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Do I Really Need An Extra Battery?


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you should deff be good with what you got. if its one amp you are fine, its not tremendous power but will do the job, and as long as thats all youre runnin have no worries. now once you add another amp for your mids and so on you will need some more power, until then just sit back and relax while the bass hits.

i have a 800 watts 4 channel amp laying that im thinking on using for the mids...so if i put that one too im def gonna need an extra battery and the big 3 mod?

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i have a 800 watts 4 channel amp laying that im thinking on using for the mids...so if i put that one too im def gonna need an extra battery and the big 3 mod?

most deffinately. always think ahead cause its better to have more power than to be payin out later for parts due to not enough. again, my opinion, put your money into a good batt and not a cap.

theres always work in progress

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no capacitor

we should have a banner that says "CAPS ARE FUCKING USELESS" and in tiny print under it "unless you have electrical to back up your system and are using it to smooth voltage ripples inherent in high current usage"

for the price of a cap, get a bigger batt up front and good 0g to run to the back, and you should be fine (by good i mean name brand like knukonceptz/monster/rockford/jl...NOT pyle/tsunami/installation bay/poweracoustik/etc)

a good front batt (like they said a hc1400, or the biggest AGM type you can fit in there) and good og and a good bare metal ground are all you should need to keep that amp happy.

Build: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...hl=avalon+build

monster/rockford/kicker/stinger cables, pioneer source, jbl highs/amps, kinetik/shuriken batts, iraggi alt, dei security, dc subs(atleast for now)

Team DC

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cool...cuz i was looking at a 2 farad one for 35 bucks on craigslist...

reason for it bein 35 is its just a meter. i paid over 400 for a 10 farad rockford hybrid cap and you know what i got? a piece of junk with blinkin lights. i still shattered my alt and batt, had to rebuild my power sources cause i put too much belief into caps. i sold my car along with the set up, the set up is my avitar pic, and now am building a fosgate system, all power components driven by a 600/4 rock power amp, 1 t2 12" rock driven by a rock t1500 power amp, and am installin two kinetic batteries, one under the hood and one beside the sub. ill have it complete this sat and have vids up for proof and show. just remember to take your time and dont blow shit up. lol

Edited by stretchnutz78

theres always work in progress

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no capacitor

we should have a banner that says "CAPS ARE FUCKING USELESS" and in tiny print under it "unless you have electrical to back up your system and are using it to smooth voltage ripples inherent in high current usage"

for the price of a cap, get a bigger batt up front and good 0g to run to the back, and you should be fine (by good i mean name brand like knukonceptz/monster/rockford/jl...NOT pyle/tsunami/installation bay/poweracoustik/etc)

a good front batt (like they said a hc1400, or the biggest AGM type you can fit in there) and good og and a good bare metal ground are all you should need to keep that amp happy.

how good is sound quest for the wires? where can i get the wires you are recomending?

now for the negative do i need 0 gauge or 4 gauge is ok?

how good is audiopipe for the rca cables? not good ?

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reason for it bein 35 is its just a meter. i paid over 400 for a 10 farad rockford hybrid cap and you know what i got? a piece of junk with blinkin lights. i still shattered my alt and batt, had to rebuild my power sources cause i put too much belief into caps. i sold my car along with the set up, the set up is my avitar pic, and now am building a fosgate system, all power components driven by a 600/4 rock power amp, 1 t2 12" rock driven by a rock t1500 power amp, and am installin two kinetic batteries, one under the hood and one beside the sub. ill have it complete this sat and have vids up for proof and show. just remember to take your time and dont blow shit up. lol

damw thanks for the advice man..good thing i asked before buying that cap lol...ill just save up a couple of months then and buy me another battery if i decide to put the other amp on...

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no capacitor

we should have a banner that says "CAPS ARE FUCKING USELESS" and in tiny print under it "unless you have electrical to back up your system and are using it to smooth voltage ripples inherent in high current usage"

for the price of a cap, get a bigger batt up front and good 0g to run to the back, and you should be fine (by good i mean name brand like knukonceptz/monster/rockford/jl...NOT pyle/tsunami/installation bay/poweracoustik/etc)

a good front batt (like they said a hc1400, or the biggest AGM type you can fit in there) and good og and a good bare metal ground are all you should need to keep that amp happy.

so is there a lot of difference between buying this....

http://cgi.ebay.com/0-GAUGE-BLUE-POWER-WIR...%3A1%7C294%3A50

to buying this monster cables??

http://cgi.ebay.com/MONSTER-CABLE-25-1-0-G...%3A1%7C294%3A50

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i would say yes, just b/c its better to have some back-up. You can get a small 1 also, like one of those PM d680's for $65 and not have to worry about ur cars electrical system...

also, i wouldn't say caps are use less... id say use one if its in b/t cap or nothing

CURRENTLY UNDER RE-CONSTRUCTION

2008 Hyundai Sonata

Team T3 Audio

Team Deadly Hertz

Team SMD (Street Motivated Devastation)

Chariot.gif

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so is there a lot of difference between buying this....

http://cgi.ebay.com/0-GAUGE-BLUE-POWER-WIR...%3A1%7C294%3A50

to buying this monster cables??

http://cgi.ebay.com/MONSTER-CABLE-25-1-0-G...%3A1%7C294%3A50

yes...

in this game you get what u pay for, for the most part (that not counting retail...)

CURRENTLY UNDER RE-CONSTRUCTION

2008 Hyundai Sonata

Team T3 Audio

Team Deadly Hertz

Team SMD (Street Motivated Devastation)

Chariot.gif

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