joni13 Posted January 14, 2010 Report Share Posted January 14, 2010 If youl ook at builds on here with multiple batts installed 99.9% of the time wont see an isolator thats what i thought RIP The 03 prix! New Ride 2003 Chevy Tahoe Z71 4 DC LVL 4 18s (2 currently installed) 2 DC PAI.2000 (1 currently installed) 1 DC PAI-120.4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehoe92 Posted January 14, 2010 Report Share Posted January 14, 2010 so wait...isolator or no isolator i kinda trust kasey buttt... whats the truth? kinda? I wish I would have taken a picture of the voltage for ya whats the purpose of an isolator? so you can bump with your car off and not kill your starter battery? who bumps with their car off? honestly you need all the voltage you can get, and then on top of that once your done bumpin and you turn your car back on now the alternator is struggling way more to get the battery you just drained back up just say no to battery isolators Wouldnt be thehoe92 without teh purple Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baaudio Posted January 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2010 just an update im planning on upgrading to a 200 or 240 amp alternator. Team NWSPL baaudio Build Log 2001 GMC Sierra walkthrough 4 Mechman Elite 370s, 10 AGM batteries, 3 Crossfire XS v2 18s, Crossfire 8k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nirvalica Posted January 14, 2010 Report Share Posted January 14, 2010 kinda? I wish I would have taken a picture of the voltage for ya whats the purpose of an isolator? so you can bump with your car off and not kill your starter battery? who bumps with their car off? honestly you need all the voltage you can get, and then on top of that once your done bumpin and you turn your car back on now the alternator is struggling way more to get the battery you just drained back up just say no to battery isolators Then what is the point of having multiple batteries? Shouldn't your amps draw current from the alternator? My Youtube Page. Check it out The "SAV" - Sub-aural Assault Vehicle Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X993 Image Dynamics CTX 6.5" Components Q-logic 6.5" kick pods CDT 6.5" CL-E6NEO Front door Midbass Kicker ZX350.4 Knukonceptz SS Karma 4 channel 6m RCA Fi Q 18" w/ brushed aluminum dust cap 7cu ft. ported box tuned to 28hz Sundown SAZ-1000D Iraggi 240 amp Amputator Alt Big 3 in Monster 1/0awg Second Skin Damplifier Lite on roof and front doors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehoe92 Posted January 14, 2010 Report Share Posted January 14, 2010 Then what is the point of having multiple batteries? Shouldn't your amps draw current from the alternator? huh? I'm saying if you drain a battery down to 11.3v like in my situation every time you turn your car off your alternator now has to do even more work to charge it back up bottom line don't bump with your car off Wouldnt be thehoe92 without teh purple Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nirvalica Posted January 14, 2010 Report Share Posted January 14, 2010 huh? I'm saying if you drain a battery down to 11.3v like in my situation every time you turn your car off your alternator now has to do even more work to charge it back up bottom line don't bump with your car off But I don't get why you need batteries then. If the amps were drawing power from the batteries, they would slowly drain, right? So while driving the alternator charges them, right? So unless the alternator was charging them as fast or faster then the amps were using the current, the batteries would slowly over-time get drained completely. So if that doesn't happen, that means the alternator is putting out enough power for the amps alone, so what would be the point of the batteries? My Youtube Page. Check it out The "SAV" - Sub-aural Assault Vehicle Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X993 Image Dynamics CTX 6.5" Components Q-logic 6.5" kick pods CDT 6.5" CL-E6NEO Front door Midbass Kicker ZX350.4 Knukonceptz SS Karma 4 channel 6m RCA Fi Q 18" w/ brushed aluminum dust cap 7cu ft. ported box tuned to 28hz Sundown SAZ-1000D Iraggi 240 amp Amputator Alt Big 3 in Monster 1/0awg Second Skin Damplifier Lite on roof and front doors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soulman07 Posted January 14, 2010 Report Share Posted January 14, 2010 But I don't get why you need batteries then. If the amps were drawing power from the batteries, they would slowly drain, right? So while driving the alternator charges them, right? So unless the alternator was charging them as fast or faster then the amps were using the current, the batteries would slowly over-time get drained completely. So if that doesn't happen, that means the alternator is putting out enough power for the amps alone, so what would be the point of the batteries? http://www.youtube.com/user/MaxxsonicsUSAI...u/1/H5MP5F-uJAw 1993 Chevrolet SWB Pickup Viper 791XV Primer Stage 5/8 Static Drop Kinetik HC1800 Big 3 Knu Flex 0 Team Tex Flex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nirvalica Posted January 14, 2010 Report Share Posted January 14, 2010 http://www.youtube.com/user/MaxxsonicsUSAI...u/1/H5MP5F-uJAw I've seen that video, and it doesn't make sense to me. He gave the example in the video that you have a 220A alternator, of which, the car uses 36A for it's regular driving uses. That leaves 184A for anything else. Then he says with that number, you should look for a 184AH battery. Why? AH (Amp hours) is amps discharged multiplied by the time it discharges. But unless your amp requires more then 184A to power it, why would the battery even discharge? Only reason I see a battery being useful is if you want to play music with the engine off or if your amps draw more power then the alt puts out, they can run off the reserve in the batteries for however long the batteries last or demand lasts. Both cases, the voltage would drop to around 12-13v (depending on the battery), where as it would likely be higher coming from the alt (probably in the 14v range) So if you are drawing more power then your alt puts out, wouldn't you want a new alt rather then buy more batteries? My Youtube Page. Check it out The "SAV" - Sub-aural Assault Vehicle Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X993 Image Dynamics CTX 6.5" Components Q-logic 6.5" kick pods CDT 6.5" CL-E6NEO Front door Midbass Kicker ZX350.4 Knukonceptz SS Karma 4 channel 6m RCA Fi Q 18" w/ brushed aluminum dust cap 7cu ft. ported box tuned to 28hz Sundown SAZ-1000D Iraggi 240 amp Amputator Alt Big 3 in Monster 1/0awg Second Skin Damplifier Lite on roof and front doors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soulman07 Posted January 14, 2010 Report Share Posted January 14, 2010 When your amperage demand exceeds the amount of output your alternator can produce is when your batteries would come into play simply put. Alternators don't store amperage they just continuously produce it. So according to my understanding of it.. Multiple batteries wouldn't be needed unless your amperage demand exceeds the amount your alternator can produce. Which is why some cars would stall out because there isn't enough reserve power within the battery and the alternator can't produce it's amount of power unless @ a desired engine RPM. So if my 300 amp alternator produces 150 amps at idle @ around 800 engine RPM and my battery reserve is at 88 AH on a system that requires around 400 amps @ 14.4 volts. I'm letting the hammer down but not getting max amperage from my alternator and my batteries reserve power starts to deplete because there isn't a sufficient amount of battery reserve available for it to use to produce enough power. At that point I would need extra batteries to to prevent the power output from decreasing and supply my system with more reserve power to reproduce the rated power from my amplifiers. Unless I rev the engine @ 2000-2400rpm at all times. Which just isn't convenient for most, nor is it logical. If you don't have the reserve power available. Then your power output gets decreased and you start dimming, components heat up, things start getting a little toasty, and your power output isn't clean.. there's tons of variables. Oh and about the buying another alternator part, certain vehicles, certain casings, different parts, different idle rpms, different alternator output, not enough space available to run multiple units, not good enough belt wrap, pulley sizes. There's a ton of things that act differently on some vehicles. It's ideal for most than can't fit multiple units or units that can't produce enough output to just run multiple batteries an charge them every few days or so instead. As long as you have a sufficient amount of reserve power available you are able to produce the juice for the woofas so to speak. 1993 Chevrolet SWB Pickup Viper 791XV Primer Stage 5/8 Static Drop Kinetik HC1800 Big 3 Knu Flex 0 Team Tex Flex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nirvalica Posted January 14, 2010 Report Share Posted January 14, 2010 When your amperage demand exceeds the amount of output your alternator can produce is when your batteries would come into play simply put. Alternators don't store amperage they just continuously produce it.So according to my understanding of it.. Multiple batteries wouldn't be needed unless your amperage demand exceeds the amount your alternator can produce. Which is why some cars would stall out because there isn't enough reserve power within the battery and the alternator can't produce it's amount of power unless @ a desired engine RPM. So if my 300 amp alternator produces 150 amps at idle @ around 800 engine RPM and my battery reserve is at 88 AH on a system that requires around 400 amps @ 14.4 volts. I'm letting the hammer down but not getting max amperage from my alternator and my batteries reserve power starts to deplete because there isn't a sufficient amount of battery reserve available for it to use to produce enough power. At that point I would need extra batteries to to prevent the power output from decreasing and supply my system with more reserve power to reproduce the rated power from my amplifiers. Unless I rev the engine @ 2000-2400rpm at all times. Which just isn't convenient for most, nor is it logical. If you don't have the reserve power available. Then your power output gets decreased and you start dimming, components heat up, things start getting a little toasty, and your power output isn't clean.. there's tons of variables. Oh and about the buying another alternator part, certain vehicles, certain casings, different parts, different idle rpms, different alternator output, not enough space available to run multiple units, not good enough belt wrap, pulley sizes. There's a ton of things that act differently on some vehicles. It's ideal for most than can't fit multiple units or units that can't produce enough output to just run multiple batteries an charge them every few days or so instead. As long as you have a sufficient amount of reserve power available you are able to produce the juice for the woofas so to speak. So if your system demands 100A more then your alternator puts out, I'm guessing your amps are seeing around 12-13v, right? Also, you probably need to charge your batteries to keep them from being depleted, right? I mean, this is all assuming you drive around max volume all the time. My Youtube Page. Check it out The "SAV" - Sub-aural Assault Vehicle Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X993 Image Dynamics CTX 6.5" Components Q-logic 6.5" kick pods CDT 6.5" CL-E6NEO Front door Midbass Kicker ZX350.4 Knukonceptz SS Karma 4 channel 6m RCA Fi Q 18" w/ brushed aluminum dust cap 7cu ft. ported box tuned to 28hz Sundown SAZ-1000D Iraggi 240 amp Amputator Alt Big 3 in Monster 1/0awg Second Skin Damplifier Lite on roof and front doors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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