Mmat 2200.1 Protect Mode..

[bossgator]

so i get home and amp is fine and all about 3 o clock.. and about 5:30 my mom wants to go out and her bf just got home from working so i go out crank truck up and i hear no bass.. and see my amp went into protect mode sometime.. how\why would it do this? im really a noob at this if you couldnt tell..

[audiofanaticz]

It could be for a ton of reasons. You really left this pretty wide open.

What kind of headunit do you have

What kind of electrical setup do you have (batteries, wire, alternator).

What ohm voicecoils are your subs, and what do you have them wired at?

Whats your bassboost set at.

Whats your gain set at?

To try and trouble shoot your problem, Id suggust disconnecting the RCA's and speakers from your amp. So you only have a positive, ground, and remote hooked to the amp.

If the amp turns on without protect, it narrows your problem down to a either a short in the speaker wires, fried voice coils causing a dead short at the amp, or bad rca cords.

Then after you disconnected the rcas and speakers from the amp and if it seems to power up fine, turn your stereo off, plug in the rca's if it goes into protect once rca's are plugged in, try a new set of rca cables.

If it powers up fine, turn the stereo off again, hook up the speakers ( do one speaker at a time) turn the radio back on and see if the amp powers up or goes protect if the amp powers up fine, connect the other sub.

Also make sure you have a good solid ground on the cars body. make sure you removed any paint on the body where the ground is to ensure a good connection.

If you have a pioneer headunit, your rca ground inside the headunit may have gone bad, try ground out the outerside of the rca cords (not the pin that goes inside).

NOTE*** make sure to turn the stereo or car off when disconnecting and connecting the rca cords and the speakers, or you will risk blowing things up.

After you tried all these. Post back with your conclusions.

[bossgator]

its sony cdx gt320, i have 4gauge wire.. i have yellow top, 1farad RF cap.. there dual1 and have them set at 1.. im going to check wires tomorrow.. its too late for me to go check because i cant find me a flash light.. i also have a power acoustik 840 4 channel amp for mids/highs.. that amp is doing good and coming on.. its just the mmat 2200.1 went into protect.. it plays music just with no bass.. to be honest.. i think its bad wires because the people who did wiring fucked me over and i havent had time to go buy new wire but will when i can..

edit: i believe its a stock alt.. its a chevy 2000 silverado..

Edited March 7, 2009 by bossgator

[audiofanaticz]

4 gauge power wire is almost cutting it close for a 1000watt rms amp let alone a 2000+ watt amp and an additional amp.

You may not be supplying your sub amp with enough power.

It may have been working previously with out any problems, but chances you have very bad voltage drop since your running a stock alternator and posibly a stock front battery with no rear battery?

Over time your amp played fine, and the voltage drops finally killed it.

How it happens is when your voltage drops your amp will still try to do its rated power, but when doing so its requiring more amperage to make its rated power at a lower voltage, the lower voltage and lack in current makes the amp play way harder. The mosfets inside the amp will be working double time trying to produce the power that it cant do, theres many mosfets all wired in parallel inside the amp and each mosfet is rated for a giving amperage say 10-20 amps per mosfet, with the lower voltage these mosfets will be trying to draw more current causing them to work harder then what they are rated for, they will heat up and burn out over time.

If you cant get your amp to come out of protect with your speakers and rca's disconnected your amp is most likely fried, and will need to be repaired, chances are it will be your power supply fets that are shot and your output mosfets will still be fine. You will need to send it out for repairs, if its still under warantee Id try contacting mmats for repair, if its not under warranty youd need to find a amp repair center..

Id suggust ARC ( www.amprepaircenter.com )

If its just the powersupply shot it will cost you $100-180 for repair, and arc will give you a 90 day warranty on the repair, as well as free return shipping. These guys do very good work too!!

Now if the amp is blown and you send it out for repair, It is needed to upgrade to a quality 0 gauge wire ( stinger, rockford fosgate, kicker, knukonceptz), Id also reccomend doing the big 3 wiring underneath your hood. (you can find more info in the electrical/wiring section of the forums, I think its stickyied so it should be towards the top of the forums).

Last but not least, You will need a good battery, in the rear of your vehicle close to your amp. Something such as a powermaster or kinetik ( i prefer powermaster becuse they are a tad cheaper in price, and they put out more power).

[bossgator]

thanks alot.. yeah im going to get new wire.. and get big 3 done. its an older mmat amp so no its not under warrenty.. im checking arc now.. if its fried ill send it to them and get it fixed.. the problem is.. my mom dont want me taking out my backseat in truck ( im still 17)and there isnt enough room for another battery.... ill check back in tomorrow after i get some stuff done and hopefully it wont be fried.. thanks again

[audiofanaticz]

Theres always room for an additional bettery, either in the spare tire well, in front of the box, behind the box, on the side of the box, on top etc. Just be sure to get a deep cycle sealed battery this way it can be mounted in any position except upside down.

Without having the proper electrical upgrade your just prone to fry the amp again

edit:

Seeing that your driving a silverado chances are its either a 105 amp alternator or 130 amp alternator (most the time its the 105 amper unless you bought some package when you got the truck that included the higher amp alternator, or you replaced the factory with a higher amp alt from autozone or some place like that).

Now your mmat 2200.1 Im going to assume is this one http://www.mmatsproaudio.com/pdfs/DHCx2200.1%20Manual.pdf

it only has 4awg power and ground inputs so your going to need to run 0 gauge from the front to the back, then buy a distubution block and place it someplace close to the amp and try to use a 4 awg wire as short as possible from the distrobution block to the amp. Or you can buy a 0 gauge to 4 gauge reducer and this will allow the wire to fit (this will be cheaper then going with a distro block), or cheapest yet is to snip some of the extra strands of wire off the 0 gauge till it fits into your amp.

Here is a user on this site that is selling 2 reducers for 10$ shipped. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=37384

I see the amp needs to be externally fuse, you should probolly be running a 150 to 200 amp fuse as close to the amp as can be.

your amp makes its rated power at 13.8 volts. mmats is a decent company and most the time their amps will do the real rms power if the electrical is there to back it.

Now you look at your alternator size, which is 105 amp, and you have an amplifier that needs about 175 amps of current to do its rated power at 13.8 volt ( and even a larger current draw to do its rated power at 12.5 volts)

With your stock battery under the hood, after about 2 or 3 minutes of playing time at full tilt your battery will be dead, and your amp will continue to draw more power then your alternator can provide your battery to keep it charged. and you have yet to figure in the amount of power needed for your other amp that powers your mids and tweets.

Seeing that you are driving a chevy, and you have absoultly no room under the back seat. open your hood and see if you have an additonal space under the hood for a 2nd battery. Most gms from 95 up have a 2nd battery tray in the front (one on driver side, and other on passenger side) this would be another good spot for a 2nd battery.

Edited March 7, 2009 by Bangin Caddy

[stayfly33]

dont mean to jack the thread but if i was to add anothr battery how would i charge it? i thought i read that you cant get a good charge from the alt alone

[audiofanaticz]

dont mean to jack the thread but if i was to add anothr battery how would i charge it? i thought i read that you cant get a good charge from the alt alone

Most stock alts will have enough extra power to charge a 2nd battery unless your driving something like a honda that has a 60-80 amp alternator.

Each additional battery takes about 10 amps away from the alternators max charging amperage.

Just wire the 2 batteries together, positive from batt 1 to batt 2, negative from batt 1 to bat 2, then run your power wire to your amp(s) from your bigger battery.

Adding a 2nd battery to a stock alt will help prolong the alternators life, otherwise your trying to use your alternator to power your amp when your stock battery goes dead within a few minutes.

You really want your alternator to just charge and maintain your batteries and have your amp draw its power from the batteries instead of having your alternator work at its max load trying to power the amps.

[SundownTL3.2]

my amp started goin into protect today

get a dmm and check ur voltage at the amp when u have it up

should see around 14.4 if good electrical

[stayfly33]

Most stock alts will have enough extra power to charge a 2nd battery unless your driving something like a honda that has a 60-80 amp alternator.

Each additional battery takes about 10 amps away from the alternators max charging amperage.

Just wire the 2 batteries together, positive from batt 1 to batt 2, negative from batt 1 to bat 2, then run your power wire to your amp(s) from your bigger battery.

Adding a 2nd battery to a stock alt will help prolong the alternators life, otherwise your trying to use your alternator to power your amp when your stock battery goes dead within a few minutes.

You really want your alternator to just charge and maintain your batteries and have your amp draw its power from the batteries instead of having your alternator work at its max load trying to power the amps.

well thats bad news for me since im looking to buy a car and have been seriously looking at some honda preludes and acura integra's

the more info i get the more it seems like one of the first things im guna have to do (or should do) is upgrade the alt