Got a few questions that need answered!!!HELP!

[davewms9605]

Ok fellas, I need some questions answered so I can get the ball rolling on my new project:

1. Is there a cheaper alternative to Dynamat and Second Skin? Maybe some kind of spray?

2. Since im new at buildings boxes, what materials would I need to build a common chamber box?

3. Is there a manual way to properly gain match two amps without the electronic stuff?

4. I see alot of people use nuts and bolts for their speaker terminals, which is the best kind?

5. Where is the best place to put grounds in the trunk of a G Body; i.e. 86 monte carlo?

Im doing a budget system so please feel free to help a brother out!!!!

[kmalinich]

Ok fellas, I need some questions answered so I can get the ball rolling on my new project:

1. Is there a cheaper alternative to Dynamat and Second Skin? Maybe some kind of spray?

2. Since im new at buildings boxes, what materials would I need to build a common chamber box?

3. Is there a manual way to properly gain match two amps without the electronic stuff?

4. I see alot of people use nuts and bolts for their speaker terminals, which is the best kind?

5. Where is the best place to put grounds in the trynk of a G Body; i.e. 86 monte carlo?

Im doing a budget system so please feel free to help a brother out!!!!

A lot of your answers can be found at http://spkrbox1.spaces.live.com/ It's a website ran by a really smart guy named Sparky.

1. Sure there is a million cheaper alternatives... just nothing that compares performance wise. I think Home Depot makes some nasty stuff that works okay.. maybe someone here remembers the name...

2. Box materials - these are all available at Home Depot.

• 3\4 inch or 1 inch MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) Unless you're doing 15s or 18s, you can go with 3\4 inch.
  
• 2 or 3 inch deck screws.
  
• Copious amounts of wood glue. I prefer the Elmer's Gel wood glue. It's cheap and it gets-er-done.
  
• Proper design above all!! There's a lot of guys that can help you out on here if you have trouble.
  
• Woodworking equipment to build it. Table saw, router, sander, round over bit, tape measure, t-square.. probably other tools, can't remember
  

3. Use a DMM (digital multi meter) and a test tone at 60Hz to set the gains. The test tone is available from the Realm of Excursion web site in their downloads section or in Sparky's excel file. He has information on properly setting gains using a DMM. You would just repeat on the second amp.

4. As far as nuts and bolts as terminals.. Ideally you'd use copper posts and nuts.. but that's not really possible. I'd say whatever's available at Home Depot unless it's a really high power application where every watt is important.. then I'd invest in some thing thicker..

5. The best place to ground anything is the frame..bottom line... if you want the best possible ground, you should drill through the trunk floor, find the frame, grind away any debris, paint, and dirt, and attach your ground directly to it. make sure to put a rubber grommet around the wire where it comes through the floor.

What amp, head unit, speakers, subs, and box style are you using?

[davewms9605]

Im working with 2 crunch P1500.1 amps for 2- Alpine typer 12's, a 4ch amp for the mids and highs, a Sony CDX-GT740UI for the deck, and i wanted to do a common chamber ported box for the subs, port and sub back towards trunk

[kmalinich]

Im working with 2 crunch P1500.1 amps for 2- Alpine typer 12's, a 4ch amp for the mids and highs, a Sony CDX-GT740UI for the deck, and i wanted to do a common chamber ported box for the subs, port and sub back towards trunk

sounds good to me bro. for a car subs back port back is usually the way to go.. if you put the subs closer to the trunklid, it's usually louder, but not as deep. but by like 2-4 Hz .. thats it.. only enough for people like me to notice.