talgar Posted May 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2010 Did you run the system with the car off????If so thats why it wouldnt start. Not the second time. The car had been sitting for about 1.5 hours before I went back out and it was dead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainzPlanetz Posted May 25, 2010 Report Share Posted May 25, 2010 Not the second time. The car had been sitting for about 1.5 hours before I went back out and it was dead. Maybe after like an hour or two take a DMM and test the resting voltage of the battery before you try to start the car... Quote ¿ǝɯɐƃ ǝɥʇ Trolls never learn............ All BS aside, If I see one more comment in here that is NOT about the pre-sale, I will start the vacations. And that includes the trolls feeding the trolls. YOU THE ONE THAT SOUND LIKE A OGER AND HUMPBACK/TROLLS? Add "SMDLIFER" on Xbox LIVE to play with other SMD members. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted May 25, 2010 Report Share Posted May 25, 2010 ya the amp should not be on all the time. until you get it fixed you should unplug the remote wire on the amp when you leave your car. this way you wont damage your battery any more by draining it(your battery looses life every time it is drained). a pain in the ass i know but itll save you time and money on a new battery. sadly, half the time these "pros" dont know shit. or they just dont care so they mess up. learn how to do it yourself and save yourself a lot of money next time. Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
talgar Posted May 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2010 ya the amp should not be on all the time. until you get it fixed you should unplug the remote wire on the amp when you leave your car. this way you wont damage your battery any more by draining it(your battery looses life every time it is drained). a pain in the ass i know but itll save you time and money on a new battery. sadly, half the time these "pros" dont know shit. or they just dont care so they mess up. learn how to do it yourself and save yourself a lot of money next time. I only had him install it because I purchased the sub/amp at the store and I needed a certified installer to install it to retain my warranty. I hope to have it fixed today though. I'll let you know what the issue was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magusmarcus Posted May 25, 2010 Report Share Posted May 25, 2010 With a 1000 watt amp, you don't need a bigger alternator just yet. Do the Big 3 in 1/0 gauge and add a 2nd battery close to where the amp is installed. Make sure your grounds are good (to the frame). If the battery up front is questionable, replace that as well. With all that done, monitor your voltage, if you are still getting too much voltage drop, then think about a better alternator. I agree... For the stuff that are not working, Check the fuse, switches and relays... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwz Posted May 25, 2010 Report Share Posted May 25, 2010 (edited) When I first bought my car, I had an old Kenwood headunit (well, like 3 years old)... I installed my system, everythings goin good for a couple months. Next thing you know my car starts dying. I drove around w/o my faceplate on to *charge the battery*, and realized in an hour or so that when the radio was off, the amps still stayed on. I replaced my headunit, and problem solved. It happens I guess lol. Edited May 25, 2010 by dwz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cubs_fan0718 Posted May 25, 2010 Report Share Posted May 25, 2010 That "Pro" must of done the Remote Loop Trick, and by that i mean taking and hooking it up on the 12+ on ur amp and then plugging the other wire in the remote spot. if that is the case i would make them pay for a new battery. Quote 06 Impala SSKenwood Excelon DDX593 Ampere Audio 150.4 Ampere Audio 5K1 XS D4700 (front)Mechman 320a Alt. w/ Big 3 Lots of Second Skin Damplifier Under Construction for 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
talgar Posted May 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2010 That "Pro" must of done the Remote Loop Trick, and by that i mean taking and hooking it up on the 12+ on ur amp and then plugging the other wire in the remote spot. if that is the case i would make them pay for a new battery. I took it in today to get it looked at and they said that it was because I have no remote switch on the stock HU, so they have now attached it to my AUX power. It seems likes it's staying for now, but it still doesn't seem right. The sub 'pops' whenever the amp turns off and then comes back on 15 seconds later for a few more seconds. I'm going to get my TV installed sooner than expected and hopefully this will fix it. As far as making them pay for a new battery, I don't even know where to begin... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted May 26, 2010 Report Share Posted May 26, 2010 of course the stock hu has a remote turn on. thats how it knows when to turn on. why the fuck didnt they do it right the 1st time when anyone would have come back after there battery died. if some one did something that stupid to my car, i would sit in the back seat while they work on my car and make them explain everything they are doing. sorry, stupid shops piss me off. the pop could be a bad ground. could be feedback from the ignition. not really sure, ive heard explanations before, i just forgot exactly what they said lol. Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
talgar Posted May 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2010 of course the stock hu has a remote turn on. thats how it knows when to turn on. why the fuck didnt they do it right the 1st time when anyone would have come back after there battery died. if some one did something that stupid to my car, i would sit in the back seat while they work on my car and make them explain everything they are doing. sorry, stupid shops piss me off. the pop could be a bad ground. could be feedback from the ignition. not really sure, ive heard explanations before, i just forgot exactly what they said lol. Is the pop dangerous for my equipment? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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