cuse i heard its hard to get a hold of iraggi.

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