white4d96 Posted June 21, 2009 Report Share Posted June 21, 2009 I need to change the ports on my box. I used the manufacturer's recommended 3x9 inch tube port and i get bad port noise. I was planning on upgrading to 4 or 5 inch ports. However I have a question. I read somewhere on here that running the ports inline with the woofers is a bad idea. Is this true? If so, could this be the reason I am getting port noise? If this is an issue, I may try ports up, but I would have to do some serious modifications to my car. How much space should there be between the port exit and any obstructions? Quote Too many projects, too little time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white4d96 Posted June 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2009 Anyone got advice? The port noise is driving me nucking futs! Quote Too many projects, too little time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman31337 Posted June 21, 2009 Report Share Posted June 21, 2009 Do you have some flare action going on, or is it just pvc pipe? How many ports do you have for your two subs? Quote 2 - Audiopipe AP30001Ds 1 - Lanzar Opti Scion 600.4 4 - Lanzar Optidrive 1232D's 1 - Lanzar Opti 5.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6C midbass 1 - Alphasonic PCT6551 1 - Lanzar VX830 1 - JBL 22 band EQ 1 - Lanzar SDBT75NU 1 - AudioControl Epic160 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white4d96 Posted June 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2009 Do you have some flare action going on, or is it just pvc pipe? How many ports do you have for your two subs? Right now just 3" ID pipe, no flares. I used recommendations from Crutchfield.com which were a 1-2cube box with one 3x9 port. My box has dual 1.5 cube chambers, divided with 3/4 MDF. I will take a couple pictures shortly and post them. Do you think flaring the end would make a difference? I was hoping to not have to buy more port material; my friend has some 4" ID and 5" ID at his house he would let me use, hence the idea of using those diameters. I can calculate the length needed but if you want to calculate it I am currently tuned at about 34Hz (I think its like 33.968 or something). Quote Too many projects, too little time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aznboi3644 Posted June 21, 2009 Report Share Posted June 21, 2009 flaring will help a little but a 4" round port would be much better...But fitting the length needed you would have to go with external ports Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white4d96 Posted June 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2009 I got room. May have to move my amp placement on the rack but I plan on redoing that when I get a 4-channel anyhow. Pics in just two seconds, taking the cam out now. Quote Too many projects, too little time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white4d96 Posted June 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2009 (edited) Pitchas! This is the enclosure and amp 'rack' used...a slab of MDF carpeted that my friend found in his first car and gave to me. I will be making a new rack with some leftover MDF I have hopefully soon. Pic of the ports, the center divider is centered right on that pencil line. If all else fails, I could run the ports out here: And up through here But I REALLY don't wanna have to do that if I can avoid it. I don't like the idea of cutting holes in my car. If you need any more pics let me know and I will take them. EDIT: Don't mind the chunks of MDF on the sides, they're just filling in a little space between box and wheelwell temporarily. Edited June 22, 2009 by ktownsdriftking Quote Too many projects, too little time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white4d96 Posted June 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 One more thing. Is there a way I could mount the PVC without it sagging like it did in my application? I glued and caulked the bejeezus out of it in the hole and supported the other side with a scrap chunk of MDF from my circles, but they still went funky... Also, if the port is halfway out of the box is that alright? I could do that if need be, but I don't know if that would affect how it plays or what it's tuned to or anything like that. I got a length of almost 20 inches for 34Hz on 4" ID (using the12volt.com's calculator) but IIRC my box is only 14" wide/tall inside. Any ideas? I can't afford to rebuild entirely; I have enough wood to redo a couple sides if need be but that's it. Quote Too many projects, too little time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white4d96 Posted June 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2009 Anyone got any ideas? Quote Too many projects, too little time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman31337 Posted June 23, 2009 Report Share Posted June 23, 2009 Splurge, spend the money for a new 4x8 piece of MDF, and redo the box. We can help you do a slot port. As for the port, without a lip, you have nothing really to hold it. I would have made an MDF ring and glued that to the pvc, and then glued the ring to the box. Quote 2 - Audiopipe AP30001Ds 1 - Lanzar Opti Scion 600.4 4 - Lanzar Optidrive 1232D's 1 - Lanzar Opti 5.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6C midbass 1 - Alphasonic PCT6551 1 - Lanzar VX830 1 - JBL 22 band EQ 1 - Lanzar SDBT75NU 1 - AudioControl Epic160 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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