Decaf Posted February 5, 2010 Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 u better brace that top to bottom behind woofer, side to port wall to keep port and side wall flex down, and front to back on each side of the sub if u can since u didnt put the sub all the way to the right ur box is gonna flex if u dont brace and fyi, i broke the trunk actuator today that pulls the trunk lid down from my bass, crazy i know, ill have videos i had to weld it back together but i think its stronger than the stock one was... $550 for a new one... so be careful Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ludachris5150 Posted February 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 u better brace thattop to bottom behind woofer, side to port wall to keep port and side wall flex down, and front to back on each side of the sub if u can since u didnt put the sub all the way to the right ur box is gonna flex if u dont brace and fyi, i broke the trunk actuator today that pulls the trunk lid down from my bass, crazy i know, ill have videos i had to weld it back together but i think its stronger than the stock one was... $550 for a new one... so be careful Dayum are you serious? That sucks! Atleast u got it fixd, But I hope that shit dont happen to mine haha. So what do you recommend for bracing? Some allthread? What size, Or diameter? Rebuild in progress... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ludachris5150 Posted February 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 u better brace thattop to bottom behind woofer, side to port wall to keep port and side wall flex down, and front to back on each side of the sub if u can since u didnt put the sub all the way to the right ur box is gonna flex if u dont brace and fyi, i broke the trunk actuator today that pulls the trunk lid down from my bass, crazy i know, ill have videos i had to weld it back together but i think its stronger than the stock one was... $550 for a new one... so be careful Also i get top to bottom behind sub. front to back on the side of each. But the side to port wall? What do you mean like bracing goin thru the port? And ill pry run with dowells, What diameter? Rebuild in progress... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ludachris5150 Posted February 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 Also i get top to bottom behind sub. front to back on the side of each. But the side to port wall? What do you mean like bracing goin thru the port? And ill pry run with dowells, What diameter? Im a dumbass, Lookd at ur build and seen the bracing you were talking about. Whats the diameter? Rebuild in progress... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Decaf Posted February 5, 2010 Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 Dayum are you serious? That sucks! Atleast u got it fixd, But I hope that shit dont happen to mine haha. So what do you recommend for bracing? Some allthread? What size, Or diameter? depending on the abuse it is likely to happen over time if you dont deaden the trunk i pretty much always use 1" - 1.5" poplar/oak dowel rod... all thread is expensive and u need washers/nuts/saw blade to cut metal... seems pointless... and u can see it on the outside of the box, id rather have my bracing inside completely Also i get top to bottom behind sub. front to back on the side of each. But the side to port wall? What do you mean like bracing goin thru the port? And ill pry run with dowells, What diameter? going from the dead center of the right side panel to the inner port wall.... once u exceed 18" - 20" in wood span i always brace it i added another 3/4" mdf piece on the outside of the box to keep the outer port wall from flexing since i play below 30hz all the time... i have a friend with 2 12" aqs on sd8k and he had custom paint job in the port and it cracked from the port wall flexin... hes only doing 147s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ludachris5150 Posted February 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 depending on the abuse it is likely to happen over time if you dont deaden the trunki pretty much always use 1" - 1.5" poplar/oak dowel rod... all thread is expensive and u need washers/nuts/saw blade to cut metal... seems pointless... and u can see it on the outside of the box, id rather have my bracing inside completely going from the dead center of the right side panel to the inner port wall.... once u exceed 18" - 20" in wood span i always brace it i added another 3/4" mdf piece on the outside of the box to keep the outer port wall from flexing since i play below 30hz all the time... i have a friend with 2 12" aqs on sd8k and he had custom paint job in the port and it cracked from the port wall flexin... hes only doing 147s Cool. Im gunna go pick up some 1" 2m mornin. Whats the minimum length I want between the braces and the sub? Does it matter? I cant put the one from the side to port wall dead center because of the sub depth (Im pretty sure) but I'll tryn get as close as possible. And I know I can get one from top to bottom behind the sub. Also the front to back on the side of the sub (opposite the port) Idk about the one on the other side... Cus I cant screw it in from inside the port u know? Rebuild in progress... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Decaf Posted February 5, 2010 Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 Cool. Im gunna go pick up some 1" 2m mornin. Whats the minimum length I want between the braces and the sub? Does it matter? I cant put the one from the side to port wall dead center because of the sub depth (Im pretty sure) but I'll tryn get as close as possible. And I know I can get one from top to bottom behind the sub. Also the front to back on the side of the sub (opposite the port) Idk about the one on the other side... Cus I cant screw it in from inside the port u know? if it has a pole vent the wood should be ~2" away from that hole as long as u measure well u dont need to use a screw on the one front to back on to the left of the sub... use lots of wood glue and seal around it afterwards, i had to do the same thing because i didnt think about that either the screw merely holds the wood til the glue sets goodluck bro, any flex in ur box equals a loss of db's period, and thats no fun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ludachris5150 Posted February 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 if it has a pole vent the wood should be ~2" away from that holeas long as u measure well u dont need to use a screw on the one front to back on to the left of the sub... use lots of wood glue and seal around it afterwards, i had to do the same thing because i didnt think about that either the screw merely holds the wood til the glue sets goodluck bro, any flex in ur box equals a loss of db's period, and thats no fun Cool Cool, As always... Good lookn out! Idk if my sub has a pole vent. May have to do a little research. But we jus got another couple inchs of snow so I cant open my trunk!!! I wanna mock up bracing with the sub in the new one tho dammit! Rebuild in progress... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ludachris5150 Posted February 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2010 Cool Cool, As always... Good lookn out! Idk if my sub has a pole vent. May have to do a little research. But we jus got another couple inchs of snow so I cant open my trunk!!! I wanna mock up bracing with the sub in the new one tho dammit! Some progress pics. Again not the best looking, But its my 1st build and Ive learnd alot. Cant wait for the next build! Anyway took decafs advice and put some dowels in for bracing. Got the top on about an hour ago. Hope to have it installd early nex week if weather permits! Rebuild in progress... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ludachris5150 Posted February 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2010 TTT! Gotta little primer on it! So close Rebuild in progress... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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