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Help with big 3 and batts!


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Question.. Im learning cool stuff off here everyday and was wondering...I see alot of ppl including me, do the big 3 in 0-ga wire. My buddy wants to do his but his amps wont take 0-ga wire. He has a Crunch P1500.1 and a Crunch P900.4 and the biggest they will take is a 4 gauge. Does he have to do the "3" in 0-ga or can he do it with 4-ga. Also hes running a stock alt and a stock bat and wants to get a 2nd bat for the rear but hes on a strict budget. Can he use a standard bat for rear? Or can he mix and match (wet-front, dry back)?

Current Setup:

Sony CDX-7401UI

2- 12" Alpine TypeR DVC2ohm Subs

Custom ported box

4-American Bass 6.5in SQ-6B Mids

4-Pioneer TS-T15 Tweeters

2-Crunch P1500.1 Mono Amps

2-runs 1/0 GA KnuKonceptz

KnuKonceptz RCA's

1-Stinger SPV44 Battery

Coming soon:

250 Amp Alt

Custom Door Panels

Second Skin Sound Deadner

All in my 1986 Monte Carlo SS!!!

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any bigger than stock would help. some people even use 2/0 and bigger for their big 3

Yeah, i understand that, but if his amps wont take nothing bigger than 4 ga, how can he upgrade? His stock wire is 4-ga too. He has a 1999 Olds Intrigue

Current Setup:

Sony CDX-7401UI

2- 12" Alpine TypeR DVC2ohm Subs

Custom ported box

4-American Bass 6.5in SQ-6B Mids

4-Pioneer TS-T15 Tweeters

2-Crunch P1500.1 Mono Amps

2-runs 1/0 GA KnuKonceptz

KnuKonceptz RCA's

1-Stinger SPV44 Battery

Coming soon:

250 Amp Alt

Custom Door Panels

Second Skin Sound Deadner

All in my 1986 Monte Carlo SS!!!

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Share on other sites

u can get the converter thing... from 0gague to 4 i believe but 1/0 is fine in the big 3

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http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=61862

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Ok thanks fellas on the big "3" it can get confusing sometimes. Well, i still need to find out the bat question. Can he mix and match bats? (wet-front, dry-back)? He has a regular bat up front and wants a second for rear, hes not putting a huge system just a crunch P1500.1. hes on a tight budget, like $50-$100

Current Setup:

Sony CDX-7401UI

2- 12" Alpine TypeR DVC2ohm Subs

Custom ported box

4-American Bass 6.5in SQ-6B Mids

4-Pioneer TS-T15 Tweeters

2-Crunch P1500.1 Mono Amps

2-runs 1/0 GA KnuKonceptz

KnuKonceptz RCA's

1-Stinger SPV44 Battery

Coming soon:

250 Amp Alt

Custom Door Panels

Second Skin Sound Deadner

All in my 1986 Monte Carlo SS!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the great help. I loovvveee this site!!! I ll let him know!!!

Current Setup:

Sony CDX-7401UI

2- 12" Alpine TypeR DVC2ohm Subs

Custom ported box

4-American Bass 6.5in SQ-6B Mids

4-Pioneer TS-T15 Tweeters

2-Crunch P1500.1 Mono Amps

2-runs 1/0 GA KnuKonceptz

KnuKonceptz RCA's

1-Stinger SPV44 Battery

Coming soon:

250 Amp Alt

Custom Door Panels

Second Skin Sound Deadner

All in my 1986 Monte Carlo SS!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the wire size that your amp accepts has nothing to do with the "big 3". The goal is to reduce the run of wire while also increasing the wire size in the engine compartment for better, more efficient electrical flow, which means your alt will be able to recharge your batts more easily and efficiently. Your amps will benefit from this because now there will be more current being supplied to them for a longer period of time with less voltage drop..dosent matter if your amps accepts 12,8,4, or 0 gauge wire.

You can mix and match batts but its not recommended. People will say that the liquid cell battery will cause the dry cell to run at a lower voltage then it would if otherwise by itself. I personally run a dry cell in the trunk and a wet under the hood and have had no problems. If you are on a tight budget just pick up a dry cell for the rear and when you can just upgrade the bat under the hood for a dry cell also, preferably the same manufacturer.

oh and you can get reducers to be able to fit a 0 gauge wire into an amp that only accepts up to 4 gauge. You dont really need it but if you want to upgrade later on to a bigger amp then might as well just use all 0 gauge wire. heres a link to one http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Co...sid/0/SFV/30046

Edited by eliassami5

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the wire size that your amp accepts has nothing to do with the "big 3". The goal is to reduce the run of wire while also increasing the wire size in the engine compartment for better, more efficient electrical flow, which means your alt will be able to recharge your batts more easily and efficiently. Your amps will benefit from this because now there will be more current being supplied to them for a longer period of time with less voltage drop..dosent matter if your amps accepts 12,8,4, or 0 gauge wire.

You can mix and match batts but its not recommended. People will say that the liquid cell battery will cause the dry cell to run at a lower voltage then it would if otherwise by itself. I personally run a dry cell in the trunk and a wet under the hood and have had no problems. If you are on a tight budget just pick up a dry cell for the rear and when you can just upgrade the bat under the hood for a dry cell also, preferably the same manufacturer.

oh and you can get reducers to be able to fit a 0 gauge wire into an amp that only accepts up to 4 gauge. You dont really need it but if you want to upgrade later on to a bigger amp then might as well just use all 0 gauge wire. heres a link to one http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Co...sid/0/SFV/30046

Now thats great information!!!Thanks alot...

Current Setup:

Sony CDX-7401UI

2- 12" Alpine TypeR DVC2ohm Subs

Custom ported box

4-American Bass 6.5in SQ-6B Mids

4-Pioneer TS-T15 Tweeters

2-Crunch P1500.1 Mono Amps

2-runs 1/0 GA KnuKonceptz

KnuKonceptz RCA's

1-Stinger SPV44 Battery

Coming soon:

250 Amp Alt

Custom Door Panels

Second Skin Sound Deadner

All in my 1986 Monte Carlo SS!!!

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