ant the ninja Posted December 16, 2009 Report Share Posted December 16, 2009 Im extremely new to this car audio scene but I have a 2002 ford explorer, stock electrical. I have polks in all 4 doors running off the headunit and two 15' Orion XTR3's, extremely old ha. I have them running off the Alpine MP500 and it slams at at only 250rms to each sub at 2ohms but I was thinking about getting the audiopipe AP15001D, good or bad idea with stock electrical and no cap? I get a small amount of dim when the bass hits from the mp500, again Im very new at this so any help would be appreciated. Quote 2002 Ford Explorer XLT Front Stage: Crescendo CCX 6.5's Rear Stage: ??? Two 15" Powerbass M154 Audiopipe AP15001d Pioneer DEH-P5100UB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enemyofsilence Posted December 16, 2009 Report Share Posted December 16, 2009 you should be ok. what size wire are you running? Quote Team Bass-Hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ant the ninja Posted December 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2009 you should be ok. what size wire are you running? As of right now 8 gauge. I would be upping to 4 with this amp though. Quote 2002 Ford Explorer XLT Front Stage: Crescendo CCX 6.5's Rear Stage: ??? Two 15" Powerbass M154 Audiopipe AP15001d Pioneer DEH-P5100UB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enellz Posted December 16, 2009 Report Share Posted December 16, 2009 (edited) Im extremely new to this car audio scene but I have a 2002 ford explorer, stock electrical. I have polks in all 4 doors running off the headunit and two 15' Orion XTR3's, extremely old ha. I have them running off the Alpine MP500 and it slams at at only 250rms to each sub at 2ohms but I was thinking about getting the audiopipe AP15001D, good or bad idea with stock electrical and no cap? I get a small amount of dim when the bass hits from the mp500, again Im very new at this so any help would be appreciated. Dont buy a cap they dont help at all...period. First since you have a slight dim off 250rms, I would do the big 3 (Youtube search this, shows you how). Then upgrade your front battery to a beefy front battery. Maybe a Kinetik 1800, or Powermaster, or even Optima. Also 8 AWG will not work with 1500rms, invest in some 1/0 AWG for anything over 1K rms. If not expect a bong fire in your car Edited December 16, 2009 by Enellz Quote 2003 CHEVY TRAILBLAZER AKA The Batmobile Pioneer 6000UB Sundown SAZ-3000D 2 Audio Q HDC3's 40' of 1/0 Gauge 2 Big Rear Batteries A 38 HZ Box KICK ASS! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ant the ninja Posted December 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2009 Dont buy a cap they dont help at all...period. First since you have a slight dim off 250rms, I would do the big 3 (Youtube search this, shows you how). Then upgrade your front battery to a beefy front battery. Maybe a Kinetik 1800, or Powermaster, or even Optima. Yeah Ive heard caps are a waste of time, and its 500rms they dim at, 250rms per sub. I had a 10" boston acoustic in there before I threw my old 15s in and It didnt dim at all. The BA ran at 2ohms, 500rms too. Quote 2002 Ford Explorer XLT Front Stage: Crescendo CCX 6.5's Rear Stage: ??? Two 15" Powerbass M154 Audiopipe AP15001d Pioneer DEH-P5100UB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enellz Posted December 16, 2009 Report Share Posted December 16, 2009 Yeah Ive heard caps are a waste of time, and its 500rms they dim at, 250rms per sub. I had a 10" boston acoustic in there before I threw my old 15s in and It didnt dim at all. The BA ran at 2ohms, 500rms too. Subs shouldnt have any effect on the cars electrical. Only the amps current draw, but thats another story. just do the necessary upgrades and youll be fine Quote 2003 CHEVY TRAILBLAZER AKA The Batmobile Pioneer 6000UB Sundown SAZ-3000D 2 Audio Q HDC3's 40' of 1/0 Gauge 2 Big Rear Batteries A 38 HZ Box KICK ASS! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enemyofsilence Posted December 16, 2009 Report Share Posted December 16, 2009 (edited) yea do the big 3 fo sho. that will help it out a lot. and upgrade your wires to 0/1 and you should be good to go. edit: of course a battery upgrade and alt upgrade would help a lot too but with just upgrading the wires it will help. Edited December 16, 2009 by enemyofsilence Quote Team Bass-Hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ant the ninja Posted December 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2009 (edited) Thanks guys, I plan on doing the big 3 soon and upgrading the wires as soon as the funds come in. Broke at the moment :censored: Edit: Yeah I know that, ill be needing a new battery soon anyway. I doubt this one will make it through the winter. As soon as I get the money Im going to do a complete overhaul. Edited December 16, 2009 by ant the ninja Quote 2002 Ford Explorer XLT Front Stage: Crescendo CCX 6.5's Rear Stage: ??? Two 15" Powerbass M154 Audiopipe AP15001d Pioneer DEH-P5100UB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enemyofsilence Posted December 16, 2009 Report Share Posted December 16, 2009 a kit i would recommend would be the knukoncpetz 0/1 kit. its really thick and very flexible. http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KFX-PK0 Quote Team Bass-Hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ant the ninja Posted December 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2009 (edited) a kit i would recommend would be the knukoncpetz 0/1 kit. its really thick and very flexible. http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KFX-PK0 Wow thats pretty cheap for a 0/1 kit. Definitely bookmarking that and buying it after the holidays, thanks. Edited December 16, 2009 by ant the ninja Quote 2002 Ford Explorer XLT Front Stage: Crescendo CCX 6.5's Rear Stage: ??? Two 15" Powerbass M154 Audiopipe AP15001d Pioneer DEH-P5100UB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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