robola 46 Posted October 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 This is how it sits on the car, and matches the fenders pretty nice. Next thing to do is to flatten the top of the bumper, cause now you can surf on the waves... First making a little plate of 3mm thick against the hood and the 2 pieces the come under the lights. So we will have 3mm of difference everywhere at the top And when this is done, I get it back off and flatten it with the sanding block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robola 46 Posted October 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 The next day... with some metallica on the background, but the sanding block with a grain <img src='http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/public/style_emoticons/NEW/mega_shok.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt='80' /> and rubbed some bumper. First thing that came to light is that there's a big layer of gelcoat on there, witch is good in this case. After a couple of hours with the block, most of the unevennesses are already gone, and it all looked so much better. Then I started with connecting it all nicely on the car. this was easy. Sawed 3 little MDF-plates of 4mm thick. 2 for L & R under the headlights, and one for under the hood. Just taped it on with doublelayer tape Cause the hood has a bit of a rounding, I disced the plate a little, so it goes nice with the flow. After that, mounted the bumper, and put some filler on there. Now, I have to maintain this height, and work towards the front of the bumper. EASY O yeah, I also reinforced some pieces at the back of that thing, much better if you have to rubb it all. Also did a phonecall to the people who delivered me this piece of crap. Friendly asked to put my money for those carbon splitters back on my account, I'll make those myself...Then we're sure it'll fit.. About all the rest, better to shut up before I get the rest of my euro's back on my account. Then it's time for some puppetshow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robola 46 Posted October 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 The connection on the top of the bumper is OK, this fits now how I wanted it. Then I started to make a notch on top of the bumper, where the hood falls into. That something you have to put some extra time in, to make this perfect. So, mounted back the bumper, and where that notch has to come, we taped it all with tape. Mesured it all correctly and penciled it on the car. After that, pulled the tape and cut it out. Now this is my model. made another plate MDF of 4mm thick Taped this on the bumper with doublesided tape. Once this was done, I put some filler towards it. Rubbed it all down till it fitted to the plate nicely. Pulled the plate from it, and this was the result. then it was childsplay to connect the sideds perfectly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robola 46 Posted October 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 Cause on the inside, I now had a right upside,I rounded this like it is done on the original bumper For this, I used white filler instead of black one, so I could see much better if it was all straight in line with everything. Then I also discovered.......the bottom of the bumper was also tilt and crom. aaaaaarg Anyway, to make this perfect, you have to have a 100% straight table (wich hI had. Put the bumper on there, and drew it over. After that, taped the table. Now you can see how miserable it looked. Also put a pile of filler on the side, and put the bumper nicely on the table. Here you can see the result of the trick of the table A perfectly STRAIGHT bumper life can be beautiful Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robola 46 Posted October 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 Cause on the inside, I now had a right upside,I rounded this like it is done on the original bumper For this, I used white filler instead of black one, so I could see much better if it was all straight in line with everything. Then I also discovered.......the bottom of the bumper was also tilt and crom. aaaaaarg Anyway, to make this perfect, you have to have a 100% straight table (wich hI had. Put the bumper on there, and drew it over. After that, taped the table. Now you can see how miserable it looked. Also put a pile of filler on the side, and put the bumper nicely on the table. Here you can see the result of the trick of the table A perfectly STRAIGHT bumper life can be beautiful Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robola 46 Posted October 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 These are going to be the 2 CF splitters. Thought about making them in 1 piece, but stepped away from that idea. The splitters I going to make, will look a bit different then the original. On the inside, there going to flow out a bit further. You'll see what we mean further on. This is what he uses as base. The aim is now that we put some layers of fiberglass polyester at the bottom. The reason why I made this twice, is because I were afraid that he couldn't get to the inside that good. One of the main problems of this big bumper project was the license plate. What I didn't want for sure is a big plate would come before the middle whole of the bumper. The plate we're going to make for the license plate will be 28*8cm This plate of fiberglass of 4mm thick, will be my plate. You can see that this plate has the same rounding then the bumper. So lets cut 28*8 out of it. Once I has this, I puts the piece back on the bumper and pull with some filler the edges nice around the plate. So we will get an original and fine finish of the license plate What the cops will say... I DON'T CARE !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robola 46 Posted October 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 Used some more fiberglass clothing for the bottom of the carbon splitters. Made them big enough, so I could get the disc into that and see what will be a nice splitter. You see here I got much more material on the inside, so I going to let the splitters flow much more further then they are originally. This will be the license plate holder eventually. Put some little screws on the back, so I can secure it from behind, and I doesn't have visible screws at the front. Where the plate will be, I painted the bumper in black. If I puts the grey plate on there, it's more obvious to see if the plate is hanging leveled. I hate it if a license plate is hanging tilt. Here you can see how I planted the plateholder onto the bumper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robola 46 Posted October 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 Worked some more on the splitters. The model will stay like this, but there's a little more difference, tomorrow we sort that out. As you can see, I made them a bit longer, towards the middle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robola 46 Posted October 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 This oilcooler is going into the center piece of the bumper. When I bought the car 2 years ago, this was one thing (of the many) I had to have for sure. That there will be lovers & haters, works just fine for me. Here you see that I spread the fabric nicely, to get a nice connection. Added a layer of polyester/fiberglass Once removed, I edited the upside immediately with the disc. I grinded the top from in between. Then I put in between, a piece of aluminium 2mm thick. Now it’s all strong enough. Here it’s all grinded properly. These 2 pieces of MDF I made First. They will be the front of the hole. In the lower hole, will be the oilcooler, and the slot if just an airslot. Then I started to rubb the fiberglass piece so it fitted nicely into the bumper. That’s not so hard. You just pull a line with a pen on tape, then you push the piece into it, and once it’s dry, you have the same line on your filler. Then it all comes to rubbing it just towards the line. SIMPLE This is the result of the fiberglass piece, and it will be covered in carbon Then I bought a piece of aluminum of 15mm thick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robola 46 Posted October 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2009 O yeah, almost forgot, had a large block of aluminum lying aroud the place, 15mm thick. First I covered it with my mold I, that is made of MDF wood, and drew out what to remove. I sawed it out with the line saw. I’ve done a lot in my live, but there are many cooler things to do then this, pfff Once this was done, it was time for precision work. Here you can see 2 fine rubber O-rings laying next to the copy-cutter. First I put on the thick ring, so I couldn’t cut too much out. Here you can see better what I mean with that O-ring. You can see clearly there’s about 1.5mm of material away from the mold. Also you see that the cutter had here best time, time for a new one…look at those slaches. You also see that in the lines of the aluminum. This done, put on the smaller, finer O-ring, and did it all again. Now it was till 0.5mm perfect. Mounted a new cutter, who attend to tidy it all, and by using lots of WD40 I got a nice finish and result. At this picture, you really can see the difference. Here, the piece still with the MDF mold taped on it. Then, I rounded the outer sides. Harnessed the cutter, and did all that had to be done Once this was done, the “dangereous” work turned out well, and I thank jesus fort hat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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