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How to calculate a stock alt. power?


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edit: what do you mean "i can't use manual for stock system". the big 3 lets more power from the electrical system flow around your car.

means i'll have more power so i can't look at manual to know the exact amount of power, i'll have to measure it myself...

so what you are saying is that a little overuse won't harm a car in anyway?

im a tree hugging faggot who enjoys long penis with a side of whipped cream if you know what i mean

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means i'll have more power so i can't look at manual to know the exact amount of power, i'll have to measure it myself...

so what you are saying is that a little overuse won't harm a car in anyway?

more power is better...use the video i said AGAIN to measure how much power your alternator can handle. your never going to know by google'ing.

if you run under 12.6v, your using all of your alternator's power.

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more power is better...

i understand that! i mean if i install let's say 500w amp but my alt will produce only 400w to use for the stereo, it means it will take an additional power from battery overheating it right? so i have to check the exact amount of power BEFORE installation... right?

im a tree hugging faggot who enjoys long penis with a side of whipped cream if you know what i mean

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i understand that! i mean if i install let's say 500w amp but my alt will produce only 400w to use for the stereo, it means it will take an additional power from battery overheating it right? so i have to check the exact amount of power BEFORE installation... right?

i very much doubt your alt will only be able to handle 400rms...im pushing 600 or so on my 14 year old car's 70 amp alternator and i have no voltage drop.

the only time your battery will power your amp along with your alt is when the alt is being used up 100%. then if you try to push it farther, the voltage will drop down past 12v (normal car alternator produces about 13.8 to 15v)

im running a 1600rms hifonics brutus amplifier on a stock electrical, but im not outputting all 1600w. im only outputting 600 because i chose to. if i did all 1600, 2 things would happen. 1 would be my alpine type r would blow, and 2, my voltage would drop to probably 11v causing my amp to go into protect.

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i very much doubt your alt will only be able to handle 400rms...im pushing 600 or so on my 14 year old car's 70 amp alternator and i have no voltage drop.

the only time your battery will power your amp along with your alt is when the alt is being used up 100%. then if you try to push it farther, the voltage will drop down past 12v (normal car alternator produces about 13.8 to 15v)

im running a 1600rms hifonics brutus amplifier on a stock electrical, but im not outputting all 1600w. im only outputting 600 because i chose to. if i did all 1600, 2 things would happen. 1 would be my alpine type r would blow, and 2, my voltage would drop to probably 11v causing my amp to go into protect.

well now it makes a lot of sence... thanks!

now i got the idea... i just don't want to harm my car which is on warranty

thanks again!

im a tree hugging faggot who enjoys long penis with a side of whipped cream if you know what i mean

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the only way to get any number without trying it for yourself is:

take the output of your alternator (i looked and its around 100amps) and remove around 40amps of that power (because the car uses that while running in normal conditions)

whatever is left over (60 or so amps) is what you have to power your system with.

next you will need to figure out what your amplifier pulls (in current) to produce its rated power. my sundown SAE-1200 puts out around 1500watts on a good electrical. that means (if my car is at 14 volts) that it will be pulling around 107 amps of power. being that my car is a HONDA, i usually only see about 13.8 volts on my voltage meter because honda alternators usually charge at 13.8 rather than 14.4 like most others.

once you have figured out the total draw from your amplifier, subtract that number from the 60 amps i mentioned before. in your case (if all of my above info is correct on your car's alternator) if your amp pulls more than 60 amps, then you WILL need to get a high output alternator. i recommend upgrading the alt before you ever think about throwing in a second battery.

BUT getting a second battery means that your alternator wont work as hard to power the system. your voltage will not increase from a second battery. your alternator is the only thing that WILL CHANGE YOUR VOLTAGE. the same goes for the "big 3". you will not gain any voltage (theoretically) by doing the upgrade, but your power will flow more easily so you will notice that your battery charges more quickly.

should answer your question

*edit*

also, i should let you know that with my current system installed, im still dropping into the high 11's. i have an alternator putting out about 130amps (rated at 170pssh) two AGM batteries, and the big 3 done in 1/0. all 1/0 throughout and 8awg for speaker wire.

Edited by J00bles

8 DC Level 4 M2 15s2 DC Audio 5ks26^2 clamshell tuned to 30hz9 Kinetik 1400sMechman externally reg'd 340 S seriesin a 99 Jeep Cherokee :DClick to see J00bles' Youtube Channel

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i very much doubt your alt will only be able to handle 400rms...im pushing 600 or so on my 14 year old car's 70 amp alternator and i have no voltage drop.

the only time your battery will power your amp along with your alt is when the alt is being used up 100%. then if you try to push it farther, the voltage will drop down past 12v (normal car alternator produces about 13.8 to 15v)

im running a 1600rms hifonics brutus amplifier on a stock electrical, but im not outputting all 1600w. im only outputting 600 because i chose to. if i did all 1600, 2 things would happen. 1 would be my alpine type r would blow, and 2, my voltage would drop to probably 11v causing my amp to go into protect.

btw do use a capacitor in your system?

what change these things make?

im a tree hugging faggot who enjoys long penis with a side of whipped cream if you know what i mean

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btw do use a capacitor in your system?

what change these things make?

they dont make a difference. dont waste your monies on them.

8 DC Level 4 M2 15s2 DC Audio 5ks26^2 clamshell tuned to 30hz9 Kinetik 1400sMechman externally reg'd 340 S seriesin a 99 Jeep Cherokee :DClick to see J00bles' Youtube Channel

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the only way to get any number without trying it for yourself is:

take the output of your alternator (i looked and its around 100amps) and remove around 40amps of that power (because the car uses that while running in normal conditions)

whatever is left over (60 or so amps) is what you have to power your system with.

next you will need to figure out what your amplifier pulls (in current) to produce its rated power. my sundown SAE-1200 puts out around 1500watts on a good electrical. that means (if my car is at 14 volts) that it will be pulling around 107 amps of power. being that my car is a HONDA, i usually only see about 13.8 volts on my voltage meter because honda alternators usually charge at 13.8 rather than 14.4 like most others.

once you have figured out the total draw from your amplifier, subtract that number from the 60 amps i mentioned before. in your case (if all of my above info is correct on your car's alternator) if your amp pulls more than 60 amps, then you WILL need to get a high output alternator. i recommend upgrading the alt before you ever think about throwing in a second battery.

BUT getting a second battery means that your alternator wont work as hard to power the system. your voltage will not increase from a second battery. your alternator is the only thing that WILL CHANGE YOUR VOLTAGE. the same goes for the "big 3". you will not gain any voltage (theoretically) by doing the upgrade, but your power will flow more easily so you will notice that your battery charges more quickly.

should answer your question

*edit*

also, i should let you know that with my current system installed, im still dropping into the high 11's. i have an alternator putting out about 130amps (rated at 170pssh) two AGM batteries, and the big 3 done in 1/0. all 1/0 throughout and 8awg for speaker wire.

well it's a lot of very useful info and put well and understandable... have just one more question... can you give the spec. of your stereo so that i compare to what i'm gonna choose?

thanks a looot!!!!

im a tree hugging faggot who enjoys long penis with a side of whipped cream if you know what i mean

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well it's a lot of very useful info and put well and understandable... have just one more question... can you give the spec. of your stereo so that i compare to what i'm gonna choose?

thanks a looot!!!!

My specs would include a 130amp alternator with a kinetik hc1400 (60ah) and an optima yellowtop d51r (28ah)

I have 2 dc level 4 12" woofers with level 5 coils. They are run by a Sundown Audio SAE-1200D amplifier at 1 ohm.

all in all, my voltage drops significantly. im seeing about 1000-1400 watts out of my amplifier after voltage drop and impedance rise.

Its pretty loud, but i need another battery and a new alternator soon. its a little too powerful for my car.

to give you an idea, my alternator only produces 90 amps of power for my system (after removing the 40amps for my running car) and the amplifier is using between 83amps and 102 amps.

these are all theoretical numbers again, the only absolute way to know for sure is to get a dc clamp meter and measure the amperage produced.

8 DC Level 4 M2 15s2 DC Audio 5ks26^2 clamshell tuned to 30hz9 Kinetik 1400sMechman externally reg'd 340 S seriesin a 99 Jeep Cherokee :DClick to see J00bles' Youtube Channel

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