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Building A Wall, Help?


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Hey guys, I'm new to these forums, and kind of new to Car Audio, I've been doing it for about a year and half now, and i've finally decided to go big with my current set up, (2) 15" Memphis M1's, and a Hifonics BXi 2608.

I'm gonna build a wall, But I had some questions and hope you guys will be able to assist me.

First off. Does my enclosure have to be ported?

Second, Does the trunk need to be completely sealed off behind the wall, IE: No air able to flow into the trunk from the cab.

3rd Does it have to be completely fiberglass? Or can I just use MDF and make that look good, Or is fiberglass recommended?

I would really appreciate any help, and I will most definitely post pictures of the build when I start this weekend. Thanks!

-Jared.

Edited by Jared
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ok...

1. the enclosure does not HAVE to be ported, but most people run ported walls. Most people I see running sealed walls are people running a shit ton of speakers, like Randy (assman).

2. Sealing the trunk off completely would definately help out numbers as all the pressure created by the subs would be kept in the cabin as opposed to letting it leak back into the trunk.

3. Fiberglassing the inside of a sub box does help reinforce the box, and seal up the "pores" in the MDF. I would recommend doing your bracing and 45's, then fiberglassing over all that to help solidify it more as 1 piece.

just my $.02

My System:

Pioneer AVH-P3200BT

4-Dayton 7 inch reference series (front doors)

8-Onkyo 3/4 inch tweeters (dash)

1-Sundown Audio 100.4D (mids/highs)

2-18" BTL's (for now)

Crescendo 3kwp (for sale)

Complete rebuild coming soon...

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Now when you say a 2000W amp, are you talking about the Hifonics amp you mentioned after it or two amps?

I don't recommend running 2 M1s on 2000W. They really aren't that great of a sub IMO and they can't take much more than 500 a piece. I would even recommend less since you're new to car audio. Depending on the coils try to wire to a 4-ohm total load to be safe with that amp. I just don't want to see you blow them before you can run them.

Your enclosure does not have to be ported, but it's probably better for those subs if you did. Call Jay at Memphis and have him give you some specs on the box. PM me for a number if you don't have it.

For optimal sound, your best bet is to seal off the front face of the wall from the back of the car. What kind of wall are you doing? Just a flat forward facing wall with a port, or something different?

For those subs, you really dont need any fiberglass. It always helps in solidifying the box, but it's not necessary at low power. It's really your call on that. You can just build a box with a port and make a front fascia out of MDF that conforms to your car to create the "wall" effect.

Need an install? Hit me up.
[email protected]


Got car audio questions? Check here first!
Everything you need to know. =]

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/83029-everything-you-need-to-know/

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if you want to wall it, pick up two more of those and do all 4 on 2kw, thats 500 ea , just my opinion tho

Team Deadly Hertz

1997 GMC 1500

Update....

System is gone

Motor is fucked

Truck is down and out for a while

Myspace

YOUTUBE

My Build

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I dont really see a problem with walling off a pair of M1's. Overbuild the wall now, so when you want to upgrade to higher power subs (Which you will) then all you have to do is swap them out. No point in building a box now, then doing a wall later, when you obviously have the time and resources to do a wall now.

My System:

Pioneer AVH-P3200BT

4-Dayton 7 inch reference series (front doors)

8-Onkyo 3/4 inch tweeters (dash)

1-Sundown Audio 100.4D (mids/highs)

2-18" BTL's (for now)

Crescendo 3kwp (for sale)

Complete rebuild coming soon...

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I really did think about doing 4, But once I get into running 4 of them, Does that require like extra batteries and things like that? I could install a cap, But I dont think my alt is powerful enough to run another battery. and I dont know where to get after market alternators around here.

I'm really wanting to Upgrade to BTLs, I've got around 400 saved up so far. But while i've got off time I would really rather get the wall done now. and then when I do wanna upgrade it could be a quick swap out.

Thanks guys for all your help.

I just have the hifonics amp.

On the wall, I'm planning on having the subs facing towards the windshield, and have the port at the top. But if anyone has any suggestions on how it should be done that would be great.

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I really did think about doing 4, But once I get into running 4 of them, Does that require like extra batteries and things like that? I could install a cap, But I dont think my alt is powerful enough to run another battery. and I dont know where to get after market alternators around here.

I'm really wanting to Upgrade to BTLs, I've got around 400 saved up so far. But while i've got off time I would really rather get the wall done now. and then when I do wanna upgrade it could be a quick swap out.

Thanks guys for all your help.

I just have the hifonics amp.

On the wall, I'm planning on having the subs facing towards the windshield, and have the port at the top. But if anyone has any suggestions on how it should be done that would be great.

Four would honestly be better with those M1s. Like said above ^ just build it as if it were for very powerful subs so when you upgrade you will just swap out. i.e. brace the shit out of it. Look at Steve's Tahoe box and Hoopty build and grab ideas from that as far as how to brace.

As far as batteries and alts go, we need to know what kind of car you're in. I ran my first wall on stock alt with two extra batteries under the wall 2000W. But it all depends on the type of battery and the current your alt is rated at. Someone here WILL know what you're running if you say what you're driving.

And when you upgrade to 4 BTLs, you planning on adding more amps, batteries and alternators right? That'll be an 8k - 16k system if done right.

Need an install? Hit me up.
[email protected]


Got car audio questions? Check here first!
Everything you need to know. =]

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/83029-everything-you-need-to-know/

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I'm in a 96 Chrysler Sebring Coupe. I was talking to a guy a while back and he said he should be a 200 amp alt. But I honestly dont know if that would be enough to run extra batteries. I've also made a small plan of how I wanted it to look.

I'm seriously just thinking about upgrading to BL 15's after reading some people's comments.

4954efcf2f78e.jpg

I'm gettin ready to go buy everything I need to build the enclosure.

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I'm in a 96 Chrysler Sebring Coupe. I was talking to a guy a while back and he said he should be a 200 amp alt. But I honestly dont know if that would be enough to run extra batteries. I've also made a small plan of how I wanted it to look.

I'm seriously just thinking about upgrading to BL 15's after reading some people's comments.

4954efcf2f78e.jpg

I'm gettin ready to go buy everything I need to build the enclosure.

I doubt the stock alt is 200A. If it is then more power to you and you'll be fine with extra batteries and 2000W

Bls are a lot better choice for your application and will sound very good.

Just remember if you don't brace your box, it will just flex to shit and rip apart and the whole setup will be a complete waste.

Need an install? Hit me up.
[email protected]


Got car audio questions? Check here first!
Everything you need to know. =]

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/83029-everything-you-need-to-know/

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