ChevyBoy95

Going to a 6th sooooon.

Car audio wire almost always jumps 8 to 4 to 1/0. If you go welding cable (my favorite) you can get just about any AWG you want, 8,6,4,2,0,00,000,0000 etc. Plus, its generally easier on the wallet and 100% copper. People generally run through the firewall because most of the time it is 1 run of wire. For me, having 4 2/0 cables, it is 1000 times easier to just run it down the frame and cut a hole and grommet it in the rear somewhere. Most of the time the difference between a clean install and one that isnt is taking that extra 5-10minutes to do the "thing" you were about say "ahh, it doesnt really matter" to.

So the 4 channel is 400wrms and the 350.1 is 350wrms. Being 750w, you wont need anything more than an upgraded stock battery (or what I would do is get a small AGM to hide somewhere and use as a distribution block for the wires that will then go to the amps) and big 3 (that wouldnt really be needed). Big 3 is a logical first step that is cheap, but with that little of power draw, you probably wont see any real improvement from doing it (unless you plan on adding more later on). As for the amplifiers, you could run 4ga OFC wire and split it to 2 8ga OFC wires once to the amp if you wanted. 1/0 is dumb overkill in your jeep, and if it makes you feel better, sure run 2ga and split it to 2 4ga wires at the amps. 4ga OFC is plenty good for up to about 1500w @ 20ft. If your lights are dimming, that probably means you are dropping into the 11v range which is bad, that is a clear indicator of you need to turn it down or you need to upgrade something in the electrical system.

One thing you are missing is the fact that efficiency changes by load. Therefore 1000w @ 2ohms will not draw the same current from the electrical system as 1000w @ 1 ohm. if @ 1 ohm it is say 65% efficiency, it will take roughly 118A (assuming 13V) where as if @ 2 ohms and say 75% efficiency it will draw roughly 103A.

Nah, I just use a little band of red heatshrink or good red electrical tape.

Ive done car audio CCA 1/0, OFC 1/0, and welding 1/0 and 2/0.... I WILL NEVER go back to car audio wire. For the price, you can get 2/0 welding cable (100% copper) for around half the cost of car audio wire. Easy decision for me unless I have wire sponsor, which will never happen. EB-Flex 2/0 right now is 2.30 or so a ft and if you buy 250 worth, you get free shipping, so over 100ft for the price of some 50ft rolls of car audio 1/0 OFC.

I use flickr, Since i have a yahoo account it is free and has no adds.

240a will be fine for that setup, but like anything else, how long until you upgrade in this game? If you can, go 370a. I have regretted not going bigger in almost every situation, in the end will save you money and time.

It is still getting built, have to go onto facebook in "demo kings build and design" group to see it.

family first. I still expect you to be at the shows from time to time though...

Ill keep it on my mind. I might get a wild hair and pull a sub, it aint super difficult, just not "fun".

can they be in the box when i use it? LOL, dey heavy

Probably going to be rebuilding to a series 6th. Issue is, no real T/S on my current subs (B2 XM v1 15 d0.5's) For those who have experience with series 6ths or know a thing or two, feel free to chime in. REAR - 13.6 @ 28Hz (138sq in of port) FRONT - 18.98 @ 58Hz (511sq in of port) Power is 2 12k's (not ran full tilt though, too much power, assume 4kw per sub) and they have like 60-70mm p2p excursion. Goal is to play down to 25 with authority and annihilate low 30's and play up to about 45-50 I want the baffle flat (loading 90+ lb woofers in a flat wall SUCKS). I can also get more volume, but would like the keep the width and length to 49 for the sake of MDF comes as 49 width pieces (makes making it easy)

Look at CT Sounds T series amplifiers, generally on sale for around 100 on their site, either a 2 channel or 4 channel will do.

Ive always ran everything together and havent had issues, but AGAIN, not a SQ competitor which in that environment, it matters a TON. The tiniest changes can makes worlds of differences in SQ. Basically when current runs through a wire it generates a field which can induce noise in other lines, in a remote or power wire it doesnt matter, not a signal wire, speaker wires and RCA's it can cause small small levels of noise.