David Posted July 10, 2008 Report Share Posted July 10, 2008 its an oak dowel you will need that for bracing BTL= brutal Bone crushing bass hahaha, trust me brace that bitch up hella good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
javy101 Posted July 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2008 what type of bracing should i put in it i already going to have it double 3/4 and a little later i will rhino line the box for extra strength Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
javy101 Posted July 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2008 what type of bracing should i put in it i already going to have it double 3/4 and a little later i will rhino line the box for extra strength Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Decaf Posted July 10, 2008 Report Share Posted July 10, 2008 just wondering how is the port depth 29 while the whole box is only 22 depth goes in 15.5" then turns 90 degrees and 4.5" more to equal a total port length thru the middle of the port of 29" rhino liner doenst necessarily make it stronger.... it seals and adds mass which raises the woods resonant frequency.... a couple 1"+ hardwood dowels will do the trick just like in the pic but add one vertically right next the the one going horizontal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
javy101 Posted July 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2008 (edited) INSTEAD OF RHINO LINER WHAT SHOULD I DO THE EXTERIOR THEN ALSO WITH THOSE DOWELS WOULD YOU JUST SCREW THEN IN OR GLUE ? Edited July 10, 2008 by javy101 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toxiccasper Posted July 10, 2008 Report Share Posted July 10, 2008 glue and screw them in. And you will need more than what I did it was just a quick sketch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
javy101 Posted July 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2008 (edited) YA SOMEONE ELSE TOLD ME THAT I NEEDED TO PUT ANOTHER ONE VERTICALLY RIGHT NEXT TO THAT ONE. I ALSO WANTED TO ASK ABOUT HOW YOU WOULD DOUBEL THE WOOD SHOULD I MAKE THE FIRST LAYER OF THE BOX THAN PUT ON THE OTHER SHEET OF MDF OR SHOULD I FIRST DOUBLE EACH OF THE WOOD PIECES FIRST THAN PUT THE DOUBLE SHEETS TOGETHER. I WAS LOOKING AT THE SKETCH ( WHICH IS VERY HELP FUL) AND NOTICED THAT THE SUB IS NOT CENTERED COULD I MOVE THE SUB OVER SO ITS IN THE MIDDLE OF THE BOX AND IF SO WHERE WOULD I PUT THAT ROD FOR THE BRACING Edited July 10, 2008 by javy101 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Decaf Posted July 10, 2008 Report Share Posted July 10, 2008 use an even amount of glue spread everywhere and clamp or put a bunch of weight on it and just use the doubled piece when contructing it instead of contructing it and adding another on the outside the sub should use the air most effeciently in the position in the sketch but you can move it if you want... no that big of a deal... plus its stronger near a corner so that helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toxiccasper Posted July 11, 2008 Report Share Posted July 11, 2008 I move it the side so it uses the air better, plus it makes it so the dowel rod bracing are in the middle of the biggest sheets which is also the weakest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
javy101 Posted July 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2008 I move it the side so it uses the air better, plus it makes it so the dowel rod bracing are in the middle of the biggest sheets which is also the weakest What if i put the sub in the other corner as far away from the port as i can there it is near a corner. would the sub use the air good here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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