GORILLAslap Posted April 28, 2010 Report Share Posted April 28, 2010 i think we should pin this strapping amps u know i know i didnt have an idea how to strap amps till i read this starting fresh, chrysler 300.. no subs amp nothin I NEED HELP looking to purchase saz-1500d and 15" 1000rms subREFS- feedback/refs.. click! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZeFF Posted April 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2010 Id buy the D4 and wire down... Why, whats the point/advantage of this? Some subs cant be bought in D4... Pioneer x930 bt Rockford t2500 bdcp 18" nightshade v1 DC audio 175.4 RF power T162s up front, infinity 3 way 6x9's in the back (removing rear stage and re-doing doors soon) 3x XS power D2700's Knukonceptz 0awg all around Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
!!!BLINKY!!! Posted April 28, 2010 Report Share Posted April 28, 2010 If you cant it in the D4 then go the other way.. It just takes more copper the lower the impedence.. Plus the sensitivity is higher on the higher impedence... Just my opion but higher sensitivity + less moving mass = Louder... HU...Pioneer 5900IB Wireing...Stinger Amps...(1) Modded Stetsom 2K6.. Batts...(1) Stinger 2150 SPL Subs...(2) DD 9515 Hybrids Daily Subs..(1) Mmats P3.0 15 N.S.P.L. 2012 NC State Record Trunk 1801-3600 2012 World Record Trunk 1801-3600 2011 NC State Record No Wall 0-24" 2011 NC State Record No Wall 0-24" Hardcore 2011 World Record No Wall 0-24" 2011 World Record No Wall 0-24" Hardcore 2010 World Record No Wall 0-2500w 2010 NC State Record No Wall 0-2500w 2009 NC State Record No Wall 0-24" 2009 NC State Record No Wall Hardcore 0-24" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hdorre Posted April 28, 2010 Report Share Posted April 28, 2010 So just to make sure im 100% positive that i understand this If running the amps strapped... I should buy a sub that is D1 and wire it in series? Correct? I'm pretty sure you'd get a dual 1 and wire it up to single 2. Hook up the positive to the master amp and negative to slave amp. After that, you would add a jumper. This would only work if the amps can be linked or strapped at 2 ohms On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said: On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said: It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15 LMFAO so true Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build) Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium 2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power My Official Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cactushginge Posted January 3, 2018 Report Share Posted January 3, 2018 It shouldn't be a problem I have been running 2 Alpine PDX1-600's to one 15" MA Audio Hard Kore Dual Coil driver for about 5 years. I didn't realize that duel coil speakers were set up that way so you could change from 4 Ohms to 2 Ohms, so I bought 2 amps and daisy chained the same signal from first amp to second. Both amps take 2 channels in and speaker output is mono on each so I ran one amp to each coil. They may be a little weak for the sub I am using, but is still real clean and much more than I need while sitting inside the wagon. I run a PDX-4.150 to drive 4 full range speakers on the same system. In the second picture you can see where the red RCA cable goes from 1st amp output into input of the second amp. I had the driver out because I had busted the first box and was putting in the new box. I took a picture because it looked pretty wild sitting in the seat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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