Boon

If your box is built right it will take a sh!t on him. For some reason DD = Auto-loud. And as for the paper cone... the 35 uses the same cones as the 95, on the new ones it's a kevlar blend I do believe. Rather than plain old pressed paper.

If you get into heavy clipping when burping you will see resonance nodes on the termlab's frequency graph at 1/2, double and 4x the frequency you burped at. So if you do a clipped burp at 50hz you'll see little bumps at 25hz and 100hz, if your termlab is set to measure that high.

Probably a FET has snapped off the board and is being held in by the clips. Just my guess. But yeah... no scope, no hope.

Hard to say which section of the amp those parts are in but chances are something in the drive circuitry is broken. If you don't have a scope, it's a paperweight. (And I think they're surface mount for all the little bits in those amps, so good luck with that unless you have rework equipment)

They're all subwoofers, I wouldn't run a single one of them for midbass. Something like the 8" drivers from DLS, yes.

Here's the big reason setting off car alarms is dumb (aside from the fact that it's an asshole thing to do) When car alarms go off for false reasons, people stop paying attention to them. When people stop paying attention to them, they stop having a point. If I rolled through your neighbourhood bassing and set off a few alarms, then came back 10 minutes later and broke into your car, how many of your neighbours do you think would assume it was just bass again?

I've run way more power than that off a single Yellowtop. You'll be fine, but you'll do better if you get an additional battery.

It's some cheapy sub that ripped off the neo-stack motors. They're just ferrite rings in a stack, I'm 99% sure. Don't just dive in and build them into 18's, they might not have the motor force to move that much mass/air.

That kind of thing is generally frowned upon around here... as said above, go throw them through a window and the alarm will probably go off right away.

If it looks so small, how come it's louder?

Assuming the channels (and the coils for that matter) were perfectly matched? The sub wouldn't move. Depending how much power you gave it it would either sit there and do nothing or eventually get hot and smoke. Real world says there would be slight difference between the coils so the sub would just play very very quietly, unless you had enough power to cook it.

Err... do you have the heater on? Fans? That kind of thing... you would be surprised how much they suck.

eeeeer......... From the looks of that cap I'm not super certain that it's a polarised cap. Being 250v it may be in the output section for filtering. Can you get pics of the old one from both sides? If it's meant to be non-polar and you put in a polarised one bad things will happen.

It's a 100Ah battery so it's about equivalent to 3 stock batteries. It shouldn't be going flat over a couple of days unless it's completely ruined from being run flat several times, or there's something staying on in the car. Switch it all off then go around all the bits and pieces and look for lights staying on on the amps or the playstation or something.

If you can't find a 12v, go check your fuse panel. If there's been bare wires chilling in there for a while one is bound to have shorted and popped a fuse or 2.

Is he the guy that was involved in some dodgy dealings? Or was that Just1MoreAmp? Can't remember quite off the top of my head.

They're very legit. Tripath chips are excellent. I might grab 1 or 2 to play with. They do 75w @ 4 ohms @ 1% THD and ~150w into 2 ohms. They use a regulated variable duty power supply as far as I can tell to keep the rail voltage constant regardless of input - the same as Soundigital amps.

Open one up some time and check out the soldering... it's not flash. Flux everywhere, dodgy joints... I wonder if maybe they hand solder them using little chinese children? Most good amps use wave soldering and only hand solder the big bits... if it's good enough for the server motherboards at work it's good enough for my amps...

For an Audi that new? Something classy... Focal, DLS, Hertz. Not something that will rattle it to bits. Maybe in a few years.

Do the subs go POP in or out when the amp comes on? Disconnect the remote wire from the amp for a start. At a very long-range guess it sounds like you've damaged the output filtering in it and some of the PWM drive signal is getting to your subs. Or it's leaking rail voltage somehow. Either way, your subs are being fed big squares. Possibly even got a leak from the PWM in the power section to the output...

Expect to spend $10000 for every $1000 in sponsorship you get. I'm down maybe $15k on gear and I've got ~$1500 from sponsors so far, with epic conditions on it too.

The boards in those amps are 'upside down' with a lot of heavy parts hanging off them... it's possible something like a filter coil has snapped off the board, or cracked the solder joint...

The 'lip' is in 2 pieces, they attach to either side of the 'face'. If you pulled them apart it would look like this _ | _

Correct. I always hear dumb stuff about how if you wire it wrong it will make the coil rock, blah blah... When you wind a DVC you do it exactly the same as an SVC, you just wind on 2 coils at the same time, usually from opposite sides of the coil. So the 2 coils are wrapped around each other and essentially exactly the same as a single coil in terms of power handling and all the rest. You can even run a DVC sub on 1 coil if you want and you'll probably get ~70% of the power handling of how it is normally since the inactive coil acts as a heatsink for the driven one.

Realistically if the grounds in the back are short and you're using the frame as ground you don't need anywhere near as many grounds off the rear battery. If your amps are grounded directly to the batteries in the back then you only need grounding capacity equal to your alternator output. At ~1ft long, you could use a single piece of 0ga for ~500A all day with no issues. Probably more.