Ordered a 15" BL fully loaded

[Playa Named Joe]

I plan on running it off a RF t1k, puts out about 1350rms at 14.4 and my voltage usealy about 14.8ish. Hopefully this gets it moving good, if not i'll sell it and get a t1.5k or maybe a sundown 1200 or 1500 or a AQ 2200. Just hopping it likes the t1k, then I gotta get a cap or bat. not sure yet.

[Guest]

I plan on running it off a RF t1k, puts out about 1350rms at 14.4 and my voltage usealy about 14.8ish. Hopefully this gets it moving good, if not i'll sell it and get a t1.5k or maybe a sundown 1200 or 1500 or a AQ 2200. Just hopping it likes the t1k, then I gotta get a cap or bat. not sure yet.

lol @ capacitor. i doubt your voltage will stay at 14.8 unless you have a high output alternator.

[Playa Named Joe]

Lol @

lol @ capacitor.

I havn't seen any drops while bumping, only had amp wired up to 2 ohms, 850 rms, and will be wiring the BL at 1 ohm. Caps are helpful, idk why this forum is against them. For lower powered systems they can be better or just as good as a second Bat.

[Playa Named Joe]

Holy Cow there's a bunch of mis-information in this thread about caps. Caps work - period. But how? Simple . . . capacitors do TWO things:

1. Store charge

2. Oppose changes in voltage

Now, both of those things sound mighty nice to me. To understand how a cap benefits a car audio system, one has to first understand that there are TWO separate voltage plateaus available in an automobile:

1. Running - With the alternator charging, voltages will typically be from 13.8 to 14.4 VDC

2. Not running - With the alternator IDLE, voltages will typically be from 12.0 to 12.6 VDC

I'll take the higher of the two any day. For UNREGULATED amps, this allows them to draw MORE current therby making more power. For REGULATED amps, this allows them to draw LESS current to make their rated power. Either way, it's a WIN for you. So, how do we ensure the higher of the two?

Again, simple. With the vehicle running, consider the DELTA between what the alternator can make and what the nominal voltage the batteries can provide is. For this example, lets assume 14.4 VDC - 12.6 VDC = 1.8 VDC. When we exceed the current output capability of the alternator, it's voltage output is compromised. In some cases, heavy demands of amplifiers can far exceed the current capability of the alternator, leaving us with only the reserve of current within the battery. But, car batteries weren't intended to power amplifiers . . . they were intended to start cars [battery = Load with vehicle running.] A really fresh car battery can do this for a while, but given that we're exceeding the output capability of the alternator, it's charge isn't getting replenished quickly enough - need about 13.0 VDC minimum to allow charge to flow back into the battery.

A properly sized capacitor will change the rules. With the vehicle running, it stores charge at the higher voltage plateau - 14.4 Volts. As the amplifiers demand current, it will flow from the place of least resistance . . . Ohm's Law tells us that happens to be the place with the highest voltage. That will be in order:

1. The capacitor (closest)

2. The alternator

3. The battery

Ideally, you've selected the correct size capacitor for your system's needs. And . . . that "30F" cap that sells for $59 in a blue velvet box with chrome and a big blue LED readout is just a glorified volt meter These devices have ZERO benefit. There is a reason why quality capacitors cost money, and ours are no exception. These are the facts:

1. A 1 Farad capacitor can store and release 72 Joules (watt*second) of energy at 12 Volts.

2. Said capacitor can charge and discharge hundreds of times faster than an automitive battery of any kind.

3. Capacitors present nearly no load to a properly set up charging system.

4. Automotive batteries require 7 to 10 amps of current EACH to allow charge to flow into them.

5. Capacitors work GREAT for every day street systems.

6. The benefits or capacitors are negated in SPL competitions.

For best results, I recommend locating capacitors within a foot of the amplifier - as in, no more than 12 inches of wire between the capacitor and the amplifier. The further away from the amp they are, the less of a benefit they offer.

I have used them my systems for a very long time . . . since about 1986.

I will probably never listen to music with my amp on and the car off... so no need for a second battery. I would be getting a Rockford Fosgate Cap, so it won't be some cheap piece of crap.

Edited January 13, 2010 by Playa Named Joe

[__d_a_v_i_d__]

cap? naw..... bat+alt without a doubt.

Edit. i supose, alt+cap? ill do. new front bat+alt tho.

Edited January 13, 2010 by __d_a_v_i_d__

[Playa Named Joe]

I would get a new alt if I could get a legit 200 amp on for like $250, but I don't see that happening, alts are expensive. If i got a new alt, probably wouldn't need a cap or bat, but would still probably go with a cap. It'll be a while before I do any of that though.

[Playa Named Joe]

Well, this thing freaking slams, my ears have been hurting like mad for a few hours after listening to it for about 15 minutes. Never gets warm, stays pretty cold.

[rmzsuzuki89]

I like the logo on the dust cap.

[Playa Named Joe]

Thanks, it adds some dbs