Graph1cz Posted February 24, 2009 Report Posted February 24, 2009 positive power wire? or positive speaker wire? and by jump it you mean put the two together in the remote turn on hole?Sry, I thought I knew a lot of this stuff, but I've NEVER heard of this method put a small wire from your 12+ to your remote and itll be like a constant remote, amp wont turn off just see if itll play that way/turn on that way Quote
rumproast789 Posted February 24, 2009 Author Report Posted February 24, 2009 put a small wire from your 12+ to your remote and itll be like a constant remote, amp wont turn off just see if itll play that way/turn on that way AHHH, okay, I get it now. I'll try that after I get the fuse if it doesn't work. Quote 2002 ford explorer 200 amp rewound alt single 18" Fi btl fully loaded 2 1750's 2 c&d tech 88amp/hr batts 2 ought wiring cdt component set up front, cdt coaxials in back Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X693
ptcary Posted February 24, 2009 Report Posted February 24, 2009 I don't believe any Pzi amp is 1 ohm stabe let alone 0.7. Quote PTCary 2003 SMD PT Cruiser 2011 Honda CBR 250R 2010 Mazda 3i Sport MY BUILD LOG
rumproast789 Posted February 24, 2009 Author Report Posted February 24, 2009 (edited) I don't believe any Pzi amp is 1 ohm stabe let alone 0.7. The websites I look at say it is.., the newer version people say they have it working on 1 ohm. Maybe since this is the older it doesn't work. A member at *** said this "Dual 2 ohm coils should read like 1.6-1.7 ohms per coil when you hook them up to the DMM. So if you check them with the coils wired in parallel already, it should be about .7. But every sub that's dual 2 ohm and wired in parallel is 1 ohm at the amp." So it's not really at .7 at the amp I guess Okay update. I got a new fuse, little bit different, didn't seem like it went in all the way, but same fuse rating same type. Plugged everything up and it didn't turn on. I tried shoving part of the power wire into the remote turn on so its always on to see if it turns on and it didn't turn on. I got 12 v at the amp, and 12v with the remote turn on (with the part of the power wire in it) and still didn't light up or play. With the remote turn on it didn't play or light up. settings all the way down nothing worked. This worked on my 2 previous set ups, i don't know why these wires wouldn't work. The wires were also originally installed with this amp, so IDK what happened. Help guys... Edited February 24, 2009 by rumproast789 Quote 2002 ford explorer 200 amp rewound alt single 18" Fi btl fully loaded 2 1750's 2 c&d tech 88amp/hr batts 2 ought wiring cdt component set up front, cdt coaxials in back Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X693
rumproast789 Posted February 24, 2009 Author Report Posted February 24, 2009 btw, this member at caraudio has said that he ran his at 1 ohm... http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=375427 Quote 2002 ford explorer 200 amp rewound alt single 18" Fi btl fully loaded 2 1750's 2 c&d tech 88amp/hr batts 2 ought wiring cdt component set up front, cdt coaxials in back Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X693
rumproast789 Posted February 24, 2009 Author Report Posted February 24, 2009 Triple post sry Also, the remote wire only read about 2-3 volts.... Quote 2002 ford explorer 200 amp rewound alt single 18" Fi btl fully loaded 2 1750's 2 c&d tech 88amp/hr batts 2 ought wiring cdt component set up front, cdt coaxials in back Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X693
Boon Posted February 26, 2009 Report Posted February 26, 2009 Disconnect the power wires from the amp. Set your multimeter to ohms and put it across the power terminals. If it goes very low then slowly rises your amp might be ok. If it stays at 0 you've blown the power supply section of the amp. Quote 10.x volts fo' life!
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