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Soooo, I should take that as a yes?

TEAM FLEX ISSUES

Car: 1985 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royal

24" Rims

HU: 7" Carputer, Planet Audio EQ, iPhone.

Coax: T3 Audio 4" speakers

Subs: 2x 18" T3 Audio TSNS (walled)

Sub Amp: DC 9k

SOON TO COME

T3 Audio 6x9s

MB Quarts 6.5" comp set

MAYBE ADDED

2nd DC 9k

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If I'm wrong someone correct me but usually (It was like this on my old suburban) in the fuse box under the dash or wherever yours may be located, there are a couple slots that have constant power from the batt. where you can get whichever kind of terminal that will fit in that slot of your fuse box, and hook a wire up to it, I would make sure to definitely have like a 5-10 amp in-line fuse as close to the fuse box as possible even though I think there is a fuse in the box that corresponds to that power output, It's always better to be safe than have your wires get hot, catch the rubber housing on fire, drip flaming plastic on the carpet and ..... yeah... =@

Edited by HamillTheAnimal
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If I'm wrong someone correct me but usually (It was like this on my old suburban) in the fuse box under the dash or wherever yours may be located, there are a couple slots that have constant power from the batt. where you can get whichever kind of terminal that will fit in that slot of your fuse box, and hook a wire up to it, I would make sure to definitely have like a 5-10 amp in-line fuse as close to the fuse box as possible even though I think there is a fuse in the box that corresponds to that power output, It's always better to be safe than have your wires get hot, catch the rubber housing on fire, drip flaming plastic on the carpet and ..... yeah... =@

Now this really helped, well it helped me at least. I need to look to see if this works in my car.

Thanks.

TEAM FLEX ISSUES

Car: 1985 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royal

24" Rims

HU: 7" Carputer, Planet Audio EQ, iPhone.

Coax: T3 Audio 4" speakers

Subs: 2x 18" T3 Audio TSNS (walled)

Sub Amp: DC 9k

SOON TO COME

T3 Audio 6x9s

MB Quarts 6.5" comp set

MAYBE ADDED

2nd DC 9k

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Now this really helped, well it helped me at least. I need to look to see if this works in my car.

Thanks.

Yeah check first, It was way easier to do anything on my old suburban, with all the plastic crap and everything in each others way now days, I liked it when everything was right in front of you, and didn't have to pop of a plastic plate and the third time it breaks... lol ... but yeah, what I'm gettin at is I havent even looked at my new truck to see if its the same way, and I don't know if they have vehicles wired like that anymore, I'm sure they probably do but it's more than likely about 5 time more a pain in the ass just trying to figure out which one could possible be the constant...... oh well you could get one of those little power things , it has a ground clip on one side attached by like a 2 ft wire and the other side kinda looks like a clear screwdriver with a red and a green light in it,,, but instead of flat head or Phillips it has a piece of metal like a nail comin out, so when you touch a terminal it will either light up green or red depending if its negative or positive power running through the circuit you just created....

Edited by HamillTheAnimal
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Yeah check first, It was way easier to do anything on my old suburban, with all the plastic crap and everything in each others way now days, I liked it when everything was right in front of you, and didn't have to pop of a plastic plate and the third time it breaks... lol ... but yeah, what I'm gettin at is I havent even looked at my new truck to see if its the same way, and I don't know if they have vehicles wired like that anymore, I'm sure they probably do but it's more than likely about 5 time more a pain in the ass just trying to figure out which one could possible be the constant...... oh well you could get one of those little power things , it has a ground clip on one side attached by like a 2 ft wire and the other side kinda looks like a clear screwdriver with a red and a green light in it,,, but instead of flat head or Phillips it has a piece of metal like a nail comin out, so when you touch a terminal it will either light up green or red depending if its negative or positive power running through the circuit you just created....

I'm working on a 1985 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royal so I don't have to worry about these new car's BS.

Lol

And yeah I have one of those things you're talking about, I was actually gonna check just about every wire I saw to see if I could use it.

TEAM FLEX ISSUES

Car: 1985 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royal

24" Rims

HU: 7" Carputer, Planet Audio EQ, iPhone.

Coax: T3 Audio 4" speakers

Subs: 2x 18" T3 Audio TSNS (walled)

Sub Amp: DC 9k

SOON TO COME

T3 Audio 6x9s

MB Quarts 6.5" comp set

MAYBE ADDED

2nd DC 9k

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Share on other sites

make sure your key is in the off position, I'm sure you know that but just makin sure, cause if u got the key on and find a good wire, more than likely when the key gets turned off it will disconnect power to that wire... I think there were only 2 in my old burban that were constant, the fuse box was on the driver side under the dash and they were some where along the top..... actually there may have been more than 2, but those were the 1st two I found and used.... now I'm not sure if this is the easiest or the best way, it's just the way I found out how to do it through trial and error kinda, I'm sure there is a more common way that is used, but thats the way I did it because when I got my suburban there was no radio and no wires to be found where the radio goes, so I had to run everything my own way... I blew so many fuses because before I bought my little circuit power thingy I would just touch the wire to metal to see if it sparked and then I'd know it worked ... lol

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