baaudio

no

i would have largest agm possible under hood, 4 runs of 1/0 front to back (2+ 2-) and 2 group 31 agms in back

Ugh you guys have me wanting to make the inside of my wall pretty... I just don't have to motivation to do 20+ hours of body work yet

crazy... the paint job looks like photoshop in the pics lol. talk about a beautiful truck though. have fun swapping those batteries out....

155+ below 30hz fooorrrr dayyysss

i see room for batts between the amps lol. looking good man! keep it up!

I think I may have asked this before, but will these parts be able to adapt to a Nightshade V1 motor?? I have two 12s that I plan to build into 15s or 18s and would love to use these parts instead of standard soft parts

DO WANT!!!

thats great news Matt. thank you very much! i have been looking into getting a mechman alt for a while now after having experienced their great performance in my team mates vehicles. the bracket will definitely be the hard part, but i have some experience with metal fabrication and a close friend with lots of experience. im sure together we can develop something that will work.

I was wondering if you guys could give me some insight on which alternators would be easiest to integrate for my vehicle. I have to ability to make brackets to hold it and ensure proper belt wrap. What I want to know is which alts are easiest to wire in and work correctly. I plan to use a gm style alt because the mounting system makes the bracket easier to make, but I want one I can trigger with my stock ford system. My teammate has an older gm alt that has 3 wires in the plug, he connects one to ignition and it works great. My plan is to get one from a junk yard to mock up and get working, then replace with a high output alternative

I would say a mid 2000 suburban. You can stack lots of alternators, lots of batteries and lots of air space

well it must have some sort of plastic core because you can see chunks of glass falling....

i would double all around. i did a single on my box and it flexes like a mofo. then you could use 2x4s for bracing or, if you can weld, make some braces out of steel and paint them.

does the deck have a setting to turn off the internal amplifier? im willing to bet the dude fucked with something and now is playing dumb...

Pm sent

Ugh this makes me miss my sundown 3k... RIP...

its really crazy how the different frequencies feel. Justins blazer is pretty crazy, you feel yourself moving so much and its pretty violent. but idk if i would classify it as painful per say. the lower frequencies arent as painful as they are violent is what im trying to say. when i sat in brian butlers ranger, 149 db @ 48-50 hz it was more painful to me. it choked me out and made my whole head tingle. i think woofer placement has something to do with it as well. i think of my setup as more violent then painful but it gives me the same kinda tingly feeling in the 35-40 range. so id say ==> Violent<35 hz<Painful. i realize ill prolly get bombed on for something like that, but its a very general statement of what i have observed.

Next to XL M2. Level 6 on left, XL on right

I have a pic of level 6 18 m2 from a teammate who ran the. I will post only if I get the okay from a rep. Edit. Just remembered his were protos. So they're different then production model

still plays well, even with the amp not connected haha

Shit those woofers in working condition aren't worth $100....

Yes I meant headunit. This is good to know guys. Thank you