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@getlocivic That was to show how well the dynamat keeps the sound in the car -> and no rattle. It contains the sound very well, and as soon as the door/window is opened, the sound just flies out because it's not dissipating into the sheet metal. EDIT: Just to add on that point, you can listen to music as loud as you want without disturbing neighbors or people at stoplights or in the streets. But then when you want to blare your shit, roll the windows down, and it flows directly outand it almost seems like it accelerates the sound waves. It's actually much louder inside the car even with the windows open. Sound deadener is a must for proper sound quality. @ FroznBeavrBALLs Thank you very much man!

Sup Yall. See the title for the equipment in the car.. Using an Alpine CDE-102 headunit. EQ flat/loudness off. I ran RF 12ga speaker wire to the front doors. Only running 1 alpine component set, bridged to an MRP-F300. There are no rear speakers yet. I have Dynamat Xtreme to all 4 doors, the rear deck, and the whole trunk.That includes all 4 sides of the trunk and rear deck. I have a new Alpine Type-R 12" swr-1243d pushin 450w in my first self-made 1242d-alpine-specs ported box tuned to 36hz with 12ga speaker wire. Using an RF 4ga wiring kit with a separate distribution block. All connections are crimped and properly soldered. System tuned with Decaf test tones. Using a blue Stinger VoltMeter to keep track of the voltage... Still using stock electrical - hoping to upgrade the alt + big 3 + Kinetik batteries. Enjoy http://vimeo.com/29196710

http://www.hotnewhip.../21178-thursday I came across the Weekend not too long ago, and I think they're gonna get big IMO. I ran across this mixtape from The Weekend which I have to admit has a lot better sound mastering than the other songs they've released thus far. Check it out, it has high SQ and very little clipping! Note: 320kbps CBR, so you might have to re-encode the songs to 256kbps or so in order to play on some headunits. I use winLAME!

turn the knob?

I had a pair of 1242d's and the new 1243d's are DEFINITELY louder and hit the lows better/smoother. Not to mention it does 600w RMS instead of 500w. That and the FS is 27-33hz instead of the old 33-36hz. And the magnet is more shallow.

my boat-like 300m definitely sounds better tuned with the windows cracked open. still pretty loud with the windows down! i'm tuned at 36hz. at the same time my buddy with a jeep grand cherokee, his system is louder with the windows closed.

them pesky rules are back at it!

Make sure your EQ on your headunit is flat. Make sure loudness is off. Make sure HPF is set on the headunit if applicable. Make sure LPF is set properly on the mono amp. Make sure your ground point is perfect... No, seatbelt bolts do not count as perfect points. Nor do points that are unsanded. If you sanded it and it's gray and not shiny, sand more. Make sure you set your gains on your amp with a good test tone. I use Decaf's in his sticky'd thread in the Tunez forum section. You must use the RMS chart. Keep in mind that you should have optimal voltage to tune, and make sure your car is RUNNING and the speaker leads are unplugged. Obviously, remove the speaker leads while the car is off. Don't take too long or your voltage may drop if you have a system that takes the power mine does. Never use bass boost of any sort. Ever. And keep in mind a lot of songs that have clipping will cause clipping on your amps, so turn down the volume accordingly. Just a little clipping can get multiplied by quite a bit. If you STILL have clipping, then use your multimeter to turn down the voltage by using the RMS chart until you don't see the clipping light. If your voltage reads 30.0 ac volts -> SQUARED (multiply by itself) -> divide that number in half -> you should get 450 volts. So if the RMS chart isn't handy, just use a little calculator. Since you have the multiply the ac volts by itself, increases in that number will increase exponentially. For example.... 25.0 volts SQUARED / 2 = 315.5 watts .... 26.0 volts SQUARED / 2 = 338.0 watts While ... 31.0 volts SQUARED / 2 = 480.5 watts .... 32.0 volts SQUARED / 2 = 512watts.. @ 31-32 the watts increased by 32 while with 25-26 the volts only increased 23 VOLTS the higher the ac volts the bigger the increase

Great thanks for your advice.. I'll go through those steps for sure. It would be a bummer cause I didn't get a service plan on the 4-channel for some reason.. Thanks a lot for your help. Ill let ya know if it's the amp after all and if I could use your Pioneer :-)

There were little metal pieces on the inside of the RCA jack on the headunit. I bent them so that they hug the pin better, cause they seemed to be loose. Jconn, if I measured the voltage coming from the headunit, by using a multimeter on the RCA's, and they were the same, could the RCA's still be bad? And to everyone here.. is it possible for it to be an internal headunit or amp problem? It's gettin difficult to diagnose. Just so you know I already replaced the left speaker set with a spare I had. Same problem. Hopefully the crossover I changed out was good too.

I had an auto dimming heavy duty one but it snapped after coating the trunk and rear deck with dynamat. I had 2 alpine type-r 12"s running 500w RMS each in a ported box tuned @ ~40hz. So, I just got a cheap plastic one. And it still rattled, put a small piece of dynamat where it hangs, and now the tar is in between the pieces of metal, keeping it pretty tight and there's no rattling anymore.

I used an 80hz tone... do you have suggestions for what I should be using instead? As for the RCA's, the issue with the RCA's is actually in the headunit. One channel wasn't holding in the pin properly so I used some tweezers to bend them so its tight against the pin. I have a bunch of extra's though. I'm using an Alpine CDE-102 headunit. But I opened it up to check the solder points, so I can't have it serviced under the Best Buy service plan. I'll have to wait til they let me simply replace it. If anything, which RCA's do you think are better? Or are they about the same? I was using these, but changed to kicker.. I ended up getting these cause I was paranoid about one of the set, but they're good now that I found out it was the headunit. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_16508_Rockford-Fosgate-RFIT-20.html?utm_source=froogle&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=froogle I ended up getting these and was too lazy to change. http://www.kicker.com/signal_cable X2 X125 2CH I'm using the 2CH RCA on the F/R on the headunit, and then I split them with kicker y-splitters @ the 4-channel amp

My tweeters are coming from right next to the side mirrors, facing straight out. I'm going to angle them towards the rear view mirror tomorrow. When listening in the passenger seat, it still sounds louder from the right side. But then again, since the dash and steering wheel are in the way, the left tweeter could possibly be not hitting the left side of the passenger side. I wanna clarify that the difference in volume isn't tremendous, but it's noticeable to my ears. I've checked my RCA's, and one of them has a minor short at the headunit so I bent it and kept it in place with duct tape. It's pretty solid. If I check my RCA's again, and one of them is bad, would that mean the gain would need to be higher for channels 1/2 in result? As for the polarity, when sitting in the passenger seat, I guess I can try switching the polarity of the right speaker since the sound seems like it's coming from the door (hints of out of phase). However it could also sound like that cause the highs aren't coming in from the left thanks to the driver dash and angle of the tweeters. If the RCA's are good, and the phase is good, would L and R theoretically be sending the same levels of volume to the speakers no matter what?

What's up yall I have a 4-channel amp (Alpine F300) that is running bridged, powering a set of Alpine Type-S 6.5" components. The output is the same on each channel, but the right sounds louder than the left. I found out that the tweeter is facing an elevated part of the dash which would prevent it from dispersing sound properly. While on the passenger side, the dash isn't elevated and it flows down and sounds great. I'm planning on changing the directions of the tweeters to the rear view mirror instead of straight out from the door (they're in the factory locations). My question is, if the amp is outputting the same voltage and speakers sound different, is it the speakers that could be the issue? OR is it possible for amps to get damaged to where they still send the same amount of voltage, but the volume actually being sent to the speakers isn't the same? I'm wondering if my amp is damaged and one of the channels is not as loud as the other. Like.... if one channel was out, lets say channel 1, and 1/2 and 3/4 were @ the same voltage /w a test tone, and the knobs are visually in the same spots, could I still experience a lower volume in channels 1/2? Thanks for your help