eliassami5

i picked me up a pair of those Hifonics subs about a year and a half ago..fantastic bang for the buck. One thing i would say tho is to remove the plastic piece that covers the magnet, on high freq it vibrates against the basket and buzzes and rattles. They still pound after beating them to death. I upgraded a couple months back so out of boredum i did this to one of them: I wall socketed it first tho here it is opened up im gonna use my other one as a computer sub

Looking for 2 10's for cheap, they have to work and be in good condition. Also need a d class amp that pushes around 600-1200 Watts, something like an AQ 1200D or a HiFonics Brutus. It has to be around $150 but I am flexible deppending on the amp. Pm me for offers thanks.

how can people say thats nasty??? its a fucking heart attack but i'd eat that bish up

damn thats a lot of wood and damn thats a lot of work..but DAMN they look good lol

i shed a couple tears for you bro. I know what ur saying about tryin to be strong and trying to just keep everything inside, im the same way. But i wish you luck and stay strong

-.- this teasing stuff is getting old

i dont wanna see

Guitar Hero Christmas Lights

Screen protectors are a placebo...useless if you have a glass screen. Its almost impossible to scratch a glass screen (unless you walk around with a diamond ring or a glass cutter in the same pocket as your phone) and if you think yours is scratched then its most likely a CRACK. Small cracks look like scratches but they are under the glass and nothing you put on your screen will prevent it from cracking. I use a screen protector for nothing more than keeping down on the smudge and fingerprints. Other than that they arent worth the money. But personally i use Ghost Armor for my droid. The full body kit works beautifully and there is little to no orange peal from the film. But the best part is that it covers finger prints and smudges like no other protector ive ever seen...miles above the verizon screen protector i had a while ago.

WORLDDDDD..DD.D.D.DD.D.D.D hahaha that part craked me the fuck up lol

they have sent me the wrong amp before..granted it was better and cost a little more than the one i originally ordered, but it looked to be previously repaired since the warranty sticker on the back was cut open right outa the box. But i would still buy from them again, have bought many things from them and have recommended them to my friends.

I work in a grocery store and have to deal with people like you every day..makes me wanna jump over the counter and smack a bitch. There are times where being an asshole is ok, like in the OP's situation, and other times its just uncalled for and the person is trying to take advantage of the worker. You dont have to be an asshole to work out a situation, its often better to just talk calmly and request to see a manager, they will usually bend over backwards to keep you coming back. But back to the thread, you were more than justified in acting the way you did.

amp directly on box is a bad idea..amp on trunk lid? you do the math the vibrations will kill the amp quickly. I would mount it the to box somewhere, on the side or on the top but make sure to use rubber grommets/washers between the amp and the box to protect the amplifier from excess vibration.

Videos Uploaded: 6 Video Views: 148,054 Favorites: 232 Channel Type: Channel Views: 1,412 Subscribers: 5 Videos Watched: 24,968 i thought mine was a lot but GOD DAMN 1 million viewed? thats crazy

how many cubes is each sub getting? 10-15 sq inches of port area is recommended per cube of air space. For example: 4cu ft box would have a port size of 10x6-8x5 or any other combination that you would like. your box drawing has no depth..last time i checked 3/4 mdf wasnt .01" thick lol. And for me i like my boxes tuned low since i dont listen to much rock. My boxes are tuned to 28-33hz, currently at 33hz and love it, plays the lows and highs wonderfully. I dont compete or anything so no need for me to tune high or anywhere near my jeeps resonant freq, just what sounds best to me.

yea...now go try and buy a house or a car or apply for a rewards card at home depot or sears or get a loan...aint gonna happen without credit bud.

wow that is so nice and clean..right down to the spacing between the screws. This is my kinda box right here lol. good job

Looking for some mid range 12s that will do around 500-600 Rms a piece for about $100-$150 each. Pm what u got and ill let u know if I like it. Ty

my first l7 blew within a week cuz i didnt let it break in long enough..second l7 has been taking 1500 rms for more than a year now but the spiders are pretty much shot..there is NO resistance when you try to push it in so i'd consider it blown..still works tho. They get verry low and pretty loud compared to other 12's ive heard. They tend to shake stuff rather than pierce your ear i always thought but they do not sound great. They suck on rock music but if all you listen to is slowed down rap then get em. lol

i was responding to this part of your question

wtf at yella... anyways, i doubt the wire back in the day is any better than today's wire cuz how much better could it get? wire is wire lol. Whether it be copper or aluminum or copper clad alum, quality of the material wouldn't change.

damn got screws much?? you rly dont need that many...glue by itself is enough. But anyways sick build, lookin forward to the vids cuz this is probly gonna be my next system

i use this one but w/e floats your boat http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Co...sid/0/SFV/30046

switch the colors around? But if it was me i would do a black and grey two tone and just paint the rims a different color..

read the directions on the resin, it will tell you how much hardener to use..dont guess, if its hot out use less, if its cold out use more