troy Posted April 3, 2009 Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 the fi requires a big amp. and the big amp requires big power. big power requires big wire. Quote retarded build on the way..... 2000 bagged s10 2 hdc3 15s aq2200 aq4x90 stinger/knu wire optima batteries 220 amp alt fosgate hu/mids and highs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J00bles Posted April 3, 2009 Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 im dumb, i didnt see that you posted a link to your amp.. a 100amp fuse would be fine for what you are doing. getting new RCA's wont matter too much, just as long as you have a pair connecting your head unit to your amp. Quote 8 DC Level 4 M2 15s2 DC Audio 5ks26^2 clamshell tuned to 30hz9 Kinetik 1400sMechman externally reg'd 340 S seriesin a 99 Jeep Cherokee Click to see J00bles' Youtube Channel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bali Posted April 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 (edited) so this or this? I think i am going to go with a single fi bl 12" now based on price, i thought it was like 200 less for some reason before.. EDIT: first link doesnt work for some reason, but it's on page 1, it's the 2 gauge kit the guy posted Edited April 3, 2009 by Bali Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J00bles Posted April 3, 2009 Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 Knukonceptz FTW. power acoustik isnt that impressive of a company to me. also, its only a few bucks more to get the 1/0awg kit.... incase you choose to upgrade in the future, you'll have the wires ready to go. Quote 8 DC Level 4 M2 15s2 DC Audio 5ks26^2 clamshell tuned to 30hz9 Kinetik 1400sMechman externally reg'd 340 S seriesin a 99 Jeep Cherokee Click to see J00bles' Youtube Channel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raytard Posted April 3, 2009 Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 rca's are necessary, but you dont need like super high end ones 90 amp draw means you can squeak by with GOOD 4g (rockford/monster/knu) or shitty 2 or 0 g(pyle/power acoustic/tsunami/installation bay) save up a little cash and do it right the first time, even if it means you have to wait a whole week extra to get your paycheck and spend the extra 20 dollars to do it right. This wire will be carrying more current than a lot of houses even use, it's something you want done right. Quote Build: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...hl=avalon+build monster/rockford/kicker/stinger cables, pioneer source, jbl highs/amps, kinetik/shuriken batts, iraggi alt, dei security, dc subs(atleast for now) Team DC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troy Posted April 3, 2009 Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 knu. Quote retarded build on the way..... 2000 bagged s10 2 hdc3 15s aq2200 aq4x90 stinger/knu wire optima batteries 220 amp alt fosgate hu/mids and highs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bali Posted April 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 they don't charge any extra at all for a bigger fuse it looks like, so should i go with a 250 lol? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Got_Bass89 Posted April 3, 2009 Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 I just posted that 2ga kit cuz thought you were on budget and was only 50bucks Shipped... Knu is better way to go for sure be like 63shipped.. But worth it... Quote Passport Build Here Alarm: Prestige APS997A 2-Way/Remote Start HeadUnit: Pioneer DEH-P6000UB Front Battery: Yellowtop Optima D34/78 Back Battery: 2x C&D Technologies High Rate Series UPS12-475FR 134AH Subs: 2x DC Lv4XL 18's Amps: 2x Sundown Saz1500's Strapped Box: 12Cubes 33hz 185sqin Port(15.4sqin per cube) Pillars: AudioBahn AS31Q Front Doors: Clif Designs TX40.5 Back Doors: Clif Designs CD50.4C Rear Speakers: Clif Designs TX46.5 Front/Rear Amp: Kicker ZX350.4 Back/Pillars Amp: Kicker ZX200.2(Looking for another zx350.4) Electrical: 1/0 Scorpion Wire 2 Runs Pos and 2Runs Ground, Knu 1/0 Flex Running to Amps ect, Big 3, JL 8Ga For Speaker Wire, Knu Karma RCA's, Scorpion Volt Meter Deadener: 100 sqft Sound Destroyer Mat And SECOND SKIN Damplifier Pro Door Pack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Got_Bass89 Posted April 3, 2009 Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 the fi requires a big amp. and the big amp requires big power. big power requires big wire. He already told you what amp he's running so the sub has nothing to do with it... He could run a 8" dc lvl 2 or mabie fully loaded fi 18 btl or shit a 22" jackhammer... Don't matter amps not changing and draw is not changing... Quote Passport Build Here Alarm: Prestige APS997A 2-Way/Remote Start HeadUnit: Pioneer DEH-P6000UB Front Battery: Yellowtop Optima D34/78 Back Battery: 2x C&D Technologies High Rate Series UPS12-475FR 134AH Subs: 2x DC Lv4XL 18's Amps: 2x Sundown Saz1500's Strapped Box: 12Cubes 33hz 185sqin Port(15.4sqin per cube) Pillars: AudioBahn AS31Q Front Doors: Clif Designs TX40.5 Back Doors: Clif Designs CD50.4C Rear Speakers: Clif Designs TX46.5 Front/Rear Amp: Kicker ZX350.4 Back/Pillars Amp: Kicker ZX200.2(Looking for another zx350.4) Electrical: 1/0 Scorpion Wire 2 Runs Pos and 2Runs Ground, Knu 1/0 Flex Running to Amps ect, Big 3, JL 8Ga For Speaker Wire, Knu Karma RCA's, Scorpion Volt Meter Deadener: 100 sqft Sound Destroyer Mat And SECOND SKIN Damplifier Pro Door Pack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bali Posted April 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 i'm back, 100 or 120 amp fuse? or bigger? or as long as it's at least 100 does it even matter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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